Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

by **kelvin** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 12:19 pm

I'm just curious, if I decided to finish my TD in wood tone versus aluminum, what do you finish the wood with? Marine Varnish? Fiberglass Resin?

Thanks

by **Chris C** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 12:42 pm

Either! A good SparVar or Epoxy will do a good job. You might ask Doug Hodder. He finished his wooden tear with Epoxy and then top-coated it with a UV Inhibitor SparVar, I think.

by **Ross Wade** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 12:45 pm

Hey Kelvin,

The choice is really up to you. I fiberglassed and epoxied my teardrop and then applied 4 coats of a UV Protected polyurethane. I know of others who just used polyurethane.

The fiberglass will give strength, the epoxy will give you protection against water and the poly give you the finial sheen as well as additional protection against the elements.

Hope this helps,
Ross

by **cracker39** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 2:51 pm

If and when I build my camper, I am considering a base coat of fiberglass resin, two coats on the edges, followed by two coats of epoxy enamel sprayed on. Some years ago, I built a 12' fishing boat using just one layer of 1/4" luan ply over a 3/4" pine frame. I put glass cloth and resin on the exterior, and just resin on the interior, covered all with two sprayed coats of water/based exterior enamel. The finish held up in the water except for one flaw. My glass cloth eventually started to separate from the plywood (after 3-4 years of use). I know next time to put on a base of resin, let it cure, then put on the glass cloth with more resin.. My finish will be white with red trip (see my avatar at left). Or maybe gray trim to match my truck's color.

Dale

by **madjack** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 9:00 pm

...MinWax Clear Sheild :thumbsup:

madjack

by **doug hodder** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 10:58 pm

I'm an epoxy (West System) and automotive clear coat builder.....Doug Hodder

by **kelvin** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:27 am

Thanks Guys!

by **CncMan** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 10:07 am

Kelvin, 6oz. FG cloth would work, use epoxy resin on wood, not polyester resin. 3 coats of resin should fill the weave and allow for sanding, then top coat with a good marine spar or polyurethane with UV inhibitors, epoxy resins have NO UV inhibitors. As previously mentioned an automotive clear coat can also be used. I'm a System III dealer and boatbuilder.

Neal

by **kelvin** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 7:12 am

Thats pretty much the way I was leaning. I just recently built a wooden Pirogue and finished it this way.

by **DoWopBox** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:56 pm

doug hodder wrote:I'm an epoxy (West System) and automotive clear coat builder.....Doug Hodder

West System doesn't have a dealer here in NM, I haven't found a way to order it online yet (I've written them to see if they can sell direct).
What kind of UV inhibitor do I use with it?
Is it better to stain the wood or try to tint the epoxy?

by **asianflava** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 7:20 pm

I buy mine at West Marine. I just checked their website and it looks like there are no stores in NM. They do have a mail order option that you may want to check out.

A lot of people also reccomend Raka epoxy.
http://www.raka.com/

by **Steve Frederick** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 7:57 pm

I build without any mouldings or trim. Fiberglass adds an extra mechanical element to the joints. I run the 'glass around the roof/wall joints, as well as, panel seams. I won't build a totally wood camper without it!
As was mentioned, epoxy is NOT u-v resistant. I've been using Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish. The next one's getting automotive clearcoat.
As for epoxy, I've used Raka Products for years. Good products, great service, priced right too! I'm very happy with the results.

by **Roly Nelson** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:25 am

Kelvin, if you want a flawless piano-like finish, by all means use the high-dollar methods mentioned above. If you want a poor-boy clear finish on your tear, (like mine) slap on exterior varathane with a brush, sanding between coats and it should last for sometime. However, it is going to be a continuing maintainance issue, which requires refinishing every year to keep it looking like new. Even with the price of varathane, about 45 bucks a gallon, I have about as much invested as if I would have covered it with aluminum. Good luck on your staining and finishing efforts.

Roly ~~ :thinking:

by **Joanne** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 3:03 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:I build without any mouldings or trim. Fiberglass adds an extra mechanical element to the joints. I run the 'glass around the roof/wall joints, as well as, panel seams. I won't build a totally wood camper without it!
As was mentioned, epoxy is NOT u-v resistant. I've been using Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish. The next one's getting automotive clearcoat.
As for epoxy, I've used Raka Products for years. Good products, great service, priced right too! I'm very happy with the results.

I'm using RAKA epoxy on my trailer. It's expensive, but still a bunch cheaper than West Systems. Even if it's not the same quality as the high dollar stuff (and I don't know if it is or isn't), it's more than adequate for my trailer.

I'll be painting my trailer rather than leaving it clear coat.

Joanne

by **DoWopBox** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 10:53 pm

asianflava wrote:I buy mine at West Marine. I just checked their website and it looks like there are no stores in NM. They do have a mail order option that you may want to check out.

A lot of people also reccomend Raka epoxy.
http://www.raka.com/

How many gallons does it take to get good coverage on the sides only of a 4x8 teardrop?

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