Which Trailer-Help

[John6012]

I have two trailers, (1)one is a REAL heavy duty 4X8 and can carry probably a literal ton. I like it because it has a "emergency brake" in that I can pull the handle on the tongue and lock the wheels. (No chocking). I started taking it apart throwing the wood away and found that there is some surface rust I have to work. The bad news is that I have to have the axle cut and rewelded moving it one foot to the rear for a Tear Drop.

(2)The second trailer I bought to replace the 4X8 utility is a 5X8, tilt bed (always wanted on to transfer the riding mower) but the axle probably won't have to be moved. Already bought windows and other stuff to build the Tear Drop on the 4X8 but no big deal to change to the 5X8 tilt. Whatcha think? go with #1 or #2? I and the wife would fit in either one and we plan on towing it ot Alaska and back....

[madjack]

...I think as soon as you build the 4fter(or sooner) you will wish you had gone with the 5ft width...I say use the 5 ft trailer if it is of suffcient capacity and build wider, sooner

madjack

[SteveH]

I agree with Jack, go wider. For a reference, take a look at this poll and you will notice a great number of folks said they wished they'd gone wider: http://tnttt.com/viewto ... viewresult

My tear is 5' wide and I wouldn't consider anything narrower if two people are to actually sleep in it.

[ALAN GEDDES]

Wider.

[beverlyt]

Alaska? Wider!

We have friends that have taken a large airstream on a couple of Alaskan trips.

I think you'll find the 5 footer more comfortable for long extended trips.

Bev

[John6012]

Just as I thought - wider. A good friend who is a welder built the 4 footer and he built it for himself so there is some sentimental value there. He'd probably be ofended anyway if I tore it down and I really don't use a trailer that much except to get a load of firewood on occasion. Besides, getting it rewelded (moving the axle back) would drive the cost way up I'd imagine. Thanks guys for the heads up.

[randy chesnutt]

for me i would go with 5ft x 10ft inside and 1 1/2" walls. that would fit my drop axles just right. fitting to the axles is important to me. i can make a bed to fit. if i would have done that this time i would not had to put in spacer for the fenders. that why we build the first one to learn from

[John6012]

How in the world can I make a 10 foot oout of my eight foot? I've thought about it but I'd need to extend the bed two feet and that would entail welding extensions to the existing frame and moving the axle back about 1 1/2 - 2 feet in order to handle the wieght balance.

[Woody]

Extend the front 24 inches with double radiuses like a Kenskill profile. That is what I did with a 8' frame and mounted a 10 ' body. I didn't have to extend nothing but the tongue to accomodate the longer trailer front

[John6012]

Do you mean have a 10' pattern and extend the radius or curve forward on the tongue 2'? Would that impact on the turning radius of the trailer somewhat? I think I'd only have around a foot remaining on the tongue. But this if I'm right seems like a good idea. Thanks

[Woody]

You will have to extend the tongue to accomadate the extra two feet. If you look at mine you will see the way I did it. I had a longer tongue made to allow the turning of the trailer.

[Chip]

John,, another way to solve the situation is to use a radius on the front and rear of the trailer, 8 to 12 inches added to the front and rear via a radius and ya got it made,,

chipper

[John6012]

Thanks Chip, I'm going to the drawing board and see what I can come up with. It's all in our head anyway until we start cutting. By the way, I bought a small converter on Ebay that is about the size of a shoe box that will keep the battery charged whether I'm in a CG or in the driveway. Maybe overkill, bu tit beats carrying a battery charger around.