Lady Bug Winter Warrior - finally campable!

[wlivesey]

Looking good... Have you done much fiberglass work before? I haven't and am not sure how I feel about it.

[starleen2]

This is the second time I did some fiberglass work on a camper. The first time was to hide a seam in some plywood and seal the door. I also coated the sides in resin to help protect the wood. This time I took it up a notch and used the fiberglass to securely seal the edges and seams. I wanted to use as little exterior trim as possible to have some clean lines on the edges. I’ve always used butyl tape and trim to seal the seams. This time – It’s fiberglass and filler sanded smooth . I get the best of both worlds – a watertight seam and a strong exterior joint without the addition of trim to cover the edge. Yes, it’s time consuming and a LOT of sanding, but the extra effort is worth it when you consider the piece of mind concerning water penetration and the strength of the joint – plus it just looks cool to have the smooth uninterrupted curved lines. I’ve learned that when working with resins (or epoxy) – that everything you use needs to be disposable cause you only get about 30 minutes or less work time. If you decide to fiberglass parts of your build, do yourself a favor and buy a box of either latex or vinyl disposable gloves – it makes the clean up go a lot better and easier on the hands.

[Dark Horse]

The Gloves are great, a barrer creme or a tyvek type shirt/suit are fantastic for helping with the clean up as the Epoxy never touches you.
If it does Vinegar helps to emulsify the uncured Epoxy and allow and easy removal with soap and water

[jagular7]

Looking great. I like how you kept the basic walls the same dimension then added anexterior clamshell to it. This adds a tad more weight, but its in the rear and probably very acceptable.

Since you are using long piano style hinges, have you thought of a way of keeping the flip back panel and the clamshell tight? Jeep Wranglers use a rubber latch to hold their hoods down. Older CJs used a spring loaded finger type of thing. If you were to latch the flip back panel to the top and sides of the clamshell, this would provide better structural support to the clamshell and rear flip panels.

Did you provide a 'track' system as well to keep the clamshell from distorting when lifting? Or is it structurally sound not to do that? What about the distortion at the hinge of the clamshell on the roof line? With push/pull at a corner of the clamshell to raise, this will force a distortion on the structure. In time, this transposes to the fasteners at the hinge points. Relatively, though, this may be acceptable for the life expectancy of the camper itself. Practically, everything mfr'd has a life expectancy for wear and deterioratation for replacement of components or complete replacement.

[starleen2]

Looking great. I like how you kept the basic walls the same dimension then added an exterior clamshell to it. This adds a tad more weight, but its in the rear and probably very acceptable.

The weight is added to the back to help with the overall weight of the camper. When the rear door panel is folded down, it distributes part of its weight to the wheels.

Since you are using long piano style hinges, have you thought of a way of keeping the flip back panel and the clamshell tight? Jeep Wranglers use a rubber latch to hold their hoods down. Older CJs used a spring loaded finger type of thing. If you were to latch the flip back panel to the top and sides of the clamshell, this would provide better structural support to the clamshell and rear flip panels.

When completed, the hatch will be supported by bolts from the side (both closed and extended). I have not installed the other two sets that are closer to the middle. When in transport the whole structure will be securely in place with the four bolts . It hard to see but the hole in the hatch when it is at rest is where the hatch will be secured with a T-nut
The rear panel will not support the rear of the hatch. Once raised, the hatch is secured and the rear flip down portion is raised and is secured to the clamshell hatch with some sliding locks.

Did you provide a 'track' system as well to keep the clamshell from distorting when lifting? Or is it structurally sound not to do that? What about the distortion at the hinge of the clamshell on the roof line? With push/pull at a corner of the clamshell to raise, this will force a distortion on the structure. In time, this transposes to the fasteners at the hinge points.

The distortion factor at the hinge is addressed by the notch after the hinge point – the bracing going across the width of the camper and the clamshell are designed around an “L” shaped laminated word structure (basically two 2X3 glued and screwed at right angles) The ends of clamshell “L” rests on the notch and the weight is transferred to the walls– and there is NO deflection or sagging at the hinge joint.
The whole clamshell is very solid due to the laminations of the plywood, tightly fitted insulation panels, and construction techniques. I take full advantage of the lateral and compression strength of the plywood and enhance it with adhesives and fiberglass at the edges. There is only a 5mm gap on each side which will be sealed by a flexible gasket to keep dust out (this will become clearer when the hatch is completed - pictures coming soon). There is no lateral distortion when raising or lowering the hatch – and the 5mm gap will be closed by the gasket

[wlivesey]

Since you are using long piano style hinges, have you thought of a way of keeping the flip back panel and the clamshell tight? Jeep Wranglers use a rubber latch to hold their hoods down. Older CJs used a spring loaded finger type of thing. If you were to latch the flip back panel to the top and sides of the clamshell, this would provide better structural support to the clamshell and rear flip panels.

