Primer before contact cement?

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Primer before contact cement?

Postby Gerdo » Sat Jul 16, 2005 10:02 am

Is it best to primer the wood before you apply contact cement for the skin?
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Postby ralaco » Sat Jul 16, 2005 11:26 am

Gerdo

Never seal where you are going to use any glue.

;)

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Postby IraRat » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:04 am

ralaco wrote:Gerdo

Never seal where you are going to use any glue.

;)

Raul


Well, I haven't been following THIS rule.
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Postby madjack » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:24 am

...neither have I, Ira. WE have prefinished/sealed almost all components of the Alligator Tear, however when we glue up something that has a finish/seal on it, we use a urethane based glue...so far I have seen no problems. Some adhesives do not work well on raw wood, some do not handle finishes well, it all depends on what you are gluing and what you are gluing with
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Postby Gerdo » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:49 am

So with contact cement is it best to seal the wood or leave it un-sealed?
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Postby madjack » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:55 am

...if using old fashioned contact cement(non water based) I would say leave it unsealed and use the contact cement as both seal and adhesive.

IMHO & YMMV(legal discalimers ;) )

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Postby IraRat » Sun Jul 17, 2005 11:03 am

On my exterior skins, which are bradded all along the perimeters anyway, I presealed with varnish and used a ton of Titebond II to secure. (It was cool watching that glue drip down onto the frame and tires.)

I guess if you're using a poly glue, usually requiring water prep to activate, and you had like 100% coverage with that glue, you wouldn't have to seal first.

But what are the chances that you're going to be able to adequately cover every square inch of the surface with that glue?

I figure the way i did it, the worst that could happen is I MAY have a tiny bulge somewhere that I can fix with a brad.
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Postby madjack » Sun Jul 17, 2005 11:20 am

...Ira, some poly adhesives require water to activate them(gorilla glue) some use atmospheric moisture(humidity) to activate(Sikaflex) and some are 2 part adhesives requiring a primer
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p.s. not all adhesives, even in the same category, work the same way...always read the instuctions(I know, I know) for proper uses and applications
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Postby Mark » Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:31 am

What do you think about varnishing the wood prior to applying outdoor carpet adhesive to hold the aluminum? Do you think it's a waste of time?
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Postby madjack » Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:50 am

...having no experience with the carpet adhesive I really can't advise one way or another. However, the sides of our tear have 3 coats of polyurethane on them and in the debate over carpet adhesive Vs. Sikaflex(or something similar) that has not even entered the conversation
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Postby Ken A Hood » Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:00 pm

Doesn't all glue/adhesive eventually break down? (The bond I mean between the wood and aluminum). My understanding (limited) is that the glue/adhesive will hold the aluminum side till all the corner trim/window/door etc. is installed to hold the edges.........floating the aluminum. Since wood and aluminum expand/contract at different rates, it's only a matter of time before contact cement (rigid adhesives) fail. I'm not sure about the flexible adhesives.

Sealing the sides (varnish) is done to protect the wood SHOULD any water get behind/underneath the aluminum sides/top/trim......or that's the way it was explained to me.... :o


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Postby Chris C » Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:01 pm

IraRat,

I really don't like being the bearer of bad news but..................wood glues (which, of course, includes Titebond II) soak into the fiber of the wood on both pieces and then bond the two together. If the wood is sealed first, it would be like trying to bond two pieces of non-porus materials together, like metal, and can't do it's job. Likely the only meaningful bond you'll have is the surface tension of the glue and your brads.
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Postby Chris C » Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:03 pm

IraRat, I think I misunderstood; your post. Did you mean you were attaching your aluminum with Titebond II?
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Postby IraRat » Mon Jul 18, 2005 1:53 pm

Chris C wrote:IraRat, I think I misunderstood; your post. Did you mean you were attaching your aluminum with Titebond II?


How did you bring aluminum into this? I'm not using that at all.

And don't worry about being the bearer of bad news:

Sealing my backsides on those skins, using Titebond to secure to the ply walls , and bradding all along the perimeter edges and around the door openings...where the heck is that that piece going to go?

Plus, it's not even STRUCTURAL. It's a skin.
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Postby Chris C » Mon Jul 18, 2005 2:37 pm

Okay. Sorry I brought it up.
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