Construction Begins!!!

[IraRat]

Those shears in the window are so European... No one over here puts such things in their windows...

Mike...

What's a shear? A curtain?

And Greg--congratulations on what you've done so far. Also happy to see the glue expanding out of that vertical frame, because that's sure as heck what MINE looks like now.

Also, when I glued one of the galley walls together, I had it resting on a newspaper, and of course, the newspaper stuck. I had to tear it off, except for Ester Schwartz's small picture which remained, who had just celebrated her 50th wedding anniversary.

[The R/C Man]

Thanks Kevin!

Well it looks like the link works now.
IraRat,

Thanks. I just had to get off my butt. I did manage router both the top and bottom of the floor. Now I have to make a trip into town to get some spay on undercoating and some more gorilla glue. Boy am I excited about permanently attaching the sides.... I do need to go to the wood shop and rip down some 2x4's for the cross braces and door framing.

Andrew,

I think I am still going to go with the 12" wheels. They will spin slower and should prolong the life of the bearings. Since I am going to fiberglass the entire TD fabricating some fenders shouldn't be a problem......

[IraRat]

What kind of wood are you going to use for the spars? I'm at the crossroads of a cost dilemma. Poplar is a FORTUNE down here in south Florida.

Bugs we have--wood we don't, because not too many species grow in salt water. (See my latest post in the construction forum.)

Also, do you plan on putting up your spars, and THEN cutting your interior skins around them? I changed my plans which will make for an easier and hopefully cleaner AND better build for me. Going flush to the interior skins with the spars, using hangers.

Also going with two .75 by 1.5 spar pieces glued together for each spar, making 1.5 inch square spars.

[The R/C Man]

For the spars I am just using the ripped down 2x4's. I am not even sure what type wood it is. My biggest concern was making sure they are all 1" thick to allow for the insulation... It is very cost effective and it seems plenty strong.....

I am going to put the spars up first then the interior. (this will also allow me to wire everything) I am not going to cut around the spars just make the skins up flush with them. Then the ceiling will go on. That will hide some inperfections on the sides. When it is all done corner molding will be used to hide the rest and give it a clean look.......

My framming and spars are all 1x1 1/2"

[angib]

What's a shear? A curtain?

I think Mike'll find that 'shears' are scissors or tools for taking the fleece off sheep....

I'm guessing he uses 'sheers' to describe net curtains. And the place to really see them is Russia - every window used to have them, presumably to stop anyone (like the KGB) seeing in. The strangest place they put them was on the windows of buses!

Andrew

[IraRat]

Ooooh--be careful correcting Mike's spelling. He's sensitive about that stuff!

Greg--you're doing 1" insulation because of 1 by framing? I know 3/4 is standard, and when you double it up you get 1 1/2, but I didn't know 1" was standard. I DO know that it's not preferable to have a void between the insulation and interior wall.

I wish someone would give me an answer about the lumber for the spars. I want to do my hatch spar today, and daylight's starting to burn.

[SteveH]

I wish someone would give me an answer about the lumber for the spars. I want to do my hatch spar today, and daylight's starting to burn.

IraRat,

I know you will get several opinions about the hatch spar, but I'll just tell you that on my teardrop, I combined a poplar spar ( 1 1/2 X 3/4") with the galley bulkhead, and it seems plenty strong.

If your design does not allow the combination with the bulkhead, I'd at least go for some sort of hardwood 2 X 2, actually measured 1 1/2" square.

[Bobgorilla]

shear is part of nautical terms as in : shear off! or shearwater

[The R/C Man]

IraRat,

I believe the pink foam insulation is available in a 1" thickness. If not I will double up the 1/2" stuff.....

After I install the insulation it will be on to the wiring....

[The R/C Man]

Hey all!

Well I rubberized the bottom of the floor. When it's dry on the trailer it goes and up with the walls....





Why are these pics not loading? Grrrrrr...

[Kevin A]

Hey all!

Well I rubberized the bottom of the floor. When it's dry on the trailer it goes and up with the walls....





Why are these pics not loading? Grrrrrr...

Greg,

If you change this word http://tnttt.com/album_page.php?pic_id=1629 to this pic
before you post it, your pictures should show up.

[The R/C Man]

Thanks dude it worked....

[IraRat]

I wish someone would give me an answer about the lumber for the spars. I want to do my hatch spar today, and daylight's starting to burn.

IraRat,

I know you will get several opinions about the hatch spar, but I'll just tell you that on my teardrop, I combined a poplar spar ( 1 1/2 X 3/4") with the galley bulkhead, and it seems plenty strong.

If your design does not allow the combination with the bulkhead, I'd at least go for some sort of hardwood 2 X 2, actually measured 1 1/2" square.

Thanks, Steve. I'll have to take a look. I don't mind buying poplar for this, but did you use poplar for the rest of the spars too? I have to buy insulation this coming weekend, plus the spars, plus a brad nailer--so it's going to be an expensive weekend.

And Greg, what was that stuff you used in the can? You used that instead of the roofing asphalt? That looks a heck of a lot easier to work with.

[toypusher]

IraRat,

You could us ash in place of the poplar. I don't know if there is a price differenct or not. Have a bunch that I bought 'rough sawn' and planned it down myself. It has most of the same properties as white oak has.

Kerry

[The R/C Man]

IraRat,

It is a rubberized coating used for the underside of cars. It is supposed to repel water etc. It was only $2.50 a can. I used two and that barely covered it. Three would have been better..... You can get it in automotive stores......

Oh yes, it was very easy to spray. Start to finish maybe 15 minutes....