Attaching the windows to the teardrop

[lmh222]

Well, I haven't quite gotten this far in my construction yet but I'm a bit nervous about attaching the windows to my tear.

I bought the JC whitney horizontal sliders -

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Sear ... =ZX862313B

The metal fitting that they come with is made for walls that are about 2" thick and I hate the way that it looks anyway even if I were to cut it down.

The windows alone are just about exactly the depth of my walls so my plan has been to just glue them on with automotive windshield adhesive and then use trim inside just to cover up the "raw" edges" around the hole. The windsheild adhesive has sounded like a good idea because you never hear of windsheilds just falling out - the only catch is that my teardrop will be all wood and I'm not exactly sure that the windsheild adhesive will stick to the wooden frame correctly.

I certainly don't want my large, heavy, dangerous, and expensive windows falling out while I'm flying down the highway. Does anyone have any suggestions? I just don't see a good way to use "mechanical" fasteners. Is there a better adhesive to use? What have other people done?

Thanks for your input.

Lindsey

PS - I've updated my build journal recently and I'm making pretty good progress on my tear. www.teardrop.myphotoalbum.com

[madjack]

...I am using a similar window from http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/trailer ... html#10238 and like you I really don't like the clamp ring supplied with the windows so I am going to use the EVIL BLACK STUFF around the edge oh the window frame and push it into the hole and use a couple of screws thru the top and bottom of the window frame to make sure it stays. The windows I have, have screw holes in the frame for this purpose, if yours don't then just drill a couple...a dab of black frame paint and you wil be unable to see the screw heads and will get a nice flush fit instead of it sticking out if you used the butyl tape like they recommended (tjtrailers)
madjack

p.s. these windows are available from any Red Neck Trailer Supply distributor

[SteveH]

MadJack,

I used the same windows that you are using, and also didn't like or trust the trim rings to hold them in. I drilled holes around the frame, installed them with aluminum colored silicone and screws. I did install the trim rings but feel they are just cosmetic.

[ahjones3]

I've been using PL Polyurethane Premium Construction Adhesive for all sorts of things. I have no doubt it would hold your windows in. If you can hide the glue with trim, all the better. It might be kind of messy, but you can clean it up with mineral spirits if you work kind of fast. I get it at HD.
Al.

[madjack]

...Steve I just noticed that those window have increased in price by about 20 bucks since I bought mine a couple of months ago ...who sez the cost of fuel is not affecting everything we buy/use...damn speculators
madjack

[Jolly Roger]

Hi fellas. I'm new here... in fact this is my first post. I had a great dilemma finding the windows I wanted. In fact, I went so far as to scrap the entire Idea I had before. I went with ship port holes. It took a while to find the ones I wanted, but when I did, it gave me an entire theme to aspire to. If you'd like to see what I did, take a look... http://www.laghosts.com/teardrop.htm

BTW, madjack, I live in SW la and tow my teardrop with my maroon Aztek also!

[darockrider]

Hi Lindsay,

Checked out the photos and looks very good so far. In my first teardrop I didn't have proper trim rings for the windows so I did what many here have already said, that is attach the windows from the outside with screws. I used approx 14 screws around the frame to securely hold the window and keep it sealed. For waterproofing I used a rolled non hardening sealing tape that is available from most all good RV places. It is used around windows, doorframes and roofvents. It is a sticky gooey substance but it works extremely well. It should not dry out and crack as some sealing compounds do!

Noticed from your pics a large propane? tank with the Golden Eagle Logo that looks like ULTRAMAR, are you located in Canada? I am in Winnipeg and no ULTRAMAR here but as I am originally from the east coast it is very familiar to me! Just curious.

Cheerio and good luck wit the project. I am very close to completion on trailer number 2 and I will be very happy to see it complete!

Gerald

[madjack]

Hi fellas. I'm new here... in fact this is my first post. I had a great dilemma finding the windows I wanted. In fact, I went so far as to scrap the entire Idea I had before. I went with ship port holes. It took a while to find the ones I wanted, but when I did, it gave me an entire theme to aspire to. If you'd like to see what I did, take a look... http://www.laghosts.com/teardrop.htm

BTW, madjack, I live in SW la and tow my teardrop with my maroon Aztek also!

...welcome to the board J.R. I think another member is from L.C. name of "Nubwon". It's good to see others from La. here and ain't that sumthin' 'bout the Aztek...sure is a small world
madjack

[asianflava]

I went with ship port holes. It took a while to find the ones I wanted, but when I did, it gave me an entire theme to aspire to.

Woody and Ira will be jealous of your port holes.

[IraRat]

Hi fellas. I'm new here... in fact this is my first post. I had a great dilemma finding the windows I wanted. In fact, I went so far as to scrap the entire Idea I had before. I went with ship port holes. It took a while to find the ones I wanted, but when I did, it gave me an entire theme to aspire to. If you'd like to see what I did, take a look... http://www.laghosts.com/teardrop.htm

BTW, madjack, I live in SW la and tow my teardrop with my maroon Aztek also!

Hey Roger--glad to meet another porthole nut like myself.

I stayed away from the "real" heavy duty portholes because of expense and weight. And like you, because of the spigot size (required depth). So I found an inexpensive alternative where I'm going to mount two for each door…one on each side:



I'm replacing the exterior glass with plexi or similar, and the interior with a screen. Plus, gotta make a "collar" in the inside of the door, so you don't see wood framing and stuff.

It's gonna be fun installing them, but man, am I going to take my TIME!

[IraRat]

I went with ship port holes. It took a while to find the ones I wanted, but when I did, it gave me an entire theme to aspire to.

Woody and Ira will be jealous of your port holes.

We have porthole envy, but can he match these drawer knobs?




(The ones I ordered are white, though. Not pink--cause I'm ALL man!)

[lmh222]

Hey guys, thanks for all the info!

Ira, I also bought one of those porthole windows from eBay. I'm planning to put in on my door. Now that I have it though, it certainly doesn't look very waterproof. I'll put some putty on it but if it gives me too much trouble, I may just caulk it and make it strictly for light.


I guess maybe what I'll do is mount the windows with just glue and wait for them to dry then test the strength (carefully). If they don't feel like their absolutely completely permanently stuck, I'll put a few screws in also. I do hate to mess up the exterior trim with screws - they look so nice the way they are. That is always an option though.

Thanks!

Lindsey

[IraRat]

Hey guys, thanks for all the info!

Ira, I also bought one of those porthole windows from eBay. I'm planning to put in on my door. Now that I have it though, it certainly doesn't look very waterproof. I'll put some putty on it but if it gives me too much trouble, I may just caulk it and make it strictly for light.

The way I look at it, with a rubber gasket and clear silicon sealer, it's going to be a lot more waterproof than a lot of other options:

It just sits flush on the exterior, and that's about as safe as you can get. I'm going to cut the hole just SLIGHTLY larger than the GLASS. With a gasket and and the right sealer, nothing's getting in around the outer edges. (Plus I'm mounting onto varnished birch.)

If you're concerned about water getting in around the opening diameter, well, mine seems to be closing real tight. But again, a simple rubber gasket glued on there and I think it will be fine.

For 22 bucks, I can make it work.

MY main fear is that the "brass" holds up. Once I make those cuts, that's it.

[angib]

It just sits flush on the exterior

Just for the record, it will have been designed to sit on the inside of a boat's or ship's hull so that the turnbuckles are on the inside and so the deadlight bit opens inwards.

But I don't see a reason it can't work the other way - it will open from the outside, but what will they do - climb in and steal your mattress?

Andrew

[mikeschn]

it will have been designed
Andrew

Why future perfect?