Outer Lower Wall Trim Question

[Classic Finn]

I have a question on the side trim. The side lower trim I have cut is one long piece. When I get to the area that is covered by the fenders.

The fenders seem to tilt outwards a bit (1.5mm) in that section when the trim is completely under it. Do I need to cut a section out from behind it? Ending it just at the front of fender and then continue it from back edge of the fender?

Or are the fenders still ok on top there? I was going to leave that trim our from behind the fenders but is this a wise decision?

Here is a photo so you understand my morning English (before coffee) a bit better However that is not an up to date photo but that is the best photo I have for now.



Notice the plastic in that area where the fender sits normally.

Classic Finn

[eamarquardt]

You mentioned one solution. Another would be t shim out the top of the fender to make it sit square with the rest of the trailer.


Cheers,



Gus

[Classic Finn]

You mentioned one solution. Another would be t shim out the top of the fender to make it sit square with the rest of the trailer.


Cheers,



Gus

Hi Gus

What do you think if I cut the same with of a strip all around the fender as is the inner lip? And of the same material? Then the fenders would be shimmed as you say evenly around.. Or is that a waste?
It would be about 1 inch or bit more around in width.

Classic Finn

[eamarquardt]

That would work or you could buy some fender welting like they used on vw fenders which might provide enough to get you square again. I't looks like your fenders are going up against the diamond plate. an uneven surface. You could use a router and route the diamond plate down flat where the fender will fit against it reducing the height. I'd make a bigger base plate for your router (you have to have a router, it's a rule!) so it rests on lots of the little bumps and then carefully route down a place/path for the fender to seat. Use water mist or something like that (have someone spray or use a garden hose (I'd recommend using a GFI protected electrical circuit)) to keep the al cool while cutting with a carbide bit. You could also make a template to cut the seat. After the diamond plate is flat you could use a little thinner shim or a couple of washers with the mounting bolts in maybe three places per fender. If you like I can e-mail you a drawing of what I have in mind.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Gus

[Classic Finn]

Good Afternoon Gus

Yes indeed that helps a bunch.. at the moment yes it does have the gap there and the fender leans against the plating..

How far apart do we need to space the screws on it? And have you folks used a silicone or equivalent on this ?

Classic Finn

PS That moulding trim on the edges as you can see in my photo hanging straight yet, does that go over the plating or is the plating cut just on the inner edge of it?

[Roly Nelson]

Lets see, Heikki, is the Swedish word, klister? That's what I used.....commonly known as glue. Better yet, just throw in some bolts and with a one inch wide putty knife, smear on some of that thick, black roofing patch material, partly out on the fender and partly up the wall of the teardrop............Naw, that wouldn't look too good, and would have to be replaced about every year. With no aluminum exterior experience, I'm afraid I can't help with your question. Behaga forlata.
Roly Ha det so bra

[ARKPAT]

I do not know if this helps but can you just get another ( same pattern and plate as you used ) "Diamond plate" and reverse it and use the smooth side to attach the fenders and let the space between the Diamond plate be open so you can clean dirt and debrie as it collects. Shape it as you fender or maybe a small overhang as a releif ( shadow ).



Pat

[Mitch M]

Hey Heikki, I'm a little late on the reply, but that fender welting as mentioned before is great stuff for taking up that gap between your outside wall and fender. it also cuts down on possible rattles and rubs. pretty cheap about $20 U.S....good luck