Trailer frame recommendations request

[fseider]

Hello all, new to TDs, and planning my first build. My number one consideration is weight as we'll be hauling this with a Mazda 3. Number two is looks Here are the current plans:

4 X 8, but possibly 4.5 X 8 or a 5 X 8 - still deciding. The pros and cons are not an issue, I'm pretty well versed there. Also depends on the final total weight estimate. Estimating the build to be around 1000 to 1100 lbs based on the plans, but hoping to make this a bit less if at all possible.

It's the trailer itself that has me concerned. First off, I will be using a torsion axle at a minimum, still undecided on a full length or stub axles. Not an issue here. Second, it will be steel, or some metal, but not wood.

After all of my reading here, I am a bit confused and scared to death I'll screw this up and wind up scattered all over the highway the first time I hit a pothole. But if anything, I did learn to respect the details.

Questions:

Should I just go and build my own, buy one and use as is, or buy one and augment the structural integrity. I do have a welder available to me. (I paid for his welding school and his certifications, I may as well abuse him a bit.)

1 - If I build my own - what size steel? Angle or square tube? What thickness?

2 - I'm a bit concerned with buying a trailer, seems the minor errors in the frame during manufacturing (based on posts here) multiply to big headaches for the actual build. Am I being over cautious?

3 - Or should I buy a trailer and beef up the side rails and tongue? Seems that may make the trailer much heavier? (or just a little?) I doubt I can buy 4.5 X 8, but that's a seperate issue.

The one advantage of buying a trailer, and modifying it or not, is that I'll have a title. Makes registration a lot easier.

Thoughts, comments?

Thanks in advance!
Fred

[mikeschn]

Hi Fred,

Don't agonize over the chassis so... it's not THAT critical.

Any errors in the chassis can be compensated for in the trailer build.

Typically you build on top of the chassis.

And if you have your walls covering the chassis, the walls will attach to the subfloor of your teardrop, not the chassis.

So you are really counting on having a good subfloor to build your trailer on. Refer to the Generic Benroy plans (up there in the menu) for a good starting point.

Mike...

P.S. Avoid the stub axles. They are a pain the the rear!

P.P.S. If you build from scratch, here's some ideas...
the chassis plans are in this thread...
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... ssis#60514

[Nitetimes]

Did you read thru this? Trailer Tutorial It should answer some of your questions and maybe give you a few ideas. I personally would never buy a trailer knowing I had to modify it, building is much easier and quicker in my opinion. But I'm a welder by trade sooo.....

[Alphacarina]

Since you 'have' a welder, I would weld up a frame from scratch

Use 2 by 2 square tubing (1/8th wall) for the frame and a 2 by 3 stood vertically for the tongue. Your welder can also install the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers while he's at it

I like the stub axles . . . . mostly because you can easily adjust the final ride height with them and Dexter doesn't give you that option with their full axles. If you're at all worried about bolting on the stub axles then have your welder do those too - Just take some care laying them out to keep them square and in line and you won't have any problems

I was in the process of collecting all the parts to build what you're looking at when I came across a brand new 4 wide Little Guy for $1500 - It weighs about 650 pounds and I could never have built anything that light . . . . let alone for that kind of money. We pull with a 5 speed Protege 5 . . . . the forerunner of your Mazda 3. I also pull a 750 pound covered motorcycle trailer . . . . with a 600 pound motorcycle inside (1979 Honda CBX) so you can easily pull a good bit of weight with your 2 liter 4 banger

Don

[fseider]

Thanks everyone, much appreciated. I'll dig deeper into building my own trailer. But it is interesting on the difference of opinion on a full axle vs the stub axles, I see it on many of the threads. I'm still undecided. I was leaning towards the full axel if I bought a trailer, and the stubs if I make my own.

