Del's canned ham build

[Nitetimes]

Del,
Another way for you to shoot down or not.
Strip plank the area that Angib says to bend plywood around ie the compound curved area. It should work out to be the same width etc all the way around. This simpifies things imensly. It would of course look strange if not painted. Hm...
By the way please stop this quest for the most dificult build. Your making me think of building the 47 roswell in aluminum or it's follow on the much larger 47 Maury Island. Compared to what your doing it's almost a piece of cake!

The skin on this trailer will be a 1/8" thick, planks that size? The roswell I believe was intended to be skinned in aluminum, the thought of polishing makes me prefer paint. Now whats this 47 Maury island? Does it have a boat on top?

del

You know you could save yourself a lot of work skinning that thing if you just pick up an old sheet metal press and had some dies and punches made to suit the bends you need. Then it would be a simple matter of putting the sheet on the press and pushing the button. You should be able to pick one up for oh say 20-40 grand, maybe another 15k for the punches and dies. Just think of the work you'd save!!
You do have 3 phase in your house don't you??

[del]

You know you could save yourself a lot of work skinning that thing if you just pick up an old sheet metal press and had some dies and punches made to suit the bends you need. Then it would be a simple matter of putting the sheet on the press and pushing the button. You should be able to pick one up for oh say 20-40 grand, maybe another 15k for the punches and dies. Just think of the work you'd save!!
You do have 3 phase in your house don't you??

You know that sounds promising till I realize there is only single phase electricity here. I wonder if I could tap off some electricity, from the warehouse down the street, nobody would notice my wire running across two streets, and about six yards?

del

[del]

Well gears are turning, and I believe black water storage tank placement is what I need to work out.

Where I put the step (under the future door) dictates the shower and thrown (toilet) move back like this.

Or do I move it back further?

Sink is there in a supporting role only, in time the floor will take over this duty.
I like how Andrew set this up, you open the door and step into the shower, with the sink in front of you (over the wheel well), turn and sit down (or stand) on the thrown. I am thinking since the black water storage tank goes inside the frame rail, it will create dead space (between the tank and the wall), space for a storage cabinet. How is my thinking?

del

[angib]

Well, I've recreated my CAD file (after the disc crash) and thought I'd go for 3D, so here are a couple of views of the sidewall framework before the skin(s) goes on.





And here is the shape of the ribs.



I've used a 3"x3/4" section for each of the ring frames. One the outer one, half the outer edge of the ring frame is cut away to form a seat for the side skin to be fixed to - the other half is used as a seat for the roof/front/back skin to fix to.

And the detail I've forgotten to show is that the centre of the radius is directly below the outer edge of the inner ring frame (ie, in line with the right end of the 15" dimension).

Note that the available area to put windows in gets a lot smaller with this bulging sidewall - I've dotted in where they could be.

Andrew

[del]

And here is the shape of the ribs.




Andrew

Thank you Andrew.
The images you create never cease to amaze me. The drawing of the ribs should be easy enough to build, Thank you.

del

[del]

Now I will ask a question that will get many different answers, but I will ask anyway. Floor construction, keep in mind this is a standie, but I want it as light as possible with a little bit of insulation. I am thinking 1/2" ply with some kind of insulating padding then flooring on top. Thoughts or concerns?

del

[Alan Wood]

Now I will ask a question that will get many different answers, but I will ask anyway. Floor construction, keep in mind this is a standie, but I want it as light as possible with a little bit of insulation. I am thinking 1/2" ply with some kind of insulating padding then flooring on top. Thoughts or concerns?

del

Do you plan on having a wooden floor frame? The area in front of the metal cross members of the trailer frame looks a might long to me for just plywood. How far apart are the cross members? And what do you have in mind for insulated padding?

[del]

Do you plan on having a wooden floor frame? I was trying to see if I could save some weight The area in front of the metal cross members of the trailer frame looks a might long to me for just plywood. How far apart are the cross members? aaaaa I do not know And what do you have in mind for insulated padding?I was kinda hoping someone would have a bright idea, another words I have no idea

cheers del

[Alan Wood]

Do you plan on having a wooden floor frame? I was trying to see if I could save some weight The area in front of the metal cross members of the trailer frame looks a might long to me for just plywood. How far apart are the cross members? aaaaa I do not know And what do you have in mind for insulated padding?I was kinda hoping someone would have a bright idea, another words I have no idea

cheers del

Hm I am thinking that if this was my build I would probably make a 1x 4 or maybe 1x2 floor frame with 1/4 inch ply on the bottom (but not from your home improvement center gag I got some real garbage plywood there) and 3/8ths on the top. Fill the center with styrofoam.
Alan Wood

[del]

