Greetings from Portland, OR + Aluminum Question

[MG]

Hello. I started my first build almost one month ago and have lost count of how many times previous posts have saved me from turning into this guy


Thanks to those who have shared your experiences.

I've been researching aluminum skins over the past week and have been leaning toward using .040" 5005-H34 Clear Anodized Aluminum. The downside is the $$$ compared to mill finish. After reading debates on the issue, I feel that it may be worth it in the long run. Any further thoughts?

I can buy 5052 aluminum locally and have it anodized locally. This option will be cheaper than buying 5005 anodized from SAF (with shipping factored in). Is 5052 much different than 5005?

My third option is to go in on an order with someone from the Portland area. SAF ships for FREE when the shipping weight is 100 lbs or more. This would save us each $125!!! Any Portland builders out there who want to go in on an aluminum order? Thanks in advance for your input.

[kennyrayandersen]

The 5052-H32 is the most common of the low-level structural alloys and is stronger than the 5005. Besides a teardrop, I’m going to build a car [one day] – this is the alloy that I’m going to use. It’s the cheapest ‘good’ alloy that seems to be widely available. It’s about as good as it gets unless you go to a more structural alloy like 2024. It can be welded if needed.


From Mil-HDBK-5H: 5052 is a low-strength Al-Mg alloy but extremely tough at low temperatures as well as at room temperature. It is highly resistant to corrosion.

I should note that it is only low strength compared to other high strength alloys, but still much stronger than the standard cosmetic aluminums like the 3003 and 5005 alloys by more than 50%!

So, if it cheaper to anodize locally, I'd get the 5052 (probably H32, though H34 would also work and is slightly stronger, but bends a little less easy (but no problem for the kind of bends on a tear)).

[MG]

Thanks kenny, that's some good information to go on.

[jdaan]

Can I ask where you sourced the 5052 Aluminum in PDX? And where you would have it anodized as well?

I haven't decided yet what route to take with aluminum, but there is some chance I'll be ordering from SAF, and live in Portland. I would also like to go with anodized but SAF doesn't seem to carry it in sheets over 4', and my tear is 4 1/2' wide. Maybe buying mill sheets and having it anodized locally is the answer.

Thanks

Justin

[LMarsh]

I couldn't find a single place locally that dealt with ANY anodized aluminum. What kind of places would you check with to anodize mill sheets?

Also if I remember right, SAF told me their anodizing tub-thing whatever, was too small to do 5' wide sheets. Anyone know where to get anodized 5'?

[Classic Finn]

The 5052-H32 is the most common of the low-level structural alloys and is stronger than the 5005. Besides a teardrop, I’m going to build a car [one day] – this is the alloy that I’m going to use. It’s the cheapest ‘good’ alloy that seems to be widely available. It’s about as good as it gets unless you go to a more structural alloy like 2024. It can be welded if needed.


From Mil-HDBK-5H: 5052 is a low-strength Al-Mg alloy but extremely tough at low temperatures as well as at room temperature. It is highly resistant to corrosion.

I should note that it is only low strength compared to other high strength alloys, but still much stronger than the standard cosmetic aluminums like the 3003 and 5005 alloys by more than 50%!

So, if it cheaper to anodize locally, I'd get the 5052 (probably H32, though H34 would also work and is slightly stronger, but bends a little less easy (but no problem for the kind of bends on a tear)).

Kenny a question came to mind since you were speaking of alloy. Would you by chance know the alloy of the most commonly used edge moulding there in the USA? Since its quite soft to bend.

Classic Finn

[MG]

Can I ask where you sourced the 5052 Aluminum in PDX? And where you would have it anodized as well?

I haven't decided yet what route to take with aluminum, but there is some chance I'll be ordering from SAF, and live in Portland. I would also like to go with anodized but SAF doesn't seem to carry it in sheets over 4', and my tear is 4 1/2' wide. Maybe buying mill sheets and having it anodized locally is the answer.

Thanks

Justin

I have contacted several suppliers, both locally and in other areas, and finally found what I've been looking for. There's a place in Portland called Coast Aluminum (they have a few stores along the west coast) & they sell .040" 5005-H34 Clear Anodized Aluminum. And the prices are reasonable. I asked the salesperson if they sell wider than 4' and he said not in anodized.

I found three local aluminum suppliers that are worth checking out based on materials, prices and customer service. Alaskan Copper & Brass, Ryerson, and Coast Aluminum. SAF has also been very helpful over the phone.

The local place I found for anodizing is Electro-Chem Metal Finishing. There are a few others but this place could handle 4x10 sheets which the others I contacted couldn't. I just googled "anodizing portland" and a list popped up. I don't have any info on 5' wide suppliers or anodizers. My teardrop will be 4' wide.

[kennyrayandersen]

The 5052-H32 is the most common of the low-level structural alloys and is stronger than the 5005. Besides a teardrop, I’m going to build a car [one day] – this is the alloy that I’m going to use. It’s the cheapest ‘good’ alloy that seems to be widely available. It’s about as good as it gets unless you go to a more structural alloy like 2024. It can be welded if needed.


From Mil-HDBK-5H: 5052 is a low-strength Al-Mg alloy but extremely tough at low temperatures as well as at room temperature. It is highly resistant to corrosion.

I should note that it is only low strength compared to other high strength alloys, but still much stronger than the standard cosmetic aluminums like the 3003 and 5005 alloys by more than 50%!

So, if it cheaper to anodize locally, I'd get the 5052 (probably H32, though H34 would also work and is slightly stronger, but bends a little less easy (but no problem for the kind of bends on a tear)).

Kenny a question came to mind since you were speaking of alloy. Would you by chance know the alloy of the most commonly used edge moulding there in the USA? Since its quite soft to bend.

Classic Finn

My guess is probably a 3000 series aluminum (or maybe 1000) both are very soft and easily bent which is what you want in that application -- not really a lot of load there!

[jdaan]

Thanks for the info. I'll give the places a call.

Justin

[boardhead]

I bought the aluminum sheets, angle, etc, for my tear from Pacific Metal Company in Tualatin, OR. It was $70 each for 4x10 sheets of .032.

Didn't have it anodized - just used it. Good luck with your build.

[Gaston]

hi guys
craigs list person has sheets of 304 stainless 4x10 24gage I think for 60$$ ( 45$$ for 4 or more) a sheet I have emailed him for an address and phone # do I can check it out. I have to leave for the Bahanas May 5th so if I don't get the info by then, I'll post what I do have here .

[kennyrayandersen]

hi guys
craigs list person has sheets of 304 stainless 4x10 24gage I think for 60$$ ( 45$$ for 4 or more) a sheet I have emailed him for an address and phone # do I can check it out. I have to leave for the Bahanas May 5th so if I don't get the info by then, I'll post what I do have here .

That sounds pretty cheap -- I saw it for as high as $161 for 304 stainless