More Epoxy issues/questions

[tonyj]

Different epoxies will flex and expand, but no epoxy that I know of is UV protected (or has sufficient UV protection). If you have coated your trailer with epoxy, you need to plan on storing it out of the sun (some type of cover), or coat it with varnish or automotive clear coat. Without some type of UV protection, even flexible epoxies will change color, degrade, and eventually crack. The epoxy protects the wood, the other methods protect the epoxy.

[Mary K]

Thanks Tony!

Here are the steps I have in mind..

1. Test/Practice applying epoxy on scrap wood.

2. Sand existing urethane from trim edges and skin

3. Mix epoxy and let it sit until it is thick????

4. Apply Epoxy to trim

5. Let cure

6. Sand and apply 2 coats of Urethane over epoxy.

Here is what I want to achieve.


I know I am being kind of a sissy about doing this epoxy crap, But I have no idea what I'm doing. It just makes me feel better to get some input from you guys.

Mk

[tonyj]

Your step three will be determined by the hardener you use--slow, medium, fast. Each gives you varying working time based on type and temperature. Otherwise, your plan looks good.

Epoxy is glue. It thickens when it sets up, and that time is determined by the hardener. You usually do not want to wait until it starts "thickening up" to start applying. You may want to apply several coats to create your "fillets" because a slow hardener that gives longer working time also allows the epoxy to spread and sag. A fast hardener will not spread and sag as much, but by the time it starts kicking off, you might not have time to apply it.

You may not need a large fillet, and one coat may provide what you need. If you do need a larger fillet, the only way to achieve it is multiple thin coats of epoxy alone, or by adding micro-balloons or wood flour to create a thicker paste. The trade off on thickeners like this is they are like wood putty--they don't take stain and they have color to them. If you need a fillet with filler in it, experiment on some scrap first, and preferably a piece that has the same finish as your trim. You may be able to mix your epoxy and add just enough wood filler to get the consistency you need for the fillet without creating a dark fillet that doesn't match the rest of your finish. I have a lot of fillets on my kayak that are almost transluscent, but had enough body to prevent spreading and sags.

And as I and others have suggested before, mix up small batches of epoxy at a time--only what you need, and in a shallow container. I use old microwave meal bowls and plates. Or use paper plates.

Bottom line--you have to do a little experimentation.

[Mary K]

Tony, Your the MAN!!

That don't sound to bad. See, I just needed words of wisdom and encouragement too to give me the confidence I need too feel good about doing this.

I'm thinking, because of high temps here, I should start with a medium hardener. And start practicing with that.


Tony, Thanks for taking the time to help me.


Mk

[tonyj]

Medium should do fine and allow you enough time to apply, and give a short enough cure time that you won't have to wait overnight to chech your progress.

Another couple of tips:

Don't try to hurry too much as you apply your epoxy, and don't try to do too much correcting as the epoxy cures--you end up creating more problems than the ones you fix.

Mask off close to the area you are working on and remove the tape before the epoxy sets up.

Sand between coats or before applying your poly or varnish for a good mechanical adhesion. Don't worry that the sanded epoxy looks like it will hide what is under it. As soon as you apply more epoxy or poly, the underlying surface shows through again. (My neighbors cringed with horror every time I demonstrated sanding a clear, mirror finish. They thought I was destroying it and were amazed none of the sanding showed when the next film of varnish was applied.)

After sanding, wipe down with lacquer thinner (not acetone). If you use a tack cloth, don't apply too much pressure as the residue from the tack cloth can contaminate the surface for the next coat of finish.

Wear disposable vinyl gloves (available in boxes of 50 pair at Walgreen's or Wal-Mart). Use apple cider vinegar to clean any epoxy from your skin or drips on the floor (before the epoxy sets).

Epoxy is a glue, but not like the paste you use in elementary school, so don't eat it, tempted as you may be!

[Mary K]

Okay, So fine....No Epoxy-stir-stick-sickles for desert. Bummer.


Great advice Tony. I have me a shopping list now.


I can get West Systems locally at West Marine Do you think this is okay? If I was covering the whole TD with epoxy I would use another brand, I have heard there are better brands out there (from you). But, I feel better knowing I can run out and get a different hardener, or filler if I need it.

Once again, Thanks,

Mk

[Steve_Cox]

MaryK,

Get the pump kit for the West Epoxy. They are reusable and you don't hafta clean them, just leave them on the containers of resin and hardener. Make small batches to start. After you get the pumps primed the first time it meters out just the right amount in a 1 to 1 pump ratio of resin and hardener. You will love it. There is nothing more fun than epoxy when it comes to sticky stuff.

[Mary K]

Thanks Steve. On that link I posted above, there is a video and I was happy to see they have the pumps that fit on the cans.


I am kinda looking forward to trying the epoxy stuff out.

I also could use it to glue my rope trim up on the inside. The Hot Glue I used to begin with has not fared well this hot summer. The rope has fallen down in a few spots.


Mk

[doug hodder]

MaryK....I'd checkout the user manual for West Systems. A wealth of info available there. 4 tears and 2 boats...I've not had any failure using West. Doug

[Mary K]

Thanks Doug, I did scan the links you posted on the Epoxy sticky. I will defiantly go back now and read the manual.


Mk

[Micro469]

Mary..If you are only going to use epoxy to do some fillets, buying a gallon can is overkill. You will have tons of it left. They have similar products out there in smaller quantities... Check out http://www.noahsmarine.com,go to Secure online ordering, and you will get a list of everything they sell. I just bought a container of 3m bubbles to do my fairing, I still have 1/2 can of epoxy left. Before I used Cabosil to thicken the epoxy to glue my moldings on, but it is hard to sand.

O.K., I could be talking through a hole in my hat......because I'm having problems too. Don't Listen To Me!!!!!!

[Mary K]

It's all good John. I'll take your advice. Luckily West Marine (Boating Store) here locally has West Systems on it shelf's and it comes by Quart. If I had to buy a Gallon of the stuff, I just as soon use duck tape to seal the cracks.

Mk

[toypusher]

Ya know that duct tape comes all kinds of different colors now???

[tonyj]

The quart of 105 with the small can of hardener will work fine. Ditto the recommendation on the pumps--you don't want to spend time and energy on measuring out the resin to hardener.

Instead of epoxy on your interior rope trim, why don't you use something like Liquid Nails? You could apply a long bead on the rope and tape it in place until it set up. The epoxy used here would probably spread and run down the wall before it cured.

[Mary K]

Ya know that duct tape comes all kinds of different colors now???

Does it come in Red Mahogany?

The quart of 105 with the small can of hardener will work fine. Ditto the recommendation on the pumps--you don't want to spend time and energy on measuring out the resin to hardener.

Instead of epoxy on your interior rope trim, why don't you use something like Liquid Nails? You could apply a long bead on the rope and tape it in place until it set up. The epoxy used here would probably spread and run down the wall before it cured.

Yeah, that makes more sense....

Mk