Furniture builders/refinishers

Things that don't fit anywhere else...

Postby goldcoop » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:31 pm

Micro469 wrote:stain them darker.... she does'nt like the "orange patina" they've turned to.

John-

You don't have to strip the top coat if you wanna go darker.

You can simply spray right over them with Mohawk's "finish toner"

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog ... ictNbr=170

They are orange now and if you wanna go darker & more brown you'll wanna use a greener brown.

After toning you should "lock it down" with a coat of spray lacquer.

ADDED: For the GOOD stuff ALL major Furniture & Cabinet Companies use Touch Up & repair supplies from this German Co:

http://www.konigtouchup.com/

A lot of good info. in there as well!:applause:

Good Luck,

Coop
Last edited by goldcoop on Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby caseydog » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:40 pm

Nitetimes wrote:
doug hodder wrote:Rich...I've had good luck with Jasco on automotive type paints/ finishes. and Citristrip on wood finishes. It's not as hot and I think it's environmentally friendly and I know that is a major concern of yours. Doug


Don't know the Jasco but I do seem to recall the Citristrip....if I remember correctly it was supposed to work pretty good....another one for the 'to try' list. :thumbsup:

Most definitely gotta watch out for the eviro stuff, I'd spend ten times as much if it just tells me it's friendly. :roll: :roll: :roll: ;) :lol: Riiiigghhtttt


Just get some gasoline and acetone and a few other toxic chemicals, and try them all. Just remember to use way too much, and dump the waste into the creek out back after dark.

CD :D
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Postby Nitetimes » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:51 pm

caseydog wrote:
Nitetimes wrote:
doug hodder wrote:Rich...I've had good luck with Jasco on automotive type paints/ finishes. and Citristrip on wood finishes. It's not as hot and I think it's environmentally friendly and I know that is a major concern of yours. Doug


Don't know the Jasco but I do seem to recall the Citristrip....if I remember correctly it was supposed to work pretty good....another one for the 'to try' list. :thumbsup:

Most definitely gotta watch out for the eviro stuff, I'd spend ten times as much if it just tells me it's friendly. :roll: :roll: :roll: ;) :lol: Riiiigghhtttt


Just get some gasoline and acetone and a few other toxic chemicals, and try them all. Just remember to use way too much, and dump the waste into the creek out back after dark.

CD :D


Now I'm not a fanatic but I'm not that screwy either!!!! ;) ;) maybe
Rich


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Postby BILLYL » Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:24 am

Rich -

I have had good success with the Formby's stuff. It is a slow process and it looks like the stuff you are working on is vernered be careful in your sanding and make sure it is glued down well none of it is delaminating.

Bill
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Postby Nitetimes » Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:36 am

BILLYL wrote:Rich -

I have had good success with the Formby's stuff. It is a slow process and it looks like the stuff you are working on is vernered be careful in your sanding and make sure it is glued down well none of it is delaminating.

Bill


Definitely a veneer but it doesn't look like any loose stuff. The chips look like it was caught with something. The table has taken quite a bit of abuse but the buffet and china cupboard are in real good shape. The table is first on the list, need it done cause it is now taking up space. I thought it was going to be a little smaller than the table I have in the kitchen now but.....being round when closed kinda hoses me cause it is actually 10" wider than mine and only a foot shorter. So it will basically take up as much space. Only good thing is it's a little more than a foot shorter when stretched out.
Rich


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Postby Nitetimes » Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:47 am

Another thought just occurred to me...I could always finish the sides and legs and put counter top laminate on the top. :D :D ;) ;)
Rich


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Postby BILLYL » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:19 pm

Nitetimes wrote:Another thought just occurred to me...I could always finish the sides and legs and put counter top laminate on the top. :D :D ;) ;)


That could work - since you are not refinishing and restoring antiques that could be a very easy solution to your proble. You can even get a new verneer for the top and work that way......

Bill
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Postby Nitetimes » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:29 pm

BILLYL wrote:
Nitetimes wrote:Another thought just occurred to me...I could always finish the sides and legs and put counter top laminate on the top. :D :D ;) ;)


That could work - since you are not refinishing and restoring antiques that could be a very easy solution to your proble. You can even get a new verneer for the top and work that way......

Bill


Now, you are not supposed to agree with me when I say things like that.....didn't you see the little smiley dudes at the end of that statement??? :lol: :lol:

It is a thought tho. 8) 8)
Rich


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Postby martha24 » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:40 pm

Rich,
It's been awhile since I've done any furniture refinishing. On the stripping sounds like you have gotten good advice. The only thing I would add is that with taking off finishes, it does make a difference what the original finish was. Some old finishes are easier to remove than others.
There are many ways to remove an old finish, some of them more difficult than others. Shellac and lacquer finishes are the easiest to remove, requiring only alcohol or lacquer thinner and a little muscle. The tougher finishes, paint and varnish, are more common; these are usually removed with paint and varnish remover. Oil, wax, and penetrating sealer finishes are less common; they are also removed with paint and varnish remover.


With making the wood lighter, I would try regular household bleach first. It isn't as powerful as wood bleach but does work amazing well.
Once someone left something damp on my wood parquet floor and it left a very noticeable black 3" spot. :roll: The bleach took the black out and then I just had to add a little color back in and at that time there was only wax on the floor. For any wood bleaching that I have had to do, regular old Clorox (make sure it's fresh) has done the job. Test it where it won't show and keep and eye on it when you're doing it.


Personally one of the finishes I really like is Tung oil, probably wouldn't be any good for heat or dampness on table tops but the pieces that I have done with it some 20 plus years ago are still looking very good, more than I can say for a dresser I did for my son in a poly finish.
Also I would agree that Formby's products seem to be decent.
Martha ;)

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