Sandwich construction

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Sandwich construction

Postby GeorgeTelford » Wed Jul 20, 2005 2:10 pm

Hi all,

quite fancy a tiny travel trailer, and wanted a quick version I had an Idea to square it up somewhat, so I was delighted to find the weekender.

Really would prefer some insulation, but dont fancy doing all the framework, first idea was build plywood version, then put up insulation and cover with a thein decorative ply, Next idea was make a sandwich of 1/2" Ply glue down the insulation then glue down the interior ply ie ake the sandwich before cutting to shape (botton would have batten in atr glue stage)

Here is some 40 mm I used in my old bus project

Image

What do you all think? its pretty strong stuff.
User avatar
GeorgeTelford
500 Club
 
Posts: 677
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 2:10 pm

Postby BobR » Wed Jul 20, 2005 5:37 pm

George...the purpose of the interior framing is to provide support and to provide a place to anchor the bulkhead, doors, windows, shelves and whatever else you decide to put inside. With just the thin skins you won't be able to secure those items properly.
Bob Richert
Parrish, FL
"Be glad of life because it gives you the chance to love and to work and to play and to look up at the stars"
User avatar
BobR
Donating Member
 
Posts: 387
Images: 1
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:12 pm
Location: San Antonio, TX

Postby GeorgeTelford » Wed Jul 20, 2005 6:08 pm

Hi Bob

Thanks for replying :) I was beginning to think no-one was going to speak

All those items get fixed OK in the plain plywood weekender, why would that be any different with sandwich ? Please bear with me If I am being a little dumb.
User avatar
GeorgeTelford
500 Club
 
Posts: 677
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 2:10 pm
Top

Postby asianflava » Wed Jul 20, 2005 8:56 pm

If you're doing a sandwich wall, you will need some forethought as to where things will attach to the wall, ie bulkheads, doors, etc. You need some "meat" for the screw to attach to.

In my case I'm using 1/8" ply for both faces weight reduction was a big factor. If you are using 1/2" you may not need all the framing on the inside, just on the perimiter to act as a closeout.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont
Top

Postby Roly Nelson » Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:59 pm

Hi George, I guess I am one of the rare guys that feel that 1/4" side walls are all you need. When I built the 1/2 Nelson Woody, I wanted to keep it simple, light and cheap. All of my openings are backed with 3/4 x 1 1/2" pine members, and my cabinet bulkheads, doors, windows, shelves and such only add to the strength of the whole thing. You can check out my construction pics at: http://gages-56.com/roly.html.

Just my two cents, it has worked for me for almost 3 years and during the 5500 miles to minden and back, it held together just fine. Building thicker and heavier is fine, but what do I know, I'm just a beguinner. :D

Roly, So Cal heat sufferer.......
See the little 1/2 Nelson Woody constructions pics at: http://gages-56.com/roly.html
User avatar
Roly Nelson
L'il Ol' Woody Builder
 
Posts: 2971
Images: 13
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 12:45 pm
Location: Wildomar, Calif
Top

Postby RAYVILLIAN » Fri Jul 22, 2005 4:10 pm

I would think that a sandwich would work fine if you put some judicously placed wood where you wanted to anchor things. There was a post awhile back about doing a sandwich with plywood than foam and than plywood using frp glue and a kids swimming pool as weight to keep it together till it dried. You laid first plywood down, glued, than foam, etc. then put wax paper down to keep glue from sticking and put the pool on top and filled it with water. next day empty pool and do other panels. sounded pretty slick when I read it. I'm cinsidering it with Warrior II.Good luck.
Gary
Where ever we raise the hatch is home.
Darn blank states keep getting further away and we keep traveling slower ain't never gona get this map full.
111961Image
User avatar
RAYVILLIAN
Lifetime member
 
Posts: 1434
Images: 109
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:33 pm
Location: Rayville MO
Top

Postby mikeschn » Fri Jul 22, 2005 5:45 pm

RAYVILLIAN wrote: I'm considering it with Warrior II.Good luck.
Gary


Tell me more about this Warrior II... ;)

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 475
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby GeorgeTelford » Fri Jul 22, 2005 6:02 pm

Hi all

I was thinking of dowelling for anchor points, water is a damned fine idea for the press, would even the pressure out beautifully.

Nice site Rolly! quite a few very neat ideas shown there and lovely finished product.

Really want to keeep the speed of the weekender + Insulation joping I can avoid pick too ( to an extent anyway)

George
User avatar
GeorgeTelford
500 Club
 
Posts: 677
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 2:10 pm
Top

Postby cracker39 » Fri Jul 22, 2005 7:16 pm

Roly, great minds think alike... :applause:

That is my plan...1/4" ply, 3/4" pine framing (1 1/2" unless I need wider for some reason) with 3/4" insulation foam, then 1/8" light oak paneling on the inside. The only heavy plywood I'll use is 3/4" on the bottom. Someone estimated the 3/4" to be around 75 lbs per sheet. That would make my floor weigh about 105 lbs. Prorating the weights of the 1/4 and 1/8 based on 75 lbs for the 3/4, estimating the total area of wood, I come up with a total weight of 356 lbs forall of the plywood. The foam is neglible, and the framing shouldn't weigh more than 50-60 lbs. It wouldn't be that heavy except for those rounded corner spars and the 9' lengths of 1 1/2"x2" floor support pieces on either side of the chassis. Add another 80-100 lbs for all of the interior framing and paneling (bed supports, closet, galley counter) and the weight of the mattress, the AC, Battery, 300 lbs for chassis, and another 100 lbs miscellaneous for anything I missed, I come up with less than 1200 lbs dry weight. Heavier than a TD, but still not too bad for what I am going to have. It will still be below my max load/towing capacity for my truck (2000 lbs due to 4 cyl and auto trans).
Dale

Sometimes I pretend to be normal. But, that gets boring...so I go back to being me.

Squidget Pop Top Build Pages http://www.thesquidget.com/ptbuild/ptbuild.html

Squidget and Pop Top Plans Info and Photos: http://www.TheSquidget.com
User avatar
cracker39
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3069
Images: 233
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 2:18 pm
Location: Lake Alfred, Florida, USA
Top

Postby Ron Dickey » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:26 pm

Roly Nelson wrote: When I built the 1/2 Nelson Woody, You can check out my construction pics at: http://gages-56.com/roly.html.


If you could not pull it up try

http://www.gages-56.com/roly.html

Nice Job Roly :applause: :applause:
173882......173887
Inside almost done--Trolly top has opening windows & roof.doors need assembling--pictured above waley windows..galley 1/3 done
Cross Bow in Build Journals....http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54108
User avatar
Ron Dickey
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 3109
Images: 787
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:56 pm
Location: Central Coast, CA
Top


Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests