Question on building and sealing doors

[cracker39]

I think I’ve decided to forego building my workshop and continue to work from my screened back porch. I’ll just install some roll-down shutters to keep out the rain. Why? Because I’ve realigned my priorities and want to get started on my trailer. But, I think I may wait until after hurricane season to do any wood work as I’ll have to work in an open carport or under a 10’ x 20’ vinyl canopy that normally houses my bass boat. The canopy has full sides and I can hang tarps front and back, but that won’t keep out a hurricane. I’ll build the chassis and create the sides in the carport, where I have a flat surface (the floor), then move it all to the canopy for assembly. It ain’t the perfect workshop, but it will have to do.

The reason for this post is that my one big construction concern is the building and sealing of the of the door edges and sill (frame?). Since I have a nearly normal door opening (a little shorter than standard), I may try to find a mobile home or RV pre-hung aluminum door assembly that I can just cut it down to the right height, sealing the cut-off bottom, and attach with screws. But, if I have to make my door, I’d like suggestions or links to photos as to the right way to make a tight, water-proof fit. I keep thinking of finding aluminum trim (either “L”, “U” channel, or even “Z” shaped) for both the door edges and the sill around the door, plus weather stripping, of course. Any and all suggestions or comments would be welcome.

I hope that I can complete it by late spring, 2006 as I am retired and can work nearly full time (taking time out to mow weekly, attend to the honey-do lists, get in a little fishing, etc.). Our winter here in South Central Florida is pretty mild and I think I can work on it outside most days.

[IraRat]

Oy vey, Dale. From someone who is starting his doors this week, I'll just tell you this:

Don't worry about it now. You have a long way to go to even think about it. And trying to find pre-hung doors in the size and configuration you want? Sounds like you might really be limiting yourself as to design possibilities.

Plus that fact that even if you DID find the perfect prehung doors (impossible), are you going to determine your sidewall, framing and skin thicknesses just on this criteria?

Look--I'll post photos on mine when they're done. If that doesn't inspire you to greater things, I don't know what will.

I'M AFRAID OF THESE DOORS TOO!

[madjack]

Dale, goto tjtrailers.com and look at their door and window section, you might just find what you're lookin' for also rvsurplusalvage.com is another good place to check
madjack

[cracker39]

Thanks, Jack. I got a catalog from Flagship RV on the way home today. They have entrance doors, even a 68", 70", and 72" high by 26" wide, one of which would be ideal. But, they COST!!! We're talking $337. I certainly need something cheaper. I'll check out these links you provided.

[Mark & Andrea Jones]

It depends upon your priorities - AND how soon you want to have your TD completed. We purchased our doors from http://www.cozycruiser.com/teardrop-parts.html and they're definitely not any cheaper to buy two of them! However, we also wanted to have our TD completed in less than 2 months, so we elected to purchase the doors. <NOTE: Finished the build in 6 weeks - less the cabinets in the galley. We'll work on those this winter sometime.>

I'll be honest. I LOVE those doors! All we had to do was cut the hole in the plywood, put down some caulk, insert the doors and screw them down. It was THAT easy. No fussing with the fit or anything. They work really well to provide air circulation thru the TD at night.

Two things that I might change: 1) the screen section that you open to get to the door handle is opaque white and you can't see thru it for nothin'. <we might replace it with a clear piece of plastic> 2) the locks aren't keyed alike. So, we have to keep track of two different keys and you can't just run to Lowes and get new keys made either!

We did have to notch our 6" mattress for the doors as the mattress tended to push the screen door open, if it wasn't latched securely. Not a biggie.

AJ.

[xe1ufo]

Hey:

The great and famous MexTear (Kai Hendrixson) pointed me to Kampin. They have a complete kit that includes doorframes, screendoor, hinges and latches. You just put in your own plywood and aluminum or whatever. I believe he said it ran around $135 per door. I don't have their website.

[toypusher]

Dr. Steve

Google search 'CampInn'

[cracker39]

We purchased our doors from http://www.cozycruiser.com/teardrop-parts.html and they're definitely not any cheaper to buy two of them! However, we also wanted to have our TD completed in less than 2 months, so we elected to purchase the doors.

