Titebond III glue for sandwich sides

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

solid or sandwich

Postby Chris D » Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:02 am

wannabe,

My take would be that you did alot of extra work and saved not much if any weight with sandwich construction,plus if you did solid walls you might be camping right now Thats da object here right? well just my opinion you know what they say about opinions :lol:
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Postby fseider » Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:22 am

wannabefree - I like those clamps you put together for the sides! I looked at your pics and I'm sure I can duplicate those. Any other info to share about them?

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Fred
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Postby wannabefree » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:53 am

Re: Panel clamps - nothing special. MIne are 2x3s, a couple plywood gussets on each end, and bolts through the gussets to hold the fourth side in the gussets so I can put the clamps around the panel. Use T nuts and allthread for the screws. Not much to it. Lots of people here use gravity to clamp their panels, but we don't have much of it around here. :lol:

Seriously, if you have a garage full of heavy stuff, gravity works well. My back gets weary and I don't like bending over a lot, so I did this. I also expect to use them again. For a one-off, with a healthy back, gravity works.

Re: Titebond - true, an adhesion test will tell you if it will fail structurally. Titebond and other reputable companies do accelerated life tests and if you use the glue the way they recommend, on compatible materials, it will not fail for a very long time.

Re: Sandwich - yep, lots more work, little payoff, not camping yet. Bummer. Of course, this is also about pushing my limits technically. But I'd still rather be camping.
In anything at all, perfection is finally attained not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer anything to take away.
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Postby reiltear » Sat Dec 13, 2008 1:38 am

Has anyone tried this?
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Postby GPW » Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:35 am

We've made many laminated English longbows with T2 and T3 ... never a failure in making these most torturous of all wooden devices... a wooden spring....
My guitar making pal uses it for all major assembly... No glue failures there ,even when his guitars got a month long soaking during Katrina... Titebond is good stuff !!!!! :thumbsup:
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Postby tk » Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:10 am

The blue or pink insulating board reacts with solvents such as acetone. Try pouring some on a little piece of scrap: it just sort of dissolves away. So, if you use a glue such as Liquid Nails you have to use a really light coat, and that makes it difficult to make contact between the two surfaces.

When I worked for an RV manufacturer, we used the following process: The wall frame was constructed of 1.5" welded aluminum tubing with two-by nailers where transverse walls cabinets, etc. were to be attached. The voids were filled with tightly fitted blue board. The whole exterior panel was sprayed with a contact adhesive as was the frame and insulation panels. The frame was then laid on the exterior and the insulation placed in the voids. The whole thing was run through a laminating roller press. The process was then repeated with the interior side and the interior paneling.

I know most of us don't have a 10' wide roller press in our garage, but using the gravity method works fine. Or use a vinyl flooring roller. And, I know, contact adhesive has acetone in it, but the amount you are applying is so small that it only causes small dimples in the insulation. Trust me, I've tried to tear this stuff apart. Another drawback: using aerosol cans of contact adhesive can be prohibitively expensive. It might be cheaper to buy a cheap HF spray gun and use a quart can of contact adhesive.

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Tom
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