Ripping aluminum trim

[asianflava]

I would like to especially thank Craftsman for making thier table saw miter gauge slot a non-standard size - thus not allowing me to use ANY of the featherboards at my local Woodcraft store.

You must have one of the smaller Contractor's saw. I ran into that same problem. I bought some yellow plastic featherboards at Woodcraft and found, as you did, that they don't fit into the miter slots. I tried sanding down one of the pieces that fit into the slot but got to where it was so thin that I was afraid that it would break.

I ended up clamping one down. It wasn't the ideal method since it still had a lot of movement. Maybe I'll make one of those things that fit into the slot out of hardwood or something. I haven't needed the table saw so I haven't messed with it lately.

[Larwyn]

I would like to especially thank Craftsman for making thier table saw miter gauge slot a non-standard size - thus not allowing me to use ANY of the featherboards at my local Woodcraft store.

You must have one of the smaller Contractor's saw. I ran into that same problem. I bought some yellow plastic featherboards at Woodcraft and found, as you did, that they don't fit into the miter slots. I tried sanding down one of the pieces that fit into the slot but got to where it was so thin that I was afraid that it would break.

I ended up clamping one down. It wasn't the ideal method since it still had a lot of movement. Maybe I'll make one of those things that fit into the slot out of hardwood or something. I haven't needed the table saw so I haven't messed with it lately.

I had the same opportunity. I used the benchtop belt sander to “machine” the aluminum block for the mitre slot down to size. Took it slow, sand to almost too hot to touch then test fit. It came out great, also fits my router table…….

[TonyCooper]

Harbor Freight has this featherboard.

36697-0VGA FEATHER BOARD WITH ANGLE FINDER $5.99



I picked it up this last week. I have not tried it yet, but may tomorrow... I can actually work on my teardrop again for a day!

[cracker39]

I haven't thought about ripping alum trim before reading this...very helpful. I've been using home-made featherboards for years and they work great. Just pame sure that when you clamp it down,the feather edges extend just inside the width of the material you are ripping so that you bend them forward when you push it through. In ripping aluminum, I'd not only use the feather board, I'd clamp a piece of wood to the fence to hold the trim down so that it can't kick up either. I always do this when ripping small pieces of wood so that all i have to do is push it through (with a push stick when the end gets near the blade), and not have hold it down.

I''m very careful now with table saws after almost losing a finger and having a couple of surgeries on my hand from a dumb mistake. At least I still have all 10 of them even though some pieces may be missing...

[toypusher]

I ripped some 1/2 x 1/2 down to 1/2 x 1/4 yesterday and all I can say is that I wish I had a full face sheild. The little flying bits of aluminum were diffenitly annoying. Some of the really stung!

I then used my belt sander (turned upside down and clamped to the table of my Shopsmith) to smooth the edges.

Kerry

[Denny Unfried]

I've had success cutting aluminum down with a router table with a split fence. I then mounted a solid fence to guide the back side of the aluminum. Discovered that some kind of shield should be used to keep the bits of aluminum from being sucked into the router. Luckily I was able to take mine apart and clean it before any serious damage was done. I then made a cardboard collar to deflect the chips.

Denny

[Chris C]

Chips, when cutting aluminum, are always extremely dangerous. Not only are they hotter than heck, but they are extremely sharp. Always wear full face protection and long sleeves.

[Steve_Cox]

Another word or two on cutting aluminum. Set the height of the carbide saw blade at the level or just a few thousandths above the height of the piece to be cut. Less heat and and chips thrown in your face and arms that way, from my experience anyway. I've learned alot the hard way and really apreciate all the good info here that flattens out the learning curve. Thanks to all.

[doug hodder]

If you are ripping angle, what I do is drape the angle over a piece of scrap pine and run the 2 together through the saw using push sticks..The wood supports the aluminum and stiffens it so that it won't want to jump around so much during the cut...and definately a full face shield....just a thought...Doug Hodder

[exminnesotaboy]

well, I finally had some time to use everybody's suggestions and here is how it went: my set-up looked very similar to Michael W's:

- definitely used full face shield and long sleeve shirt
- I trimmed the Feather-Loc miter slot pieces down with a belt sander to fit my Craftsman slots and this worked great
- I used a 7.25" 60tooth carbide tipped Tenryu Alumi-Cut blade and it worked fine. I lower I left it, the better.
- I used two of the featherboards - one in front and one behind the blade
- I pushed the piece through as far as safely possible and my girlfriend pulled it through the rest of the way
- I made my own zero tolerance blade insert - this was definitely a must or I can see there would have been issues
- I cleaned up the semi-rough edges with a sanding drum mounted to my drill press

It worked fine for about 40 feet of trimming. Actually, after the correct set up with the feather boards, it was a really easy operation with no problems or hangups.

Thanks everybody for their help on this - it is appreciated!

[cracker39]

A zero tolerance blade insert is a must in my opinion when ripping small pieces. Not using one was responsible for pieces falling through and due to a really stupid lapse of memory, I reached into the back to retrieve them after shutting off the saw, but BEFORE THE BLADE STOPPED SPINNING. My hand sure stopped it. I went back to using the saw, after two surgeries, with a hand that has limited finger movement on a couple of them.

I simply traced the insert onto a piece of 3/4" pine, which fit nicely, flush with the table top, sanded the edges until it fit snugly into the insert opening, then with a piece of 2x4 clamped on top of it, I slowly raised the spinning blade all the way up, cutting a slot in the insert. that way, the insert is really zero tolerance. Nothing other than sawdust can get through it. The only time I don't use it is when I use my dado blade, then I use the dado insert that came with the saw. I probably should make another insert that fits the dado blade better.

[asianflava]

A zero tolerance blade insert is a must in my opinion when ripping small pieces. Not using one was responsible for pieces falling through and due to a really stupid lapse of memory, I reached into the back to retrieve them after shutting off the saw, but BEFORE THE BLADE STOPPED SPINNING. My hand sure stopped it. I went back to using the saw, after two surgeries, with a hand that has limited finger movement on a couple of them.

Ouch! Although we don't like to admit it, I think we are all guilty of a brain fart.

[cracker39]

Asian, It's nice to see that I'm not the only one who gets up at 5 AM to read the forum...

[asianflava]

Get up? No, I'm getting ready to go to bed.