Wooden Chassis

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Wooden Chassis

Postby CaptainKram » Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:36 pm

Hi All, also a Newbie, so sorry for the repeated question.

Like Derick, I also seem to recall some plans for a wooden chassis. I'm thinking of putting together either a Wild Goose or a Kampmaster type Tear, done as a Wooody. :shock: Yeah, I know, pretty ambitious for a first timer, but I'm a pretty good carpenter and a good friend is a pro cabinet maker! 8)

Has anyone attempted the wooden frame, or remember where the plans or pics might be located?

BTW, I took a look at Rolly's Woody and was inspired! Outstanding work! :thumbsup: :applause: :applause:
"A woman drove me to drink, and I didn't even have the decency to thank her." ~W. C. Feilds
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Postby madjack » Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:00 pm

CK, there have been several attempts at this...some successful, some notso...start by looking at the most successful attempt so far...a very nicely done one at that... profile of dwgriff1 ...keep in mind to be very careful about selecting your wood, if this is the way you choose to go....
madjack 8)
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Postby CaptainKram » Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:49 pm

madjack wrote:CK, there have been several attempts at this...some successful, some notso...start by looking at the most successful attempt so far...a very nicely done one at that... profile of dwgriff1 ...keep in mind to be very careful about selecting your wood, if this is the way you choose to go....
madjack 8)


Thanks for that, madjack. :thumbsup: Read thru the Frameless And All Wood thread...exactly what I was looking for. :) What do think about using that type of rig with a 6X12 TT (strength, weight, etc.)?
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Postby madjack » Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:18 pm

CK, built properly, the size really doesn't matter...for me personally, I want at least a minimal steel frame under the camper to connect the body, axle, tongue together...if you click on the "Design Library" link in the Index at the top of this page and scroll down to the Superleggera you will see what I mean by "minimal"...
madjack 8)

p.s. I build on a full perimeter frame made of 1x2x3/16th steel channel with a "Y" frame tongue of 2" tube, which make it easier for me to add corner jacks and a hitch styled bike carrier to the rear of the camper...since my floor is just a sheet of 1/2" 11ply cabinet grade ply attached to this, it is probably just as light a a no steel, wood frame and makes me feel much happier/safer....MJ
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Postby CaptainKram » Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:33 pm

OK...MJ ;) :) I'll give it a look. Right now, I'm off to Carney's Pub (favorite watering hole) for a few cold ones. 8) Talk to you soon.

CK
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:40 pm

Image

Or this one which was my idea, but the resident engineer never said if it was any good or not...

Image

Mike...

P.S. Andrew, any thoughts?
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby dwgriff1 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:26 pm

There can be plenty of strength with all wood tear if it is done right. Several have said that it won't save any time, and I agree.

In my case, I worked with wood professionally, and it seemed logical method for me.

The issue with mine is that the tongue is only 1" thick oak where it comes out from the body, and could break there. That 1" thick oak is a glue lam 4" wide down the middle.

You can see my solution in my album. I think that is over kill, but I am not an engineer.

I have pulled it over 6000 miles and it has worked flawlessly.

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Postby angib » Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:23 pm

Mike, I think those OSB laminated beams are way, way over the top - unless it's a design for a cargo deck trailer. A teardrop body provides itself with all the support it needs and the T-shape chassis in your graphic is all the chassis it needs, so I think all those beams are superfluous.

I guess I can't keep saying often enough that house building techniques and trailer building techniques are not the same and it's not necessary to build a 'floor' to sit a teardrop body on.

I would like to see some big warnings on posting Dave's (dwgriff1's) teardrop in a part-built condition. Most importantly the photo doesn't show the tongue braces from the front of the body to the tongue that were added after the body was skinned - they are the main thing holding the tongue and coupler in place.

Image

I also still wince when I see the step change in the size of the wood tongue where it joins the body. Because of Dave's design and the tongue brace, he has 'got away' with this (as I see it - he would word it differently, I'm sure!), but it's still a very undesirable design detail that I wouldn't want to see anyone else copy.

Building a Kampmaster without a metal frame is a tall order. I think it could be done by making some diagonals to connect the front of the A-frame to the upper sides of the body - so there would be upper and lower A-frames where all four pieces met at the coupler. But this would be very complex to design (those diagonals slope in plan and elevation) and some clever epoxy joints would be needed.

Alternatively Mike's laminated beams could be used as A-frame members but I'm guessing they would need to be at least 12" high, so either the Kampmaster has only about 36" headroom inside or it gets jacked up in the air by those 12", neither of which is appealing.

Andrew

Edit: I see you managed to duplicate what I was writing, while I was writing it!
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Postby Jiminsav » Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:45 pm

I don't have a frame, and no one remembers..so it must be good. 8)

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Postby Steve_Cox » Wed Jul 23, 2008 7:46 pm

I remembered Jim, and gave you an honorable mention in the thread a couple of weeks ago about wood frames. :D
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Postby Jiminsav » Wed Jul 23, 2008 7:53 pm

Why thank you Steve..
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Postby CaptainKram » Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:52 am

Morning All,

Thanks for all the response. As usual, looks like I'm guilty of asking before looking. :oops: :) And a little overkill too, maybe. Do you think a "T" frame would be enough for a 7 X 12?

Jim, love the axles! 8) Where did you get them, and, again, do you think they'll be enough for a 7 X 12? :thinking:

FYI: I going for size for a couple of reasons. Foremost being that my honey Mary has never been camping before and sometimes get a little claustrophobic. I'll never get her into a 4 X 8! :roll: 2nd reason is it will be us and two dogs. Gotta have space for the 4 legged kids. ;) Weight (other than MPG!) isn't an issue. My tow vehicle is an '02 Avalanche.

CK
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:25 pm

Sounds like my requirements... 2 people and 2 dogs...

Check out the Generic ET for some ideas...

http://www.mikenchell.com/Generic_ET_Photo_Album/

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby caseydog » Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:39 pm

Jiminsav wrote:I don't have a frame, and no one remembers..so it must be good. 8)

Image


Yours seems to work more like the Uinbody design for cars.

Like Andrew said, you don't HAVE to build a frame, then a floor, and then the TD. If you build the TD as a "unibody" type of structure, then all you need to do is have a secure method of getting wheels under it, and a tongue to pull it.

I'm glad this thread was started, because it has me thinking in a whole new way about how to do my next TD.

CD
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Postby Jiminsav » Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:37 pm

CK, those are Dexter axles ordered for me by a buddy in the trailer business.
I'm sure any truck trailer place can order them for you, but it ain't easy...you have to fill in an engineering drawling of exactly what you want.
and yes, they will work fine for a larger trailer..mine is a 5X10. and the axles are 2000 lbs rated.
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