Do you plan on having a wooden floor frame? I was trying to see if I could save some weight The area in front of the metal cross members of the trailer frame looks a might long to me for just plywood. How far apart are the cross members? aaaaa I do not know And what do you have in mind for insulated padding?I was kinda hoping someone would have a bright idea, another words I have no idea

cheers del

Hm I am thinking that if this was my build I would probably make a 1x 4 or maybe 1x2 floor frame with 1/4 inch ply on the bottom (but not from your home improvement center gag I got some real garbage plywood there) and 3/8ths on the top. Fill the center with styrofoam.
Alan Wood

I have considered that type of construction, but am trying to cut out some weight.

del

[Alan Wood]

Do you plan on having a wooden floor frame? I was trying to see if I could save some weight The area in front of the metal cross members of the trailer frame looks a might long to me for just plywood. How far apart are the cross members? aaaaa I do not know And what do you have in mind for insulated padding?I was kinda hoping someone would have a bright idea, another words I have no idea

cheers del

Hm I am thinking that if this was my build I would probably make a 1x 4 or maybe 1x2 floor frame with 1/4 inch ply on the bottom (but not from your home improvement center gag I got some real garbage plywood there) and 3/8ths on the top. Fill the center with styrofoam.
Alan Wood

I have considered that type of construction, but am trying to cut out some weight.

del

Understood however the floor is the last place to cut corners if you ask me. Particularly with it extending a ways forward of the front cross member. If the front cross member was at the front of the floor and the cross members were close enough together the 1/2 inch plywood would probably do very well indeed in my opinion. However it doesn't look like either is the case here. And it looks like the floor will be supporing the front to boot.

[Elumia]

on those short curved ribs...

Wouldn't it be easier to build them to the final shape and screw on a block rather than figuring how to cut off part of an assembled wall?

Since you need 52 of them, you might want to see if someone can cut them from a CNC (maybe have them make 60 or so - you never know). The more uniform they are, the easier it will be for you to assemble your side wall. Time savings may be worth it too!

RE: the floor: 1/2" would be fine, but you must consider the distance you are spanning. If you try to span 3' no way. Consider how you will frame it and then decide the floor deck. Check out 5/8" you can get 4x8 sheets with a tongue and groove typically used as housing underlayment. typical floor joist spans are 16" for 5/8" I believe.

Mark

[del]

Understood however the floor is the last place to cut corners if you ask me. Particularly with it extending a ways forward of the front cross member. If the front cross member was at the front of the floor and the cross members were close enough together the 1/2 inch plywood would probably do very well indeed in my opinion. However it doesn't look like either is the case here. And it looks like the floor will be supporing the front to boot.

The original floor was 3/4 ply with no insulation, or wooden frame work. But I do want to go lighter, and I do require at least some insulation.

on those short curved ribs...

Wouldn't it be easier to build them to the final shape and screw on a block rather than figuring how to cut off part of an assembled wall? Do you mean from top to bottom, one rib? There are only so many I could do that way,

Since you need 52 of them, you might want to see if someone can cut them from a CNC (maybe have them make 60 or so - you never know). The more uniform they are, the easier it will be for you to assemble your side wall. Time savings may be worth it too! hmmm

RE: the floor: 1/2" would be fine, but you must consider the distance you are spanning. If you try to span 3' no way. Consider how you will frame it and then decide the floor deck. Check out 5/8" you can get 4x8 sheets with a tongue and groove typically used as housing underlayment. typical floor joist spans are 16" for 5/8" I believe. I am trying to save weight 5/8?

Mark

[Elumia]

on the ribs, not full length ribs, just eliminate the part that Andrew says to cut off later, use a screwed on block while assembling wall. It would be easier to remove some screws than try to cut off parts on an assembled wall. I'm assuming you want to have the curve inside as well as outside.

I didn't see you wanted insulation on the floor. Not sure it is needed if you insulate the walls and ceiling. How much heat would you really loose through the floor? 5/8 would be lighter than 3/4, heavier than 1/2. if it originally had 3/4, it might be lighter to keep it that way because you don't need any extra framing to span the steel frame members. Still might want to look for tongue and groove ply for the floor for a better seal between sheets.

MArk

[angib]

Wouldn't it be easier to build them to the final shape and screw on a block rather than figuring how to cut off part of an assembled wall?

I think Mark is suggesting going from the one-piece to the two-piece design below:





It's a nice idea, though I can see a downside - when making the permanent joints with epoxy, it would be hard to prevent getting some on those removable pieces, thereby locking them in place. Wrapping the removable pieces in cling film (= saran wrap in US?) a couple of times before fitting them to the ribs might, or might not, do it.

Andrew