Trailer question

[toypusher]

............... I already have a 5X8 heavy duty trailer with 15" wheels, and a 3500# axle, but the angle iron is UP and would be a hassle to correct it as far as I can see. ...............

I don' t understand why the direction of the angle iron would prevent you from using it. If the angle is turned the "Wrong way" for your use, why not just weld or bolt in somekind of flange to fill the areas that need it. You should not have to box the whole frame to make it work.

Just and idea!

[Arne]

If I had one that was strong enough with the angle inverted, I'd just rip pressure treated wood to fill up the space.... more metal just adds unnecessary weight...

[cracker39]

I'm afraid I still don't see the problem with adapting a torsion axle to the HF chassis. I have a HF trailer. The side rail is not Angle (one 90 degree bend), it is "U" channel with the large flat 2 3/4"" side facing out and a 1 1/2" flat side top and bottom as in the diagram I made below. The Dexter torsion axle mount is also flat on top, and would bolt directly to the bottom of the HF frame. If you wanted to put some PT wood inside the frame to help support it, I suppose that would help. But, I don't think there would be any real weight problem that would bend either piece, the frame or the mount. In fact, my trailer frame is beefed up where the axle mounts with the extra metal welded on for the folding mechanism (which I never used). The spring mounts are attached through two thicknesses of metal.

[Vegabond9]

I see more clearly now what you are talking about. I guess the decision now is if I pay for the HF model then purchase an additional torsion axle vs fabricating from scrap. The HF allows for 15" wheels?

[Arne]

Since the wheel is along side, all you have to think is "new fenders"..

[cracker39]

[Vegabond9]

Side view of existing 5X8 3500# axle leaf spring tailer. Notice placement of axle. I am concerned with the closeness of the wheels to the door issue..... any comments? Obviously the railing would have to be removed....

[mikeschn]

How big a wheel did you say you wanted....
And that's the 5x9 generic benroy you're looking at...



Mike...

[Vegabond9]

Not quite large enough for offroad, but you is getting closer...

[cracker39]

Side view of existing 5X8 3500# axle leaf spring tailer. Notice placement of axle. I am concerned with the closeness of the wheels to the door issue..... any comments? Obviously the railing would have to be removed....

Observations:

1 If you want to use that trailer for a TD, and want to replace the axle, then you can place it further back as long as you balance the load so that the tongue weight isn't too heavy.

2 If you put a TD on that frame, and the front of the TD is curved forward and up, it may be too close to the tow vehicle. I cannot tell for sure, but that tongue may be too short for a TD. Of course, I am no TD expert. I'll defer to the builders who have done it. The tongue can be extended as it looks heavy enogh, but that could entail welding.

3 I'd definitly exchange the axle. 3500# is way too stiff for a 700-800 lb cabin. It would beat it to death on bumps.

[Vegabond9]

I believe you are correct about that axle. I would like to use or replace it with Torsion if I convert this trailer. The tongue is short as you noticed. Another possible weld situation. Hmmmmmm Which way to go....

[Woody]

I have a 3500lb axle under my teardrop and soften up the spring package to a 1000 lb per side set. I would change the spring package before I change the axle. You can always alter the ride characteristics (harder or softer) of any trailer ride by changing spring setups and it is normally cheaper also. I would do that first before swapping any axles. Just my thoughts on the subject.

[Vegabond9]

That's certainly an advantage..... how do you "soften it up"? Remove springs, replace them with different ones. Sorry I'm so suspension ignorant. If I could do that, I might just use the existing axle system. That would leave two other issues but I guess you tackle them one at a time.... This is a shot of the tongue which if I use a straight Benroy type of front end might be long enough.... if not I guess I could extend it with some minor welding..

[Woody]

That is exactly how you do it, by changing the existing leaf springs for a lighter set to soften up the ride and it is a cheaper alternative. Plus if you can guesstimate the weight of the finished trailer it would be easier to gauge the leaf spring set to use, since they go by weight. Remember that if you go lighter it helps to still have springs still above the finished trailer weight if you hual your gear in it. I weighed mine and it was right under 1000 lbs and weighs approx. 1400 lbs plus loaded, I used 1000 lb springs on either side and it rides well with no bouncing, yet it doesn't ride hard and rattle it apart either. You can compensate for a stiff ride when runnig lighter trailer weights with lower tire air presuure 10 lbs or so than recomended tire pressure on the tire also. I also talked to some trailer people after the fact and they also recomended the samething to soften up the leaf springs with a lighter set of springs rather than axle replacement. Besides you never know where you might end up someday teardroppin' so it does pay to have the heavier axle setup. I am glad I went heavy with the 3500 lb axle in some of the places I found myself in and rough roads also. I also would recomend if you do go off road to purchase a one extra leaf spring for if one should break on the road. I have one extra, I doubt I will ever need it, but it is there just in case.


Where in Central Florida are you located, I am near Ft Lauderdale

[Vegabond9]

Thanks for the input, Woody. I bought this trailer in Prescott, Arizona a couple of years back and pulled it to Florida once. Since then I have used it once or twice. The offroad situation in Arizona where I will be camping alot is very rough. Some of the ruts are deep and there are small boulders everywhere. I don't use 4 wheel drive so I won't be getting real crazy but I have really gotten into the sticks with my 2 wheel drive. Obviously the existing planks with a sheet of plywood over it to level out the up angle would give me some belly protection. With the floor of the TD mounted on top of that "skid plate" I might survive out there with little incident. Just a plan incase I use this trailer. Otherwise I am just concerned with the strength of the HF and other boltup trailers. I may just be ignorant here about the stresses on the frame and going overkill. I'm located in Davenport. Thanks to cracker49 as well for the input. It really helps me figure which way to go. I just don't want to hurry and make a serious mistake at this point because it seems to be pretty darned permanent.