hitching

[rhltechie]

Hi All,

It seems like such an easy topic..or rather question but i still have to get a hitch for my 2000 jeep cherokee. I found one at trailer hitches thats no drilling...does it matter what size the receiver opening is or anything of that sort as long as it will handle at least the weight of the TD?

This is the one I am looking at purchasing linky

thanks,

mandy

[mechmagcn]

Mandy, that should easily handle any teardrop that you build. The "No drill" will make installation a breeze

[Steve F]

A Class 2 reciever is a good choice for the Jeep and will be rated way above the weight of the TD. You should find any hitch for the XJ shouldn't need drilling as they all come with the holes in the frame for the hitch to mount up to. One thing to check though is if you dont have the metal skid plate over the fuel tank you wont have the nutcert strip that goes inside the frame rail to mount the hitch too (the tank skid plate uses it as well). Just make sure the kit comes with it if you dont have it, they are two strips of metal, one for each side, with nuts welded to them. You can use standard nuts and bolts but it's quite hard to get the nut onto the bolt when its got to go 8" into the frame.

Cheers
Steve

[rhltechie]

Thanks guys. I crawled under the other day and I do not have a skid plate. The instructions for this hitch dont mention what you did though..i dont think...this is what is says to do:

INSTRUCTIONS FOR 1997 CHEROKEE NO SKID SHIELD (ILLUSTRATION ‘B’):
1. Lower the exhaust hanger bracket on the passenger side by removing the two existing 12mm nuts.
NOTE: Retain these existing 12mm nuts as they will be required to reinstall exhaust hanger bracket after the installation of hitch assembly
is complete.
2. Thread bolt leader (6) onto carriage bolt (1) and insert bolt leader(6) through hole in spacer(F). Fish bolt leader (6) and assembly through
access hole in frame and carefully pull down through existing hole in frame until bolt is into position.
3. Remove bolt leader(6) and repeat (step no. 1) for the remaining hole.
4. Loosely attach hitch assembly(A) to frame as shown with the exception of exhaust hanger bracket location.
5. Reinstall exhaust hanger bracket as shown being sure to use spacer(F) to compensate for frame bracket thickness.
6. Tighten all bolts; refer to torque table on the instruction sheet.
7. Place drawbar assembly(B) into hitch assembly(A) and insert pull pin(C) into end of drawbar(B). Use pin clip(D) to secure pull pin(C) in place.
8. Plastic cover(E) should replace drawbar assembly(B) when not in use.


When I crawled under and looked it looked as if it would be pretty easy according what it says above. something i am missing?

[toypusher]

Mandy, something to keep in mind if you install it yourself. You may want to take it into a garage or someplace to have all the bolts/nuts tightened with an impact wrench to make sure they are secure. Unless of course, you have your own impact wrench!

[rhltechie]

Hi Kerry,

My dad will probably help me get it hooked up at his shop...he has all sorts of goodies

[Steve F]

Ahhh, Ok, this is talking about putting the bolt in from the top so putting it through the end of the frame, down through the hole and the nut on the bottom. The standard factory hitch has the bolts going up through the frame and into the nut strip Either way is good though.

Cheers
Steve

[rhltechie]

Ahhh, Ok, this is talking about putting the bolt in from the top so putting it through the end of the frame, down through the hole and the nut on the bottom. The standard factory hitch has the bolts going up through the frame and into the nut strip Smile Either way is good though.

cool. i just need one of those fish wire thingies to make it even easier..hehe

[Alphacarina]

My Hidden Hitch mounted in the same manner as your instructions indicate

The carriage bolts with their big washers get pulled up onto the inside of the frame and then down through the proper hole using the supplied wires - I can't imagine another way to do it

Once you have all 4 of the bolts hanging down through the holes in the frame, you raise the hitch up onto the bolts and then add a washer and the locknut. These are only carriage bolts though, so I would be very careful hitting them with an impact wrench . . . . you could twist them off

If you buy the hitch new and it comes with all of the necessary do-dads, it's about an hour or maybe a little more to get it all bolted on

Don

[brian_bp]

I agree that the Class 2 hitch is suitable, and it should definitely be a bolt-on/no-drill like this. Like most Class 2 hitches, including the one on my minivan, it has a 1.25" opening. I don't see any problem with that for towing capacity, but there is a wider choice of ball mounts in the 2" size, so if you need to get the ball really low or really high the 2" size offers more options.

The 2" opening also offers more options in stuff like bike racks and cargo carriers, if that matters to you... and it allows the use of the weight-distribution hardware which teardrops and tiny travel trailers generally don't need anyway.

I have the Class 2 hitch with 1.25" opening and it works fine for my 3000 lb trailer, although I had to hunt for the right ball mount.

A simple answer to the "does it matter what size" question is "no, as long as you can find the right ball mount".

[Dale M.]

A class three and above ( 4 & 5) with a 2 inch receiver is more versicle and has more options available for them like larger selection of raise/lower inserts, and things like cooler shelf's and bike racks.

Also most autoparts have wide selection of 2 inch inserts so if you are on the road and have a problem with insert or somebody steals insert off TV you can more easily find a 2 inch unit than a 1.25 inch unit... Its a popularity thing, most people prefer the t 2 inch ...

Dale

[brian_bp]

...does it matter what size the receiver opening is or anything of that sort as long as it will handle at least the weight of the TD?

Having covered the opening size, in the "anything of that sort" category there's the strength of the construction. Receivers with unnecessarily high capacity will generally be built stronger, and in some cases (including the case of the Cherokee) will mount differently. The stronger construction often means they are bulkier and usually means they are heavier.

The extra strength might matter to someone who wants a big margin of safety, and might make the hitch stiffer (which is generally good). The bulk may mean it hangs down more (which is bad in many cases). The mounting may be more work.

I find the eTrailer site handy, because it shows a range of options for the selected vehicle, with photos. Most of the 2000 Cherokee choices are Class 3 units with 2" receiver openings.

If the vehicle is rated to tow more than the Class 2 limit (of 3500 lb) then getting a higher class of hitch might allow it to be used for more later; although that makes no difference to towing a teardrop, it might matter to the owner.

Since a 2000 Cherokee has a maximum rated towing capacity of 5000 lb with the 6-cylinder (if we can believe the Trailer Life guide) I wouldn't expect to find any Class 4 hitches for it, but a Class 3 could be useful.


Another short answer regarding whether "anything of that sort" matters might be "not as far as the teardrop is concerned".

[asianflava]

Get a 2in, it's easier to find accessories (ball mounts, bike carriers, storage racks, etc.) in that size. Not that you can't get them in the other size, the 2in will more likely be in stock.

[Alphacarina]

Get a 2 inch if you like carrying extra weight around for no good reason - With a teardrop, a Class II is all you'll ever need

Don

[Steve F]

Since a 2000 Cherokee has a maximum rated towing capacity of 5000 lb with the 6-cylinder (if we can believe the Trailer Life guide) I wouldn't expect to find any Class 4 hitches for it, but a Class 3 could be useful.

I have a Hayman Reese class 4 hitch on my 2000 Cherokee, in fact class 4 the most common towbar here in Australia on 4WD's. I've never towed anything near its capacity but it also get used for recovery of other vehicles etc so the 10 high tensile bolts it uses for mounting it over the standard 4 or so make me feel more comfortable. But again, it isn't needed to tow a teardrop

Cheers
Steve