AXLE FOR 1954 BENROY

[TD_Dodger]

Hey guys im all done taking all the rust and pooring por 15 on my frame to prevent rust, pics will follow soon.

not im working on my axle. im thinking of just buying a new axle because the bolt pattern on my rim is a 6 lug, and also the bering on the inside wich i think is a seal looks like it was leaking. if i can be able to find the seals and bearings ill keep it but if not ill have to buy the axle new. does anyone know where i can get the bearings and seals and or a new axle? im in highland california.

[Johno]

I am going to take a guess that the axle and more specifically, the bearings used in the hub assembly are from some standard automotive brand that would have been popular during the early fiftys. My guess is if you will pull one of the hubs and look for some numbers on the race, you will be able to match it up and get replacements. A good NAPA shop could probably find it for you (hint, go during the middle of the day during a work week when they are not real busy). If not, then go online to some of the major outlets and see if you can make a match that way. The other thing is the six bolt pattern. I would want to be sure that this bolt pattern is something that I could get a replacement for today and not something that has been discontinued. And finally, the rusty axle, use a wire brush in a sander / grinder and it will come right off, be sure to wear safety glasses.

- John -

[Dale M.]

I agree with pretty much what Johno said.... Would almost bet 6 lug wheels are early Chevy...

A good "commercial" bearing supply may also be able to check the numbers on bearings and seals and the still may be available. Check local phone book for "bearing house"....

Hubs (drums) may be replaceable with something "modern" hubs that are a "popular" 5 bolt pattern... Also consider that you may be able to get custom wheels that fit the 6 bolt pattern or you can have hub (if its in good shape) redrilled and have new studs pressed in for "popular" 5 bolt pattern....

Lots of option... It all depends on how much time and effort you are willing to devote to the hubs/axle...

Dale

[jamesm]

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1950's axle also. I am replacing the seals and bearings and one of the inner races. When you pull the seal it should have a number on it as the bearings will also. The races have numbers stamped on the side sometimes so you can't see it till it is out. I went to a local clutch and brake supply house here and they removed and installed the new race for me (which I bought there) for free. I have been able to replace every part so far except the eletric brakes which were an old stle no longer used. I just bought new electric brake assenblies from etrailer.com for $63 per side. All said and done I will have about $250-300 into rebuilding the axle. But it has 12" electric brakes and I wanted the large brakes.

So a clutch and brake supply house should have all the suppies you need. You might have to bring the old hub in so they can "mic" it and see what size seal, bearing etc. you need.

Good luck...let us know how it comes out.

PS on the old trailers don't forget to rebuild the leaf spring shakle bolts.

James

[TD_Dodger]

"PS on the old trailers don't forget to rebuild the leaf spring shakle bolts" WICH ONE ARE THOSE

[kurtibm]

:thinking: WHICH ONE ARE THOSE

At the ends of each leaf spring. Grade 8 at least.
Check the bushings at the same time & replace if faulty. Lube at the time of re-assembly will eliminate/reduce squeaks; also, some lube between the leaves in the areas where they touch/rub on each other.

kurt

[jamesm]

:thinking: WHICH ONE ARE THOSE

At the ends of each leaf spring. Grade 8 at least.
Check the bushings at the same time & replace if faulty. Lube at the time of re-assembly will eliminate/reduce squeaks; also, some lube between the leaves in the areas where they touch/rub on each other.

kurt

Now they use plastic bushings with no lube and grade 8 bolts...no more grease zerks!

[kurtibm]

:thinking: WHICH ONE ARE THOSE

At the ends of each leaf spring. Grade 8 at least.
Check the bushings at the same time & replace if faulty. Lube at the time of re-assembly will eliminate/reduce squeaks; also, some lube between the leaves in the areas where they touch/rub on each other.

kurt

Now they use plastic bushings with no lube and grade 8 bolts...no more grease zerks!

Yep, nylon may be the way to go these days (I'd recommend against polyurethane) although rubber is still available & works well too.
There is an old tool that I used to have that looked like a chisel but was somewhat hollow with a zirk fitting allowing the chisel end to be driven between the leaves and then once in there, grease could be pumped in from one's grease gun to the chosen spot between the leaves.