Which is better 3/4" inch sides or insulated sides

[zlamb0002]

Well which one would be better for me I am going to be using the camper year around. One of the last things I am trying to decide on is 3/4" sides or insulated sides. If I do the insulated side I will use 1/4" plywood inside and out with 1x2 framing with 3/4" insulation.

[asianflava]

I'll say insulated because that's what I have. I can't really say fer sure because I've never camped in a solid sided tear. You probably don't need all that wood though, I used 1/8in ply on both sides and it is fine.

[madjack]

...toss a coin...using a stick and skin setup, you can save as much as 50#s overall but using solid ply sides is simpler...I build with 3/4" sides...no insulation...and see no real need for it...the coldest I have camped in was 30*s and with the wife and two mutant chihuahuas, we were quite cozy with a small ceramic heater set on it's lowest setting...if you wish to do a lot of boony camping, in the winter, without access to electricity, you may wish to insulate the sides as well as the top...so it all depends on whether the weight savings and winter usage, justifies the extra work to build a sandwich vs solid sides.....
madjack

[Ivar the Red]

Ok. But wouldn't the solid sides last longer?

[toypusher]

Ok. But wouldn't the solid sides last longer?

Why would they?? As long as things are sealed correctly against water getting in, then either way should not last longer than the other.

I prefer the sandwich built walls. It is overall a bit cooler and warmer, depending on the season/reason. Solid walls can tend to 'sweat' in cold weather (condensation). It also ads sound dampening better than solid walls.

No matter whick sidewalls you choose, you really should insulate the roof!!

[len19070]

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... 98&start=0

[grant whipp]

Who says you've got to add framing to include insulation? Why not cut your profile from 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, cut a bunch of lightening holes where you don't need strength for windows, doors, or cabinetry ... panel the inside with 1/8" plywood paneling ... stuff 1/2" or 3/4" foamboard insulation in the holes ... then cover with 1/8" or 1/4" plywood (I prefer 1/4" if I'm gluing the aluminum to the sides) ... ...

You'll get all the benefits of plywood walls, all the benefits of insulated walls, less work, and a weight that is closer to a stick-framed construction! Notice that I didn't say the same as stick-frame ... my plywood-framed trailers run 75-100# heavier than my old stick-framed ones, but they're 100-150# lighter than if they were solid plywood.

Food for thought ... ...

CHEERS!

Grant

[tinksdad]

Who says you've got to add framing to include insulation? Why not cut your profile from 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, cut a bunch of lightening holes where you don't need strength for windows, doors, or cabinetry ... panel the inside with 1/8" plywood paneling ... stuff 1/2" or 3/4" foamboard insulation in the holes ... then cover with 1/8" or 1/4" plywood (I prefer 1/4" if I'm gluing the aluminum to the sides) ... ...

I keep learning from the pros. That's exactly what I was planning on doing with #2. I hadn't considered using 1/2" for the framing sheet; but I will now. I do have a question though... What kind of ply to use for the framing part? I would think that regular sheathing would not be the right choice. I'd be afraid that it would warp too much. I would imagine something with more plys for stability?

[Joseph]

My 1" sandwich sides are lighter than 3/4" plywood but they were a lot harder to build. My next teardrop (HA!) will probably have 1/2" plywood sides.

Joseph

[Elumia]

If you want it really light, stick frame it with 1/8" inside and just alum skin like all the old travel trailers were made.

Mark

[Rick Sheerin]

I built mine with 3/4 inch walls plus 1/4 cedar t&g interior walls. It might be a little heavier but it's warm and quiet. Have never had a problem with condensation either.

[grant whipp]

... Why not cut your profile from 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, cut a bunch of lightening holes where you don't need strength for windows, doors, or cabinetry ... panel the inside with 1/8" plywood paneling ... stuff 1/2" or 3/4" foamboard insulation in the holes ... then cover with 1/8" or 1/4" plywood ...

... I hadn't considered using 1/2" for the framing sheet; but I will now. I do have a question though... What kind of ply to use for the framing part? I would think that regular sheathing would not be the right choice. I'd be afraid that it would warp too much. I would imagine something with more plys for stability?

Personally, I just use ACX fir for the outside walls (won't use anything less than exterior grade, there) ... by the time you glue on your inner & outer layers, you've got a pretty stout wall! But, if you are going to have a fairly large panel with little or no additional stiffening (windows, cabinets, and/or shelves), I'd suggest bumping the inner core to 5/8" or 3/4", just to be safe.

Good luck on the new project! And, as always ...

CHEERS!

Grant