breaker box confusion

[robertaw]

I need to buy a curcuit breaker box for my trailer. I found this online:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100669936&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100669936&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-google-_-D27X-_-100669936&locStoreNum=6864&marketID=28

My questions are -

1) why is there a 50amp receptical in the breaker box itself?

2)Does GFCI duplex mean that everything wired from it will be GFCI protected?

Thanks in advance for your time.

[regis101]

That is the kind of electrical panel that you'd find at a campground or somewhere that hosts shore power.

I'm thinking that you need something like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Dis ... ogId=10053

Just an ordinary indoor type ( load center ). It can support 6 single breakers for six circuits. You'd add the extension cord with either a 30a or 50a male plug to attach to shore power. You could even get away with an ordinary extension cord if you don't run the blender and the micro at the same time. :-) The extension cord wire size (awg) must match either the 30a or 50a choice to carry all the juice for your toys

NEC code states that campgrounds have 50a as well as 30a power available. The pedestals will even have a regular receptacle in most cases.

[starleen2]

robertaw - what you have shown is for an electrical connection for an RV similar to what you would find in a RV / park. 50 amps is way overkill. What you need is something like this:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=20164&highlight=

Be sure to check out sdtripper2's index above - its' full of electrical installation both 12volt DC and 120 volt AC. They range from simple extension cords to complex power converters

If you install a GFI breaker, then yes - everything down THAT circut should be covered.

[BrwBier]

The item you have linked to is what you would see on the post at a camp ground. It is not what you need in your trailer. When you put in a gfci outlet, you are correct, every thing wired through it is protected. What I used in my trailer is like the circuit box in a house only smaller. It has room for only two curcuits.
Brwbier

[regis101]

...and, the 30a and 50a RV receptacles (plugs) are not the same as your 30a dryer or 50a electric range. The ground prongs are different. So if you want to make up your own extension cord with a 30 or 50 (amp) capacity, ask for an RV type. Most RV places will carry or can order them.

If you choose to just use an ordinary household type extension cord get one with 12 awg from the local home center or hardware store. Chop off the female end and it's all good. 20' or so in length should be good.

I haven't seen premade extension cords with 10 awg but they may be out there as heavy duty or something.

The above postings about the GFCI are correct that downstream plugs will be protected when they are fed from the load side of the GFCI plug. On the back will be cast in wordage and a strip of tape that tells of the down stream load side protection

Just some thoughts.

[madjack]

...gettin good info...get the smallest box which can be had from your supplier...you don't need more than a 2-4 breaker box...follow the link Starleen sent ya and read further in the electrical section...many use just a 6 outlet power strip for their AC electrical needs....
madjack

[regis101]

....many use just a 6 outlet power strip for their AC electrical needs....
madjack

Yepper

[starleen2]

....many use just a 6 outlet power strip for their AC electrical needs....
madjack

Yepper

And you can get em' with GFI too

[robertaw]

thanks all. I want to put in 30amp service but was trying to see if I could find a breaker box that is made specifically for an RV so it would have the neutral bus already in place. I don't know how to make one that I am sure would be isolated.

[starleen2]

thanks all. I want to put in 30amp service but was trying to see if I could find a breaker box that is made specifically for an RV so it would have the neutral bus already in place. I don't know how to make one that I am sure would be isolated.

Most boxes have an adaprer strip usually sold seperatly that will fit the box for a neutral bus or grounding strip - they are usually matched to the box by serial number. The one I have pictured is from a GE load Center and cost about $4.00 to add to the box

[robertaw]

why is there a 50amp receptical in the breaker box itself?

I guess just asking that question should have been a dead give away!

[regis101]

That load center I linked will have a neutral bar and ground bar. It will also have two larger lugs for the (hots). In your case if you want to use all six spaces you would jumper the two larger lugs together. Otherwise it'd be every other one , a/b, a/b, a/b that gets the power. Either the a's or the b's

Another option since it sounds like your sure about having some power is to go ahead and mount a load center and use a short length of the male end of an extension cord of sufficient wire size. 10 awg for 30 amps. Maybe just long enough to get outside the trailer a coupla inches. It can dangle there by the frame for all of eternity. Then you would just have to carry another 20-50 foot extension cord for when you want to plug in.

30 amps is a lot of power. Everything gets a bit larger and heavier at that point. The extension cord would have to have the RV 30 a male and female ends.

Maybe browse around on some RV sites to see what's available.

[regis101]

In the picture posted, notice the neutral bus at the top and the ground bus at the side. The neutral bus must be on plastic pedestals and not screwed to the metal enclosure. The ground bus is indeed screwed to the metal enclosure. Do not, at this point, use the neutral bus to ground bus tie bar that is included with the load center. You want to keep things separated.

As a mild critique of the picture, The (bridge) wire that ties the two larger lugs together should be black so it matches the color of the incoming hot wire and distinguishes it as a hot. It should also be of the same awg or wire size. But electricity doesn't know color.

Although the neutral is a grounded conductor the green is a case or equipment ground. It is a second path to earth ground on the chance you stick a fork in the toaster to get the bagel out before it burns. generic scenario but nonetheless.

[robertaw]

The neutral bus must be on plastic pedestals

This is the part I couldn't get my brain around. The neutral bus appears to be metal so I couldn't figure out what kind of magic was making it "isloated"

So I was trying to find a breaker panel specific to RV use so it would have the "Magic Bus"

So the magic bus is nothing more than a couple pieces of plastic

[Shadow Catcher]

I am a big believer in (KISS) keep it simple... What is in the Mega-Mini is one of these www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html. This simplifies wiring saves space and weight.
They are in the process of building #6 which has all of the suggestions we made as a result of our experience with #1 incorporated (we are trading up). I have been very active in input concerning its appointments.