Laredo wrote:Thanks, Mike.
I'm watching you build the insulated weekender on the other topic.
Is the framing contributing to a significant difference in the amount of plywood you're using?
Yes, Instead of buying 8 sheets of oak plywood I'll end up with 7 sheets of 1/4" luan, and 1 sheet of 5/8" plywood for the floor. Same number of sheets but a lot less money. So I'll spend some of that money on pine... Pine is definitely lighter than plywood, which is my ultimate goal.
Laredo wrote:What if, instead of stick-building your framing, you draw it out on a ply sheet and cut out the openings for your insulation? Does this increase or decrease the complexity of the building vs. a stick-built frame (quicker? harder?) and does the gain in sturdiness of the frame compensate for the added weight? If you do this with, say, 3/4'' ply, can you then use the cutouts as source material for cabinet sides, shelves, and doors?
Yes I thought about that too. The biggest drawback to using plywood like that is that you can't use the extruded polystyrene insulation in there. You would have to go with a beadboard insulation and sand a little off, or use fiberglass batting insulation, which doesn't have near the R value that the extruded polystyrene does.
Other than that, starting with 3/4" plywood would definitely make things easier. And yes you could use the cutout material for doors and other things. You'll end up being slightly heavier with plywood framing instead of pine framing, but if you're trying to make your building easier, that is definitely one way to do it. I also don't think it's the cheapest way to go, but then if you compare it to the cost of a new T@B, you're thousands of dollars ahead. And you'd be able to build the body of the Weekender in a weekend!

Mike...
P.S. Do you think I should put up a photo album of the Weekender, a detailed web page with the Weekender, or just post the photos and information here on the board?
