Wiring a new Teardrop for 110v

[Uncle Chan]

Hola,

I've a new Mobi 68 Ultra. Nice tear, but is wired only for 12v. I would like to put some 110v in it for running a hot plate, a heater, maybe a DVD player. What I was considering is drilling a hole outside-in and installing an electrical access hatch and just running a heavy duty extension cord to shore power and at the other end, a heavy duty power strip. I don't think I'll max out any more than 20amps total because I won't have everything on a the same time.

What do you think? I'm no wiring genius, but I'm no dolt either. So, I can do a bit more if needed.

Advice?

Uncle Chan

[packerz4]

why drill a hole? just run the cord to the open hatch.

[tinksdad]

Not being familiar with your particular trailer, can you find a small space to build an enclosure? I gave up about 4" across the back of my galley to add the 110 after the trailer was built. No disrespect to the previous poster; but I did the extension cord through the open hatch one campout... and didn't like it.




The left side of the addition houses the visible GFCI in the galley, the regular plug that goes through to the cabin and a circuit breaker. A regular RV power connection enters the side of the trailer into my addition. The right side is just a covered storage bin and the center holds whatever I want to stand up in it that will fit (i.e. paper towels, pepper mill, etc.)

[Miriam C.]

why drill a hole? just run the cord to the open hatch.

If you are only going to use the 120vAC when in the galley you don't really need a hole. If you are wanting to use it through an access when the galley is closed then drill away. Remember that you can get power strips with GFCI and a breaker included. Watch your amps on a hot plate. Get a good outside rated 14/3 gage power supply should do it.

[Uncle Chan]

Good evening everyone. Thanks kindly for the information. I've done the extension-cord-through-the-door thing before. I won't do that again. But thanks for the suggestion.

Here are a couple pics of the setup:





I'm thinking about drilling through the upper side of the TD so the hole goes into the cabinets up top. This way the power cord is out of the way. Tinksdad, normally, I would be all over your suggestion, but the galley is not the best designed part of the TD and to loose any of it would be a shame. Still.....a person would only need to loose about 6 inches, especially if you put a male receptacle in the TD and ran an extension cord from shore to TD. Then, I'd just need to run power to a couple plugins. Hmmm...............

Ideally, it would be nice is a portable RV solution was available. I would like something like:

shore power >30amp cable>30amp male inlet on TD>30amp box > 2 15amp breakers and outlets.

[HobbyTalk]

You can purchase Electrical inlets from many sources for easy access to the 110v wiring.

[bobhenry]

If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion. A chase under the counter attached to the back wall and the underside of the countertop. Outlets could be cut thru to the sleepy side as well as accessable for the galley without loosing valuable cabinet space. This application would not detract from the look of that beautiful galley. Outlets could be built into the chase box or you could sneak a 4 outlet box into the side of the sink cabinet or drill thru the counter and install the same box on the left sidewall just above the counter. They make a counter outlet box

( remember back to high school science lab)

[Miriam C.]

If you are going with an inlet then a marine one will do. They are about $11 and round. You can put these anywhere. Now your hot plate will use around 8amps for 1 burner so you could stick with 20 amps. It will be much cheaper than a 30 amp inlet.

[dreadcptflint]

I have been thinking about a electrical upgrade for a while with my Mobi as well. My suggestion is creating a mirror space opposite of the sink or drop a box on the tongue. It depends on how much additional gear you want to add. (I am looking at a charger and battery storage for an solar panel). While you have the silcon out be sure to check your other entry points on my trailer I filled in some space around the plumbing.

[cuyeda]

While on this topic of adding this style outlet... How does this perform in rain conditions? I fear that water will drip into the outlet and cause a problem. With that said, I mounted the same outlet underneath the trailer attached next to the frame, mounted to road side floor. The downside is plugging into the outlet blindly, but after a few practices, I can do it without looking at the outlet orientation. Plus, I didn't have to drill an extra unsightly hole into my 1957 trailer.

[Miriam C.]

While on this topic of adding this style outlet... How does this perform in rain conditions? I fear that water will drip into the outlet and cause a problem. With that said, I mounted the same outlet underneath the trailer attached next to the frame, mounted to road side floor. The downside is plugging into the outlet blindly, but after a few practices, I can do it without looking at the outlet orientation. Plus, I didn't have to drill an extra unsightly hole into my 1957 trailer.

Cliff you can get those for outside at Lowes and homedepot. Just be careful with the screws. If you put them in too tight you will dent the cover. You are right about the hole. I wish I had done mine under too.

[Uncle Chan]

Thanks all for the input. Miriam, I really like the 20amp Marine Inlet. Most likely that is the route I will go. It doesn't require a 3 1/2 inch hole.

dreadcptflint, I thought about that spot too. But, the Mrs. doesn't want power on the inside that low. We'll probably put it through the cabinets, up high. Oh, and I spoke with Justin (Mobi builder) today, he told me that there is no wiring on the driver's side, so you can drill where ever you want. Just an FYI.

Uncle Chan