Alphacarina - I have a motorcycle trailer, but that stays dedicated to my baby - 2007 Yamaha Roadliner 1900. I know what your thinking - Why would I tow a TD if I have a baby like that at home? Easy - I plan on the misses hauling the TD and I'll be ridin my baby!

[Alphacarina]

I was gonna suggest you pull it with the bike . . . . 1900 cc's and all, but I looked it up and I see that surprisingly, you don't have 100 HP so you better leave it with the car

Surprised only because my 30 year old 1047 cc Honda has 105 . . . . I would have thought that a modern, fuel injected 1900 cc engine would make lots more . . . . but then I see you still have pushrods

Don

[brian_bp]

...I like the stub axles . . . . mostly because you can easily adjust the final ride height with them and Dexter doesn't give you that option with their full axles. ...

The adjustability is a feature of the Flexiridesuspension in both "half axles" (sometimes called "stub axles") and full axle assemblies... but not in the lowest-capacity half-axles.

Dexter Torflex suspensions are not adjustable in either half-axles or full axle assemblies.

... so adjustability is not a half-axle versus full-axle issue; it's a Flexiride versus everyone else issue. Unless I have really misunderstood something here...

[Arne]

I have a 'regular' torsion axle. The stubs will save you about 50# or so. but, they have to be attached to metal so they don't/won't move.

The full axle does act as a frame member... but, it could be done a lot lighter. I was really surprised how much the 2,000# axle weighed.. I suspect it might be 1/4" wall square tubing. Heavier than necessary for a 1,000# trailer.

[mikeschn]

Yea, the guys hit the nail right on the head. You want to use a steel member to attach the stub axles to.

Besides avoiding a pull off failure, which we've seen elsewhere, it helps keep the two stubs square to each other.

I wonder if it makes sense to add a bow in the steel member to help the trailer track true?

Mike...

P.s. I like the flexiride axles, cause I can adjust the start angle any time I want.

[brian_bp]

Yea, the guys hit the nail right on the head. You want to use a steel member to attach the stub axles to.

... and there's your weight gained back, or at least a significant chunk of it.

I wonder if it makes sense to add a bow in the steel member to help the trailer track true?

In a previous discussion we realized that some Flexiride models of half-axle have a bit of positive camber built into the mounts, but others don't, and shims can be used in mounting to get the angle right. I think the mounting should suit the hardware... and it's a lot easier to do by just using a full axle assembly, but it can be done either way.

[Rigsby]

As a builder of small cargo trailers, i would go for a full width torsion axle, This makes the tracking of the trailer a lot easier than using independant units, Having said that torsion axles are expensive compared to using a beam axle and leaf spring arrangement
I would go for a custom built chassis using 2"x 2"x 1/8" angle for the frame, 2"x2"box for the main tongue , with angle braces to the outer edges of the frame
Towing with the Mazda 3, personaly i would use a braked axle, this will give your wife a bit more confidence when braking with what is basicaly a light weight car(over here any trailer that will gross at 750 kg or above requires brakes by law)
Here is a picture of the chassis i made up for my TD

steve

[Alphacarina]

... so adjustability is not a half-axle versus full-axle issue; it's a Flexiride versus everyone else issue

True - The much lesser shipping charges on the stub axles are another thing to consider . . . . but the adjustability is the really big one, at least for me

Brakes should always be considered, but he's shooting for 1000 pounds - 750Kg is about 1650 pounds, so you probably don't see lots of 1000 pound trailers with brakes, even in Europe. My personal experience with a similar car is that it stops the trailer just fine - Even in some pretty adverse conditions

Now if he was towing it with the motorcycle . . . . .

Don

[fseider]

Hmmm, good point about the motorcycle, though it is actually 101 HP, but 91 at the rear wheel. Pick and choose which ever. Torque is at 124, and 117 at the rear wheel. Pretty much irrelevant, I ride free, no tag along for me. Married, been there there, done that. Uh of, here comes the flames ...

All good advice, and additional things to ponder. Thanks everyone!