When completed, the hatch will be supported by bolts from the side (both closed and extended). I have not installed the other two sets that are closer to the middle. When in transport the whole structure will be securely in place with the four bolts . It hard to see but the hole in the hatch when it is at rest is where the hatch will be secured with a T-nut

I plan on using the Jeep Wrangler style rubber latches. I'll probably use two on each side and have a track/guide system of some sort that will keep the roof lined up when in the down position. I'm not sure what I'll do with the up position yet. Bolts seem like they could be difficult to get started without cross threading. I like the idea of a latch mechanism...

[starleen2]

I thought of using the track system for alignment, but due to the arcing nature of the swing, I decided against it. I have no problem with the hatch being misaligned. The four Weekend Warrior models ( 2 that I personally looked) at had no such tracking system and seemed to do just fine. None of them commented on misalignment problems – It mostly centered around the sealing of the hinge area and the gap that is often left when the hatch is raised – addressed by the two inch offset. I have a 5mm gap ( the width of a single sheet of 5mm ply)on both sides and really pushing the 80” inch wide rule ( I don’t want to have run additional lights). A track system, unless integrated into the both the side and the hatch would result in a gap more than 5mm on each side, plus additional weight. I say, if your comfortable with it and you budget supports it, then go for it, but for me, I don’t want to be at the campsite wrestling with a jammed track system – so I’m not putting one in.

Gary (rayvillian) has his latched down, but when the hatch is extended; the rear top portion swings down into place and holds the hatch up just fine. I’ll add a mechanism that drops down to hold the hatch up while securing it to the sides. I didn’t want to go this way because I wanted the door not to be in two pieces and swing independently of each other. The drawback is that Gary can open his door with the hatch closed, I cannot. Gary already had a two piece door salvaged from another source. It too will have a small latch at the bottom to securely fasten the hatch down during transport, but I’ll also use the bolts too.

What I would recommend is a sturdy area for the hinge joint and that will reduce any misalignment issues

[starleen2]

Here’s a pict of the underside of the hinge joint to clarify how the beam rests on the notch. – The edges are sanded to a curve to ease the pivot



The rear flip up portion is secured to the sides by two barrel locks (one on each side)


To help reinforce the pass through for the bolt, I installed fender washers.

And secured the t-nuts with screws

Now here is the gasket material I mentioned earlier – It is vinyl covered foam door weather striping. It does the job nicely and remains flexible. I found at Lowes during a search for suitable materials.

Here it is installed on the sides

And on the rear panel

Its flexible properties allow it to remained sealed up against the surfaces no natter where they are in the pivot cycle

Tomorrow - time to polyurethane the hatch

[starleen2]

Just a quick note – got all the interior coated with clear polyurethane sealer – even sanded out some runs left over from an attempt to spray the stuff on – This time I used a foam brush with spectacular results – Picts to follow. Got the ceiling panel in today as well – we removed the hatch to install the panels – much easier that way – the hatch didn’t seem too heavy when we too it off and was a cinch to reattach – everything lined back up (I can release my breath). Now I’m down to the small details and this is what is slowing me down – but soon it going to be red paint time and sealing the hinge! Hopefully I can get it far enough along to get it licensed and weighed (I want to be as close to finished before this happens) in the next few weeks ‘cause I’m ready to camp

[RAYVILLIAN]

Well it's about time you got to camp again.

Just kidding our doing a great job, especially with the explanation's. It shows that you work with words as a vocation.

The trailer is looking great.

Gary

[jagular7]

Thanks for the pics. They look great and fill out the ideas and concerns you had addressed earlier.

With the poly-u, will the rubbing against the seal 'wear' it out? My wife just redid the kitchen table with another 3 coats after 10 years, so probably not. Though, does the top pop-up beyond the side to get your full coverage? Or you going to pull it off to coat all surfaces?

The lock down bolt is a hex head, think you can get a handle on the head so that you don't need tools to get it screwed in?

[starleen2]

When we had the hatch off – I gave the entire interior a good coat of polyurethane sealer, so even that which does not show has a coating. The seals are light pressure so the rubbing and scuffing issues are not very prevalent (plus the sides are very smooth). Right now the bolts are hex head but edevans (clickey for thier album and WW pictures) showed me how to convert them over to a handle more like Mike’s.

[starleen2]

Finally finished the rear portion and hinge areas. Piano hinge for the door with aluminum trim to cover the door gaps. Door closes up real nice and solid - all hinges arc with no binding. The air conditioner hatch is installed and sealed

Installed some rubber on the hatch rest pads to finish them off – only thing left is to install the latch as a double securing point(for that piece of mind while travelling down the interstates)

A few pictures of the inside with the ceiling installed and it’s first coat of polyurethane.


And a close up of the rope trim.

The hatch has been ‘glassed, sanded and reinstalled – now time for some red paint, seal the main hinge, and do a test tow to get the whole thing weighed!

[mikeschn]

Aw, that sure is pretty!

Mike...

[stomperxj]

Lookin really good man... Keep it up