Using Boat Trailer for Build

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Using Boat Trailer for Build

Postby doctor phreak » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:20 am

has anyone used a boat trailer for a build...i had one given to me for free with a somewhat brand new dexter axle....its only about 4'-5" wide and 7" long at the sq size...any tips or hints that i might be able to use this trailer....thanks


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Postby tinksdad » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:50 am

Nope!! Won't work!! Let me get rid of it for you!!

Just kidding. From what I can see from the pics, it looks like it would work. Just an estimated guess; but the axle/spring mounts will probably have to be moved to the rear some to get a better balance ratio. You can cantilever the floor over the frame for extra length and to some degree width. Without a tape measure in hand, it doesn't look like you would have the clearance between the tires to go a full 5' wide for a queen mattress; but 4'6" - 4'8" and you could fit a full size. And I see no reason why you couldn't go a foot or so front and rear to get up to 9' (maybe more) in length. Could probably even save and re-use the fenders.

I would be outside cleaning that baby up all ready. What you waiting on??

Oh yeah...... :pictures: :pictures: :pictures: when you get started.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:18 am

Boat trailers are great. The tongue is extra long for easy backing and great handling on the road. Axle appears to be about 4' from the rear. Would make a great 4x10 tear. Just let the wood frame extend beyond the metal and the cross brace will rest on the vee of the tongue. I cantilevered the front of my 5 x 10 barn 2' with no problem. You want the axle at 35 to 40% of the total body length from the rear. IE 10' = 120"
120 x .35= 42" from rear to axle centerline 120"x.40=48" .

I built my tear at 40% I wish it had been 35%

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In this pic you can see the cantilever clearly on my barn trailer. There are those on here that will cry foul and say it can't be done , the front will fall off , The sky is falling ,blah , blah, blah, but it is done each and every day in construction you will simply have to use a heavier bottom member to support the weight. Remember the sides will act as a truss member to help and the 1st 2 foot of a tear is generally a cabinet on the wall. And if you sleep feet forward as we do there will be almost no cargo ( people) weight there either.
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Postby angib » Wed Aug 19, 2009 4:49 pm

tinksdad wrote:Just an estimated guess; but the axle/spring mounts will probably have to be moved to the rear some to get a better balance ratio.

Alternatively, chop off the last 'bay' of the frame and put the teardrop body further forwards - it looks like the tongue may be long enough.

Remember the teardrop body is not limited to the 'square' bit of the frame.

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Postby planovet » Wed Aug 19, 2009 4:56 pm

Caseydog used a 1971 Dilly boat trailer and modified it to his specs.

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Postby angib » Wed Aug 19, 2009 4:57 pm

tinksdad wrote:Just an estimated guess; but the axle/spring mounts will probably have to be moved to the rear some to get a better balance ratio.

Alternatively, chop off the last 'bay' of the frame and put the teardrop body further forwards - it looks like the tongue may be long enough.

Remember the teardrop body is not limited to the 'square' bit of the frame.

Andrew
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Postby tinksdad » Wed Aug 19, 2009 6:17 pm

angib wrote:
tinksdad wrote:Just an estimated guess; but the axle/spring mounts will probably have to be moved to the rear some to get a better balance ratio.

Alternatively, chop off the last 'bay' of the frame and put the teardrop body further forwards - it looks like the tongue may be long enough.

Remember the teardrop body is not limited to the 'square' bit of the frame.

Andrew


That would work too!! Having to back up a very short trailer with a short tongue length, I tend to look at ways to leave as much tongue as possible now.
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