Trailer's Too Heavy... Need Brakes!

[JenniferandPups]

Well, we just got back from dealing with the DMV and the State Patrol, with NO resoultion (no VIN number, and they can't do the verification until the 9th, even though our temp tags expire on Thursday. But that's a different story). On the way back, we stopped at the weigh station to get an accurate weight on the Cardinal.

It was sold to us with 800 lbs as the weight, which seemed light... but I didn't expect 1500 lbs! On the bright side, that was WITH the propane tanks and with all dishes/pans... but it's still heavier than we had hoped. Our Subaru is rated to tow above 1000# ONLY with brakes on the trailer. The trailer has no brakes.

How can/do I go about adding brakes to a vintage trailer? Here's a view of the axle/etc:

Can I add brakes? Is it something better left to a professional, or can it be handled by an eager amateur? We do a LOT of mountain camping, as we live in Colorado, so I'm thinking electric brakes will be best. Any and all help is so appreciated!

As an aside, it towed beautifully this weekend up in the mountains. No problems coming down the passes/hills, etc... but that could be because we have a standard and know how to drive it in the mountains!

[madjack]

...close attention to the situation can go a long way to being safe...but brakes are good insurance...it looks like you have a 4-6" drop axle, no brake backing plates in sight...your best bet would probably be to purchase a new axle w/brakes...you can use your existing spring with new U bolts...probably 150-200 bucks plus an electric brake controller...another 100 bucks or so...not cheap but how much is piece of mind worth..........
madjack

[teardrop_focus]

JenniferandPups

How can/do I go about adding brakes to a vintage trailer?

madjack

your best bet would probably be to purchase a new axle w/brakes...you can use your existing springs with new U bolts...probably 150-200 bucks plus an electric brake controller...another 100 bucks or so...

not cheap but how much is piece of mind worth...

I second this opinion.

Electric (-ally operated) brakes, any brakes, on your trailer axle will dramatically increase the quality and safety of your towing experience. It's nice to hear that you know this is what you need to do.

[JenniferandPups]

We drive careful... neither of us have EVER been in an accident fault or no fault. Defensive driving is good! So are brakes.

it looks like you have a 4-6" drop axle, no brake backing plates in sight...your best bet would probably be to purchase a new axle w/brakes...you can use your existing spring with new U bolts...probably 150-200 bucks plus an electric brake controller...another 100 bucks or so...not cheap but how much is piece of mind worth..........

Hmmm... now come the stupid questions!
1) How do I measure what size of axle I need? (This question alone probably answers the rest!)
2) Can I get a used axle/brake set like this?
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/1245313491.html
or this http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/1245871885.html (not in my state)
3) Is this installable by amateurs, or better left to professionals (or people who have done it before, at least)?

4) Is there anything else I should do while I'm doing this... things that are easier done when the axle is off, etc?
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[Nitetimes]

Doubt you'll find a new square axle so I'd say U-bolts will be necessary too.

Put it up on stands, take both wheels off, measure from the face of one hub to the face of the other. There's other ways but that's the simplest.
Thing is I say you should pull that one and take it to a trailer place to compare it. Some newer axles may not have the same drop dimensions.
You'll need the spring seats welded on too, it's necessary with a brake axle.

[madjack]

...finding a used axle which is exactly perfect is just matter of blind luck...otherwise, by the time you mod the axle, rebuild used up brakes and bearings, the cost would come close to buying you a brand new axle...you will need the hub 2 hub measurement, outside to outside on your springs(for spring pad placement) and whatever the drop is...it should be checked but you probably have 4.5x5 bolt pattern...check it out to be sure...call Dexter or look around locally for axle/trailer parts suppliers.........
madjack

p.s. if you can find/buy the proper axle, it's just a bolt up job from there, the only welding required would be for the spring seats and that is a quick job in any competent shop.......MJ

[JenniferandPups]

Sounds great... my FIL has a welder (and knows how to use it) at his shop, so maybe we'll take it down there (with the truck) to finish it up.

I'm a used person all the way, so of course I had to ask about used axles... the new ones aren't badly priced. I was feeling all sad about having to put brakes on and how much money it was going to cost... and then I realized that it will just turn my $700 trailer into a $1000 (or so) trailer with brakes. Doesn't seem to bad when you think about it like that!

We're leaving on vacation this afternoon (not in the trailer ) , so I won't get to measuring, etc until next week.

[asianflava]

I'm with MJ, you're best plan is to get a new axle with brakes. That way you know that everything under there is new and designed to work together.

On the other side of the equation, I'd also recommend getting a better quality brake controller (the part that installs in the car). I have a Teknosha "P3" which is the update of the ever popular "Prodigy".

[JenniferandPups]

I'm with MJ, you're best plan is to get a new axle with brakes. That way you know that everything under there is new and designed to work together.

On the other side of the equation, I'd also recommend getting a better quality brake controller (the part that installs in the car). I have a Teknosha "P3" which is the update of the ever popular "Prodigy".

Thanks for the recommendation. I couldn't find any info online (in a very quick search) about whether it is compatible with anti-lock brakes... do you happen to know off the top of your head? I can call the manufacturer if not.

[asianflava]

I guess so, my truck has ABS and it's fine.

You may need professional installation since they don't have a premade harness for your vehicle. Installation will be the same regardless of what brand you choose.


Here is a place that sells it:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-h ... ontrol.htm

[Lou Park]

So what would it cost you to take it to a pro for an estimate?

[asianflava]

If you take it to a place that is familiar with these, like a hitch installation place or an RV place, they will probably give you a free estimate.

If you are asking what the estimate would be, then I don't know.

[JenniferandPups]

So what would it cost you to take it to a pro for an estimate?

If you are talking about the axle/trailer brakes, nothing... but I have to say that anytime I hire out ANYTHING I regret it. With working on our 100 year old house, I've learned that I can (with ample time) do things as good or better than any professional... AND it gets done the way I WANT it done, not the way the "professional" would like to cut corners to get it done. I've learned just a few hard lessons, but it's enough to make me do anything I actually care about. Plus, I have someone who will do the welds for me (just talked with my FIL this weekend) and/or teach me how to do them myself.

Now... getting the brake controller hookups in the subaru will probably be left to professionals. Wiring/electrical is not something I've had problems with.

guess so, my truck has ABS and it's fine.

You may need professional installation since they don't have a premade harness for your vehicle. Installation will be the same regardless of what brand you choose.


Here is a place that sells it:

Thanks! I bet I will need professional installation. I'll have to investigate this. Thanks!

[madjack]

J&P, other than welding up the spring pads, the rest of the job is just a bolt up operation...as far as ABS and controller installation, I don't see that as a problem either...you get a good proportional digital controller...it has power coming into it...brake wire and ground coming out...that's it...power in and (control)power out...everything else is controlled by the chip in the controller...they are pretty simple on the userend.............
madjack