Stress Analysis of Wall to Floor Joint, Without Trailer Supp

[jmedclay]

[quote="kennyrayandersen"]
Even if you are going to do the floor/wall joint the way you say, I would still connect the floor to the side wall independent of the cleat. Maybe it’s not exactly necessary, but us stress guys like to see it not only light-weight, but robust. I would close out the floor with a perimeter 1x2 (2x2 at the front wall) and then I would glue and screw the side wall to the floor (with dowels or biscuits). That would be enough, but the cleat would be extra insurance and could be bolted every 12-18 inched with some ¼ inch dia bolts. That will leave you locked and loaded and FAR more robust than most commercial trailers are built (i.e. you’ll have your structural box).
:thumbsup:[/quote]

Not sure I understand.....do you mean add a 1x2 to the wall/floor intersection within the cabin?

Floor is pretty far along: 5x8 deck is glued/screwed to a perimeter framework of 2x2.5 ripped from stock on hand. The x-verse spars (2x3) are of clear DF, the longitudinal pair ripped from a couple of common 2x4 studs - they call it spruce....seemed OK for cleat duty.

[kennyrayandersen]

Not sure I understand.....do you mean add a 1x2 to the wall/floor intersection within the cabin?

Floor is pretty far along: 5x8 deck is glued/screwed to a perimeter framework of 2x2.5 ripped from stock on hand. The x-verse spars (2x3) are of clear DF, the longitudinal pair ripped from a couple of common 2x4 studs - they call it spruce....seemed OK for cleat duty.

Sorry, You were initially talking (I thought) about making a sandwich floor (thus the 1x2 close out on the edge). Since you are going with the 5/8 that doesn't apply. OK, just glue and screw and don't spare the fasteners.