Proposed Dual Use of my Utility Trailer

[scottgu]

hi:

I have a Utility Trailer (not an enclosed cargo trailer). I have though about using it to build a TD. However I still need a utility trailer from time to time. I was thinking that I would build a TD that I can put on the utility trailer. When I need to haul stuff with the trailer I can take the TD off. I have attached a few drawings of what I am thinking about. The trailer is raited for 900 KG so weight shouldn't be a problem. One drawback I see is the height of the side access door. I will have to build some steps for sure. Anyways take a look. Let me know what you think. I look forward to the feedback.

[bgordon]

Hi ScottGU,

Welcome to the forum. Hope you get inspired here.

Your project is certainly doable. You'll probably have to plan carefully though. Getting the details right is always the hard part.

There are a number of issues you should look at. First, in my opinion, is thinking how you will get the hull on and off the trailer. It's probably impractical to think you'll get a friend and simply lift it. These trailers are small, but will be too heavy to lift, even if you build light.

The side door is quite small, just as you mentioned in your post. You could, of course, look at an alternative design, like the Winter Warrior/Kampmaster/Escape Hatch. If you don't know what it looks like, here is a picture. (The entrance door is at the back).



If you are still young, then crawling into the trailer might not be a problem for you. Only you can decide that.

Also take a few cardboard boxes and cut and paste a mockup on the trailer. That will give you an idea of what actual dimensions look like. Then you'll see real quickly if you can fit through the door!

We'll talk about other ideas as your plans come together.

Keep well.

[Jason and Amanda]

You could put skid plates on the bottom of the tear then to get it off the utility trailer you could just lift up on the tongue till it slides off then to get it back on you could use a ratcheting strap or a wench.

[angib]

I bet that one strong person could drag a teardrop body onto or off a trailer - the main problems are (a) stopping the trailer from moving and (b) getting a decent grip on the removable body, in both directions.

Scott, you need to think about how your trailer will work. Either:

- you put the bed level with the bottom of the doors, in which case you'll need to build a higher trailer body, if you're still going to have sitting headroom over the bed; or

- if you put the bed on the floor, like a normal teardrop, you can build it the 'normal' 4 feet high but getting in and out will be really hard.

Andrew

[bgordon]

:thinking:

You could put skid plates on the bottom of the tear then to get it off the utility trailer you could just lift up on the tongue till it slides off then to get it back on you could use a ratcheting strap or a wench.

Jason,

Thanks, I had a good laugh with this one. I suppose you could use a wench (see dictionary explanation below), but I think using a wrench might be slightly easier.

wench –noun
1. a country lass or working girl: The milkmaid was a healthy wench.
2. Usually Facetious. a girl or young woman.
3. Archaic. a strumpet.

Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1)
Based on the Random House Unabridged Dictionary, © Random House, Inc. 2006.

[bgordon]

Either:

- you put the bed level with the bottom of the doors, in which case you'll need to build a higher trailer body, if you're still going to have sitting headroom over the bed; or

- if you put the bed on the floor, like a normal teardrop, you can build it the 'normal' 4 feet high but getting in and out will be really hard.

Andrew

Or you could do something like this (below). Now THAT would be interesting...

[bobhenry]

We have gone down this road before and I seemed to be one of the few that feel this is relatively easy and practical.
My very first teardrop , " Eggbert "was built on a torsion box of sorts. 2 sheets of osb ( top and bottom) with a 2x3 ( 1 1/2" x 2 1/2") frame around it . I had 3 cross joists and filled the entire void with 5 layers of 1/2" foamboard. The osb sides were screwed directly to the 2x3 rim. The flat bottom allows this type of floor to be rolled off and on a trailer floor with the aid of a few pieces of pvc pipe. ( The bigger the pipe the easier it will roll) Build a small cube to store the body on when not in use then back the trailer to the cube lift first one end then the other and install the pipe and roll the body onto the trailer. If you have the angle iron short rail on the utility trailer body consider making the area by the door removable then when needed as a utility trailer simply bolt in the removable rail this will eliminate the too tall door. Just a bunch of random dumb thoughts have fun however ya build it

Bob

[Wimperdink]

We have gone down this road before and I seemed to be one of the few that feel this is relatively easy and practical.
Bob

I'm with Bob on this.

This is commercially done and practical for those with not much parking space. Or only now and then need for a utility trailor. The following is a pic of mine. If your building your own, put some hard plastic skids on the bottom, put a fancy hook on the back, strap it to a tree or solid something, and slowly pull the trailer out from under it.

When you want it back on, I recommend using a boat winch bolted to the tounge, as opposed to a wench or a wrench. {though wenches are more fun}

[Jason and Amanda]

haha ya i meant winch (duh) I have days where spelling does not wake up with me in the morning.

[scottgu]

hey there...

Thanks for the encouragement and great ideas. I had already decided not to use my existing utility trailer because it would make the TD too tall. I was looking at buying a new utility trailer from Canadian Tire or Home Depot. The problem was that any of the new ones that were the size I wanted were between $800 and $1300.00. But yesterday on halifax.kijiji.ca I found an old (1979) lionel tent trailer for $300.00 that I will use the base to make my TD. After I dismantle the tent trailer I will have a deck that measures 76" x 130". It has a 3way fridge, propane stove and funace. I will have to get them checked out before I try to use them. Probably just use fridge as DC or 110. I don't see how I can use the fridge on propane in a TD. I'm not sure about the furnace. I don't think it will really get cold enough here to need it.

[brian_bp]

I realize that this is off-track from the dual-purpose topic, but I noticed this comment:

...I don't see how I can use the fridge on propane in a TD...

I understand the concern: the propane refrigerator needs venting and access for the rear, but in a teardrop galley this would be against an interior wall. The venting area would be a cavity between the refrigerator and the back wall of the sleeping space. If the galley is sealed from the sleeping space, then maybe the refrigerator could be left reasonably removable from its mounting space, without needing a great seal around it.

For venting, the upper vent would need to be out the top (like most current RVs) or at the top of the side wall (some ducting required), and the lower vent could come in through the floor. A fan might be needed for assistance.

Just a thought. I doubt it's worth the effort, but if people can work window-mount air conditioners into the galley/sleeping space wall of their teardrops, a refrigerator should be possible, too.