How thick should the roof be?

[Arne]

Most of the 1/8 I find here is Mahogany... think that is hareder than luan, but softer than birch..

Gage, so your roof is 1-1/4 thick?

That's pretty good. I used sliced 2x4s layed flat,so I have 1/4 outside, 1.5 in the middle and 1/8 in side for 1-7/8 total....

[mikeschn]

My recomendation as I posted in the generic build thread today was either 1 layer of baltic birch or two layers of luan. (All 1/8" of course). This is designed to be painted....

There are other options of course... such as the way Gage did it, or the way Steve did it.

I just needed a rock solid option for the generic build...

Thanks for your help...

Mike...

[Gage]

Yes Ranger Rick, my roof is 1 1/4" thick, but my walls common to my sleeping area are 1 5/8" thick plus .040 alum skin. In the summer, it stays cool without AC and durning the winter, warm without a heater.

Hi Gage
The original question was not as far as I can tell "how did Gage do it?" Just struck me as odd that yousay back to original question and then ignore it yourself.
Mike was wondering
"trying to figure out if one layer of 1/8" plywood is enough to cover the generic benroy? "
and also
"But what if you only have 1 layer of 1/8" luan, and what if you only paint it, instead of putting aluminum or fiberglass on it?"

Will, I'm sure that Mike understood my answer. But if YOU would like the answer in five words or less. Then the answer is NO, and you figure out why. I built my tear to last more than a year and not come apart on a 4000+ mile trip. So build yours the way you want and ask no questions and you'll receive no 'How I did it' answers from me.

Have a good day.

[GeorgeTelford]

Hi Mike

It really surprised me how strong it was after thrashing it with rocks, I only tried beech play of course, the luan doesnt seem to have the same resilience, I was intending using luan in my future project until I saw your results.

Gage

I have just seen your reply, I questioned why you completely ignored the original question, you sure seem arrogant enough to believe yours is the only way. Of course there are other options, but you completely ignored the original request and stated what you did as though its the only way.

What I did was test it out went out and thrashed a pce of ply to see, Mike repeated the experiment and found the same.

Not questioning what you did on yours, only that its total irrelevance to the question posed here.

[Gage]

Gage
I have just seen your reply, I questioned why you completely ignored the original question, you sure seem arrogant enough to believe yours is the only way.

Aw, you read like Ira. Did you miss this line? "Just the way I did it and it worked for me."

Of course there are other options, but you completely ignored the original request and stated what you did as though its the only way.
What I did was test it out went out and thrashed a pce of ply to see, Mike repeated the experiment and found the same.

Why thrash a piece of ply? Use a little common sense and basic knowlege. If you throw rocks at anything, your going to cause damage. Even building a GENERIC Teardrop, you need strength. So 1/8" ply (no mater what type) won't work without alum skin. Even the original Benroy was built as a generic type teardrop also with alum skin for strength. So if your not going to apply alum, then use at least 1/4" ply. But then your going to have problems forming the shape you will need.

Not questioning what you did on yours, only that its total irrelevance to the question posed here.

So is that the answer you were looking for? And here I though it was Mike that had asked the question. I guess I screwed up again.

Have a good day.

[Steve Frederick]

I guess I screwed up again.

Have a good day.

I don't think so!!
Funny how folks will research and debate stuff to death! Just build it to last, and then some! Common sense works well also!
I always enjoy your thoughts!!

[GeorgeTelford]

Hi Gage

Why thrash a pce of ply?, to show that you do not HAVE to have an aluminium cover.

Even with an aluminium skin a smooth rock will do damage and a rough rock will gouge, so an alum skin is offering no extra protection, in fact the alloy skin will be harder to repair than the ply alone.

After we checked it out, Mike is adding this to the generic build

My recomendation as I posted in the generic build thread today was either 1 layer of baltic birch or two layers of luan. (All 1/8" of course). This is designed to be painted....

[Gage]

Hi Gage
Why thrash a pce of ply?, to show that you do not HAVE to have an aluminium cover.
Even with an aluminium skin a smooth rock will do damage and a rough rock will gouge, so an alum skin is offering no extra protection, in fact the alloy skin will be harder to repair than the ply alone.
After we checked it out, Mike is adding this to the generic build
My recomendation as I posted in the generic build thread today was either 1 layer of baltic birch or two layers of luan. (All 1/8" of course). This is designed to be painted....

