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General Discussion about almost anything Teardrop or camping related

Postby The R/C Man » Mon Jun 20, 2005 2:29 pm

IraRat wrote:I was WONDERING why you didn't answer that one.
But that's not going to work for your interior roof.


Why not? Is it to thin?
Greg


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Postby IraRat » Mon Jun 20, 2005 3:07 pm

Did you think regular finished paneling is going to make those bends you have without cracking? That's why I've been going nuts looking for the right stuff, and wound up ordering bendable birch ply from BOSTON to be shipped to FLORIDA!

I think just about any finished paneling is going to crack with that curve. You can do straight luan, don't know which thickness, but this is a major issue with the interior roof skin.
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Postby TRAIL-OF-TEARS » Mon Jun 20, 2005 4:29 pm

IraRat wrote:Did you think regular finished paneling is going to make those bends you have without cracking? That's why I've been going nuts looking for the right stuff, and wound up ordering bendable birch ply from BOSTON to be shipped to FLORIDA!

I think just about any finished paneling is going to crack with that curve. You can do straight luan, don't know which thickness, but this is a major issue with the interior roof skin.


Nice progress R/C, I have been working on mine since Christmas and I am not much farther along than you.
Hey IraRat I just finnished my ceiling in my tear I used 1/4" birch ply and had to make a bunch of Kerf cuts to get it to bend but I was able to get it to fit with just a little elbow grease. I just gave up looking for the bendy, wiggle, bending stock or what ever it is called. I am just too cheap.
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Postby IraRat » Tue Jun 21, 2005 8:04 am

It's funny how depending on where you live, certain materials aren't available.

I think Bruce did a lot of kerfing on his too. It's great solution but I know I would wind up screwing it up. I'm cheap too, but I had to bite the bullet and spend the money on the bending birch. Once finished, I know it's going to look great too. (Well, as great as my skills will allow.)

My main point is that conventional wall paneling won't bend like that, and I would think it's way too thin to kerf. The interior ceiling is a BIG part of the structutral integrity, and even if you could kerf it well, I don't think you would want to kerf into such thin material.
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Postby toypusher » Tue Jun 21, 2005 8:09 am

Ira,

I am going to use the 1/8" plywood per the Cubby plans and I really think that it will work just fine. I already have it in my garage and it does seems plenty 'bendy' to me. Time will tell, I hope to get to the interior ceiling by the end of next week (if all goes well).

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Postby TRAIL-OF-TEARS » Tue Jun 21, 2005 4:39 pm

IraRat wrote:It's funny how depending on where you live, certain materials aren't available.

I think Bruce did a lot of kerfing on his too. It's great solution but I know I would wind up screwing it up. I'm cheap too, but I had to bite the bullet and spend the money on the bending birch. Once finished, I know it's going to look great too. (Well, as great as my skills will allow.)

My main point is that conventional wall paneling won't bend like that, and I would think it's way too thin to kerf. The interior ceiling is a BIG part of the structutral integrity, and even if you could kerf it well, I don't think you would want to kerf into such thin material.


IraRat,
I did notice,when I was installing the ceiling, that I could see light through it where the kerfs were, so it must be thin.
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Postby The R/C Man » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:17 pm

IraRat,

After going to the hardware store and bending the paneling it seems as though it should work. It is not very expensive so I'll give it a try and see how it goes.

About the strength issue, are you refering to lateral strength(such as if something where to fall on the tear)? By gluing the paneling to each spar, adding the stiff isulation (with glue) and then gluing on the roof the strength of the multiple layers should be awesome. It is also the way aircraft wings are made as well my high power rocket fins which exceed mach.....
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Postby IraRat » Wed Jun 22, 2005 7:58 am

You actually bent it to those curves you have? I'm really surprised. I would still buy just one piece to test on your tightest radius.

Are you going to cut the AC opening after the interior ceiling is up? That was my plan. And while I switched this to the subject of the AC...

I hadn't planned on using the window accessory assembly--that thing with the sliding openings on the side. You? Also, my unit has one length of mounting bracket at the top of the unit. That long piece of metal with a few holes that you would use to screw it into a window frame.

However, it has a narrow channel in it, certainly too narrow to acccommodate the thickness of the spar. Are you seeing the same thing, and if so, did you plan on replacing that piece? Plus installing others on the sides?

