Tube Steel Frame--how do I drill it?

[Mightydog]

This is a real teardrop noobie question:

Mrs. Dog and I had a tube steel frame trailer built for our project. It has gussets for the stabelizers on the corner. So I went to my local Home Depot and picked up a 3/8-inch Rigid Carbide drill bit.

I drill, and drill, and drill, and drill and can't get much more than 1/16 or so into the hole. I see them drill holes on harder stuff than this on TV. What's the trick that I'm missing?

We have to drill holes to put the deck on the frame. Without them, the project is at a standstill.

[Endo]

Drill a small pilot hole first.

Use some oil on your drill bit, it should also make the drilling much easier.

After the pilot hole is drilled the 3/8 inch hole will go much faster!

[doug hodder]

Also slow your drill down if you can, if it's variable speed...definately do a pilot hole first...Doug

[JunkMan]

Use some oil on your drill bit, it should also make the drilling much easier.

I bought some stuff several years ago at a NAPA store that was called "Mystic Metal Mover" or something similar. It is real thin, not like oil, but really helped when drilling large holes, and was fantastic when used while tapping holes. Came in a yellow can with a blue label. Not sure if it is availible everywhere, but it was some real handy stuff!

[Steve Frederick]

WD-40, spray it as you drill, smaller holes, then larger. Go slow, moderate pressure. My favorite drill bit is a uni-bit, or step bit. It starts at 3/16" or so, up to 1/2" or even 3/4". They work well on metal thickness 1/4" or less. After the first step, go at a faster speed, not like a regular drill bit.

[Mightydog]

WD-40

That, duct tape and tie-wraps (zip wraps) can fix anything!

Thanks for the help, everyone!

[bledsoe3]

M.D. Glad to see you've started you tear. There are several around the area. Maybe next spring we should have a gathering somewhere close for those of us in the Portland area. Good luck on your build.

[st]

Drill isn't in reverse?? Just checking.........

[m&devans]

Hi,
use a high speed drill or a titanium coated drill, carbide drills are designed for concrete not steel

[asianflava]

I just drilled 1/2in holes in my tongue (thru a weld) to attach the coupler. When we built my frame I didn't have bolts for the coupler so my buddy just filled the holes with weld. I never felt comfortable with this so I drilled thru the weld to install a bolt.

I used a 1/2in titanuim bit with a stepped down shank so that I could use my 3/8in drill. I drilled an 1/8in pilot because the big bit would dance around the uneven weld. I drilled on low speed with a lot of pressure. My 12V cordless drill wasn't happy but it did the job.

BTW: my 10yr old 12V Bosch blows away my 3 year old 14.4 Ryobi both in power and longevity.

[Steve_Cox]

Hi,
use a high speed drill or a titanium coated drill, carbide drills are designed for concrete not steel

Yeah.... that's what I was thinking too. Also if your frame is made of 2" box tubing like so many here are, you might want to get a 3/8" X 6" high speed bit so you can drill through the floor, woodframe and trailer frame at the same time. That's the way I did it anyway.

Steve in St Augustine

[Nitetimes]

You could also use these fasteners to bolt the deck to the frame, they are what I am using. One man operation and very effective.
bottom of page on left
Also no bolts and nuts hangin out the bottom to snag things and rust.

[JunkMan]

You could also use these fasteners to bolt the deck to the frame, they are what I am using. One man operation and very effective.
bottom of page on left
Also no bolts and nuts hangin out the bottom to snag things and rust.

Those are nice, I might have to try to find some locally for my floor. Too bad they don't come shorter than 1 1/2", 3/4" or 1" would be plenty to fasten 1/2" plywood.

[Nitetimes]

Those are nice, I might have to try to find some locally for my floor. Too bad they don't come shorter than 1 1/2", 3/4" or 1" would be plenty to fasten 1/2" plywood.

I agree, but those are about the only sizes I've seen except longer ones. Depending on the thickness of the steel I'm using them in I will usually either cut the excess off with a cutoff wheel or smack them with a hammer and break off the excess (on thicker steel).
They are nice when using tubing because you don't have to drill all the way thru and buy long bolts.
They are particularly appealing to me because I get them free. Always a good thing.

[JunkMan]

Nitetimes,

Free is good

I wouldn't care how long they were if the price was right. I talked to a guy tht was putting a new floor in a horse trailer and he was using them. He really liked them. Even though they were a little pricy, he said the torx head drove in real nice (unlike phillips heads that tend to slip) and they held great. I'm getting ready to mount my floor, so will have to see what I can find locally. Since they will be going into 2" x 2" square tube, I guess the excess won't be any problem.