Oh brother, I give up. I just can't believe that there are two Ira's on the same board. And by the way George, how is your teardrop coming along I suppose your another one who has never seen a teardrop except for in pictures, but knows everything. Sorry, just the way I see it.

And as a side note. Did you ever think about using Masonite? I mean after all, in the early days of teardrop building. When they didn't want alum, they used Masonite. Pretty strong stuff when used correctly.

Have a good day.

[madjack]

...opinions are just like a$$h0!es...everybody has one and they are all different(so I have been told) and hey they all work(constipation of the body and mind excepted)
SO respect the other guys and MAYBE he will respect yours

madjack

p.s. just remember that off topic posts, random thoughts and unsolicited advice are so regular on this board as to be commonplace and normal

[GeorgeTelford]

Hi Gage

This started as a simple observation that what you did, bore no relevance to the question asked.

The question was will a single layer of 1/8th play work.

You decided to tell us what Gage did, Duh !

So far Gage I have only worked on motorhomes and caravans, I am qualified in woodwork and engineering, I until recently owned a metal fabrication business and have built boat trailer's for a manufacturer in UK, but I have a willingness to learn, experiment and think. You seem to think yours is the only way, as evidenced by nearly every post you make.

BTW yours is a fine example of teardrop building, I am most impressed, I appreciate the fact that you will have a great store of knowledge and experience to pass on. The only thing I disagree with is that you think because you did it one way, thats the only rightway to do it, well thats how you come across in your posts.

[madjack]

...George, lighten up a bit and let your stiff upper lip sag a little...it will help you pass some of that gas and maybe even have a little fun...just like the rest of us mere mortals
madjack(always havin' fun..try it you'll like it)

[GeorgeTelford]

Hi Jack

You are right I am taking this too far

Regards

George

[Arne]

I would seriously consider using 1/8", since I use cpes and uniflex. Coating with a saturating expoxy strenthens the wood noticeably. In the front of mine, I have several spots where the 2 layers of 1/8" are not touching (bad building technique).. and though I can push the outside layer in, it takes a bit of doing and during normal conditions, except like pushing the trailer around, I see no reason why 1/8 would not work.

But, the caveat is I would put additional stringers in cut from 1/2" ply for rigidity.... so I would have rafters for nailing and additional stringers for rigidity. So, on the curve, say 16" between nailers with a stringer midway between..... on the flat top, I'd go 12" nailers with stringer in between.....

So, why bother.? Stringers are much easier to put in that a second sheet of 1/8, and I think it might be a bit lighter.... but I do think using cpes and uniflex is the key, at least for me. And I would make the separation at least 1.5 inches for strength.

My 1,140 pound surprise yesterday has me thinking light and simple.... I had no plans to build a second tear..... but..........

And for the walls, I think I would go with 1/8 both sides, IF I COULD use rigid insulation that completely filled the void between inside and outside walls....... on the doors, I'd probably use 1/4".....

Ah, the wheels are churning...again.

One problem around here is, birch 1/8 is hard to find..... and how much does it cost? 1/8 Mahogony is about 12 bucks a sheet.

[Toolie]

I'm glad this thread came up because I had not given roof thickness any thought. Thanks for that 200 lb. roof comment Gage. I'm not planning to stand on it but who knows what some neighborhood kid will do.

I want to have as much interior height as possible so I'm thinking of adding a cosmetic strip at the bottom to cover the frame.

Not enough people signed up for the welding class so I'm out of luck. I bought a book; I'm gonna start practicing and find someone to tutor me.

[GeorgeTelford]

Hi Toolie

Practice till you get the bacon sizzle sound, with the hand go two steps forward one step back, keep moving, if it keeps blobbing on the tip, turn the wire speed up, if you keep devoloping a hole in the pce turn the Ampage down (you may need to turn the wire speed down too but try just turning the ampage down first)

Do not be tempted to start with mask off, or you will end up in casualty in the early hours of the night with welders eye (imagine sand and grit libraly sprinkled in your eye) at worst you will have to have metal removed from your eyeball, it melts into surface.

BTW you dont need alloy for that strength, I walked up and down on a pce of birch ply with insulation behind, no damage, I had to jump and slam heals on to surface to break, a thin layer of alloy would not help.