I'n very concerned about getting that thing mounted rock solid.
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Postby Woody » Wed Jun 22, 2005 5:47 pm

How come everyone has trouble bending radiuses, I bent 1/4" bead board birch paneling for the interior roof skin lengthwise on a 20" interior radius and halfway down the front with no problems at all. It just took time and some effort and it can be done. The same for the front exterior double radius skins using 1/4" luan also. It just takes alittle patience, some beer, some time and some more beer. Why spend all the money on expensive wood, use the savings for cool stuff for the teardrop.
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Postby Larwyn » Wed Jun 22, 2005 6:04 pm

Woody wrote:How come everyone has trouble bending radiuses, I bent 1/4" bead board birch paneling for the interior roof skin lengthwise on a 20" interior radius and halfway down the front with no problems at all. It just took time and some effort and it can be done. The same for the front exterior double radius skins using 1/4" luan also. It just takes alittle patience, some beer, some time and some more beer. Why spend all the money on expensive wood, use the savings for cool stuff for the teardrop.


Woody,

Glad you posted that. My plan for this weekend is to try bending 1/4" luan around the front curve of the Escape Pod. The patience and time are not much of a problem. As for the beer, will Guinness Stout work as well or should I use one of the more pale American brews...??? :lol: :lol:
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Postby Nitetimes » Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:56 pm

Go with the Guinness, it will be more likely to work right.
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Postby WoodSmith » Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:26 pm

Larwyn wrote:Woody,

Glad you posted that. My plan for this weekend is to try bending 1/4" luan around the front curve of the Escape Pod. The patience and time are not much of a problem. As for the beer, will Guinness Stout work as well or should I use one of the more pale American brews...??? :lol: :lol:


I prefer hard cider to beer, never developed a taste for it. So if it were me I'd pour the beer into my wallpaper steamer and use it to steam the plywood while drinking a cider. The steamer has an 8x10 or so - um - thingy to disperse the steam a little bit so you can get a larger area.

I recently made a cradle boat and used the wallpaper steamer to steam/wet the 1/4 inch oak ply for the sides - they bent MUCH easier after that. I was going to use the "pour boiling water on blankets/towels on top of the plywood" method that I've read about here, but saw the steamer in the shop and thought I'd try it.

One word of caution, the wood can get hot - don't use that old worn out pair of gloves with a hole in the finger when handling it (Don't ask me how I know this.) :oops:
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Postby Larwyn » Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:20 pm

WoodSmith wrote:
Larwyn wrote:Woody,

Glad you posted that. My plan for this weekend is to try bending 1/4" luan around the front curve of the Escape Pod. The patience and time are not much of a problem. As for the beer, will Guinness Stout work as well or should I use one of the more pale American brews...??? :lol: :lol:


I prefer hard cider to beer, never developed a taste for it. So if it were me I'd pour the beer into my wallpaper steamer and use it to steam the plywood while drinking a cider. The steamer has an 8x10 or so - um - thingy to disperse the steam a little bit so you can get a larger area.

I recently made a cradle boat and used the wallpaper steamer to steam/wet the 1/4 inch oak ply for the sides - they bent MUCH easier after that. I was going to use the "pour boiling water on blankets/towels on top of the plywood" method that I've read about here, but saw the steamer in the shop and thought I'd try it.

One word of caution, the wood can get hot - don't use that old worn out pair of gloves with a hole in the finger when handling it (Don't ask me how I know this.) :oops:


Actually I did run a bit of a test on the 1/4" luan with a clothing steamer this past weekend. Just laid a piece of luan (aprx 3'x4') secured on one short edge over the clothing nozel (about 4 inches wide). Sat back and had a pint while the steamer worked away. My setup was less than perfect, so when I finished the Guinness and tested the luan's flexability it tried to twist, as the steamed side bent much more easily than the other. Thinking of making a 4' wide nozel out of pvc, setting up more carefully and actually using this thing. I'm sure your steamer would work better but this is what I have. :)

Oh and Nitetimes, I appreciate your recommendation on the proper brew for the job. I concur completely. :thumbsup:
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Postby The R/C Man » Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:04 am

Wow, I'll have to read all these posts later. I had a long day and I'm heading off to bed. I did get the paneling to bend the tight radious on the front of the trailer... Although it did take some muscle. Here is a quick pic of the paneling I am going to use. This is a test fit....

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Postby IraRat » Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:29 am

Nice grain to it!

And look at all those RC car kits sitting on the shelf! When are you going to build THOSE!?

Ahh, I miss my servo days.
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