Those look like great doors and worth the price if you want to avoid the hassle of trying to build, fit, and seal your own, and that's what I want to avoid doing if I can find the right door (and to speed up the build time). But, my trailer (see my avatar at the left) isn't a TD. The door will be 26-28" wide by 69"-72" high, depending on the final measurements when I go from paper to wood, so I have to find a "conventional" RV door that will work if I go with a "ready-made" unit. I doubt that many have tried to find what I need. That's why I am looking more for into on the builiding aspect from the forum.

Thanks for the info.

[madjack]

...Dale, didja get a chancee to checkout these door offerings
madjack

[madjack]

...and then there are these
madjack

[cracker39]

Thanks for the info, Jack. The first one was again, way too much money (close to $300). The second is much closer. They say they have used doors for $150 plus shipping. I sent them an email with my requirements to see what they have in stock. Costs are a big issue for me. My wife just told me KISS and COST are the keywords for building. I'm dropping some of the "luxury" items (water tank and electric pump for example) except for the Memory foam mattress pieces, Fantastic vent and the AC. Comfort is a criteria that I won't compromise on.

[cracker39]

PS. Sorry, they say that the doors are surplus, not used. That's even better.

[cracker39]

Well Jack, I found no responses for a door under $300. The RVsurplus site replied with one that is not my size for $175 and said shipping would be at least $125. So, I went looking again at a small surplus building supply place practically in my back yard (called Broke and Poor) and found something. They have "RV" type aluminum clad doors in aluminum frames that drop in and screw to the trailer sides. I found one with pebbled aluminum finish, 30"x70" opening width with a 1 5/16" wide flange around it for $96 plus tax. It has no screen door or window and needs painting white, but for the price, I'm getting it. It fits between my bed end and galley (just barely) and I can put in an 18"w x 27" high sash tyupe window for about $20. I've seen window screen material that will fit into an opening with velcro somewhere, and can make one of those if I want a screen so that I can open the door for more air.

They also have mobile home single hung sash windows, 40" w x 21" h for $29 and 40" x 21" for $25. These are simple, single pane, unpainted aluminum frame, with screens in the lower half. They also have a flange that screws into the trailer side It may not be fancy, but it works for me...IT'S CHEEEEEEP. I can outfit my trailer with all four windows (two large, two small) for abount $100. I may even put one in front of the galley, facing forward.

[RAYVILLIAN]

Hey Cracker
Go look at the solid core storm doors at Home Depot, the cheaper ones. I haven't looked at price lately but they are easy to cut down in height. Just take the bottom and side frame work off, cut the core to length and remiter the side peices and reassemble. If you started with a 32 inch door I think you could cut it down in width the same way, but I've never tried it.
Gary

[cracker39]

That sounds like a lot of work. The one I found is regular door thickness and is already drilled for a standard lock set. I'll have to beef up the door frame in the side of the trailer, or shim out the door mounting to make the lockset bolt center on my 1 1/8" thick side wall, but I know I can make it work. I could use a thicker frame around the door edge. Cutting an opening in the door to fit in a window won't be a problem either. I may have to remove some foam and fit in some frameing just inside the cut edges to securely hold the window flange screws. I'm trying to keep costs down, but also will trade off some additional cost for less work.

I recieved an email today from Kevin in TX. He visited a shop that builds teardrop campers, www.happitrails.com using a lightweight laminate of .05 fiberglass sheet, 2" foam, and 1/8" plywood. There's no framing except where they need to add some wood for screw/nail points inside the panel. I emailed the owner and he wouldn't tell me how they achieved a curved panel. He said that is proprietary...spoil sport.

So, I'm staying with my framed walls, but will consider a FG sheet skin before I do start building. But, I'll probably stay with the 1/4" plywood. Has anyone built with 1/8" plywood inside and outside? If I did, I'd make the framing 1" to 1 1/2" thick, not 3/4". Then, it probably wouldn't be any lighter, just easier to curve and have more insulation. That would be a good tradeoff.