Our good friend the ole door hinge!

[2bits]

I have been having a couple of conversations with my fellow Texas brethren and I thought this might deserve a thread of it's own since it looks like I may have found an excellent solution to our problem. We have doors with T molding trim and did not use a piano hinge. I was going crazy looking for a hinge that would screw into the door, go up-and-over the trim and screw into the body. It needed to be strong, thick, stainless steel and not outrageously expensive.

I may have found the perfect solution for those wanting an outer hinge that needs to clear trim!



I just had a thought just now and I am going to call the manufacturer back tomorrow and ask them how snug the hinge is since it will be mounted vertical. I don't want the door sagging or wobbling. With two of them, it looks like it will be a pretty sweet option, and it has a release pin so the door will still be removable if needed. At this vendor, they are $14 and $6 flat shipping rate (which is a deal right there too).

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Hinges-SEA_DOG_LONG_REACH_HATCH_HINGE.html

I'll let you know the reply I get and any updates/installs that happen with them.

[Duane King]

Are you concerned that you won't be able to lock your cabin because someone could pull the pins to gain access?

[2bits]

Actually I am not, any hinge that is external like this you can easily rip out of the wood with a flathead screwdriver anyway, and that is the way thieves think... "Rip it open". Or smash the window and open the door from the inside. Unfortunately, someone could just manhandle the crap out of the door handle and force it to split the wood and rip the whole handle apart and get in. I think disassembling the hinges while true is quieter, is probably second on their list to ripping the hinges off the body because it is quicker. These hinges don't really "look" like quick release hinges, but anyone already with a mindset to get in, is gonna get in. They did advertise that you could put a little padlock on the release pin loop but that might just advertise that they were release pins then. Something to ponder...

I like your license plate frame! ! ! "If you lived here, you'd be home by now"

[kennyrayandersen]

You could always solder the ring solid – it’s not a quick disconnect, you have to remove the ring like a key ring if I’m seeing it right. To thwart that, just solder it. Like you say all you are trying to do is not make it worth their time and slow them down – if they want to get in they will – no need making it too easy for them though.

[looped]

drill a small hole and safety wire it or use a small SS cotter pin.

[Arne]

In situations like this, I put dowels in the door and holes in the jamb. Kind of like a bank vault. When the door closes, the dowels go into the holes and secure the door even if the hinge is removed.

[2bits]

Well, I called the manufacturer today and he said there was like 1/1000 clearance in the hinge so there may be a slight looseness but with two hinges it would be negligible. Sort of a try it and see deal so I went off and bought four of them for $65 shipped. I'll mount them on some test pieces if I have any concerns at all once I receive them. I feel pretty good about it working good and I really like the ideas for securing the quick release into a "slow release" hinge!

I like the idea of soldering the ring solid, you are seeing it right Kenny. that way I can get a pair of snips and still be able to remove the doors if I ever need to.

Arne I will ponder your dowel idea, that is very creative WOW!

[Arne]

If you have any door sag..... I put furniture plastic slides under the rear of my doors to support them ... takes the pressure off the hinges.

[kennyrayandersen]

If you have any door sag..... I put furniture plastic slides under the rear of my doors to support them ... takes the pressure off the hinges.

good idea Arne -- especially takes the load off going down the highway with all of the associated jostling.

[Arne]

right, if you think of the door, just hanging on the front hinges for thousands of miles and bumps, you can see why some support on the back end is a help.

on no.1 with piano hinges, I thought it would not happen... but it did. no. 2 got back end support on the build.

[2bits]

I wonder how I could do that on mine with the t molding the covers the gap on the door?

[kennyrayandersen]

Thomas,
I think you should be able to put a round on the top and flat on the bottom piece of nylon, or other plastic (any scrap just a bit thicker than the gap when the door is closed) stuck to the bottom of the door (or on the upper surface of the lower door jam) that takes up the gap plus a smidgen, which will take the load off the door.

[2bits]

Ahhh OK Permanently attach it! I get it now!

[2bits]

Well, I got my hinges today and I think that guy at the factory was talking out of his... ummm EAR... 1/1000??? I can see a good 1/16 of space and the hinge wobbles an easy 1/4" of an inch! There is NO way I can use these as is.

BUT

It got me thinking about alot of other hinges I have seen around and I think if I am able to find a sleeve to fit over the pin, and a couple of washers this thing will be perfect. They could be metal or plastic. I actually have some plastic washers for doing a faucet repair and they would almost work but are too thick, I think with a little creative sleuthing at home depot I might be able to come up with something to not only make them work, but work perfect to MY standards.

I'll let you know my results!

[atkryder]

Lowes has plastic washers and bushings in their hardware section!
Might be something worth checking into!

Good Luck
Seth