Frame Material (Time to start)

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Frame Material (Time to start)

Postby bledsoe3 » Fri Jun 17, 2005 3:00 am

O.K. I read a lot of the topic's here in the past week. What I'm reading is 2"X2"X1/8" square tubeing is good enough for the frame. Does the tounge need to be larger? I bought my welder, chopsaw and drill press last week and I'll hopefully buy the metal and a router table today. Next is the axle. Dexter #9? You'll be hearing a lot from in the future I suspect. If I can figure it out, I'll post pictures along the way.

:frustrated:
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Jun 17, 2005 5:12 am

You definitely want to consider at least 3/16" for the tongue.

check out why, here:
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... =7679#7679

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Postby bledsoe3 » Fri Jun 17, 2005 6:44 am

Thanks Mike! I will buy the bigger stuff today at the steel yard.
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Postby denverd0n » Fri Jun 17, 2005 11:02 am

I think that how heavy the metal in the tongue needs to be depends on the design and the stresses you intend to put it through. A single, straight tongue needs to be made of heavier material than an A-frame tongue. A trailer that's going to be pulled off-road needs to be made sturdier than one that will only see paved highways.

The folks at Glen-L do real engineering on their plans (as opposed to most of us who just do by-guess-and-by-golly). Here is the closest thing they have to our tears:

Image

Here is the frame for this trailer, made of 2"x2"x1/8" steel tube:

Image

Now, this is NOT a frame made for off-roading, so I would recommend something stronger if that's in your plan. If your tear is only going to see paved roads, though, I am sure that a frame like the one shown would be more than adequate.
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Postby bledsoe3 » Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:37 am

O.K. I've got the frame built. Now I'm going to attach the tongue. Is there a standard length for it. I'm not building an a-frame style. Thanks again.
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Postby JunkMan » Mon Jun 20, 2005 2:33 pm

The tounge is usually at least 3' long. It should be long enough that if you jacknife your trailer the tounge is the only thing that touches your back bumper (the corner of the trailer doesn't hit the bumper). On larger trailers that are towed with pick-up trucks (large tandem axel flatbed trailers) I usually make the tounge 3 1/2" - 4' long.
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Postby bledsoe3 » Tue Jun 21, 2005 8:21 am

Here is the basic frame. I used a 3 foot tongue as suggested.

Image

I used 2"X2"X1/8" for the frame and 2"X3"X3/16 for the tongue. I think it looks O.K. for a rookie. It's even square!
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Postby asianflava » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:40 pm

Frame looks good! :thumbsup:

I opted not to put the rear cross member because the axle will serve that purpose. It won't support the floor but it will tie the sides together. It's only a 15lb difference.
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Postby igofshn » Tue Jun 21, 2005 4:49 pm

That tongue failed because of the design of the trailer. 1/8 is fine. Look at the hf trailers. They aren't any more than 1/8.

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braces were added to strengthen mine.
Last edited by igofshn on Tue Jun 21, 2005 10:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby JunkMan » Tue Jun 21, 2005 7:56 pm

I added some diagonal braces to the tounge of my frame to strengthen it.

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Postby bledsoe3 » Tue Jun 21, 2005 8:18 pm

JunkMan, I'm putting in braces just like those as we speak. I'm also puting in some 2"X2" angle iron 6" pieces on the inside of the frame to attach the floor to.
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Postby asianflava » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:54 pm

igofshn wrote:That tongue failed because of the design of the trailer. 1/8 is fine. Look at the hf trailers. They aren't any more than 1/8.


Not to mention quite a bit of offroad use.
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Postby Boodro » Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:37 am

Just a question , I have looked at a few of the old prints from the origional magzines & they show the frames made from pipe. Is pipe stronger than angle ? Is it cheaper ? Is it easier to work with? If pipe is stronger than angle , could you go smaller on the pipe size and still have a strong frame? Like maybe 1 1/2 inch pipe or 2 inch ? Any thouoghtrs out there from you steel workers or engineers? :thinking: :thinking: :thumbdown: :thumbsup:
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Postby asianflava » Wed Jun 22, 2005 3:19 am

If I remember correctly, round tube is stronger than square or rectangular in the same given area. But I think one of round tube's advantages is that it has uniform strength from any direction. Retangular tubing does not.

If you have a notcher, tubing wouldn't be that bad I imagine.
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Postby JunkMan » Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:20 am

Boodro wrote:Just a question , I have looked at a few of the old prints from the origional magzines & they show the frames made from pipe. Is pipe stronger than angle ? Is it cheaper ? Is it easier to work with? If pipe is stronger than angle , could you go smaller on the pipe size and still have a strong frame? Like maybe 1 1/2 inch pipe or 2 inch ? Any thouoghtrs out there from you steel workers or engineers? :thinking: :thinking: :thumbdown: :thumbsup:


I think one of the reasons that pipe was used, is that it was easier to get. Round pipe should be cheaper than square tubing, also stronger (notice that you never see a square tubing roll bar). Square tubing has a better mounting surface to bolt/screw your floor and walls onto, with round pipe, you would probably have to add tabs to attach the body. Fitting square tubing is easier than fitting round pipe, unless you have access to a notcher.

There are actually several motorcycle trailers currently being manufactured that use round tubing frames with expanded steel mesh for the floors, in an effort to keep the weight down.
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