Brake Controller Installation Problems

[halfdome, Danny]

I tried installing a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller on my 55 Chevy today and it's giving me problems. I connected the white to a established ground under the hood, black wire to 12 volt positive on the fuse block, blue to the wire I strung to the trailer connector, & the red to the red wire on the brake switch. I replaced the brake switch with a new one since the old one had a crack. I get a "PL" digital read out which could mean a host of problems including power loss according to the instructions. What puzzles me is when it's hooked up the brake lights stay on without anyone pressing the brake pedal. It said to hook the red wire to the cold side but both wires are hot so I chose the red one since it said that was the wire in another part of the instructions. The guy that rewired the car used electrical tape instead of wire loom so it's difficult to chase down what goes to where. Any ideas? Danny

[teardrop_focus]

The guy that rewired the car used electrical tape instead of wire loom so it's difficult to chase down what goes to where.

Take a continuity tester and about 20 ft of 14 ga. wire... and test continuity from the dash to the back of the truck... it won't take too long 'cause there should only be less than 10 wires running to the rear.




What's powering the trailer? Are you using the tear's 12V to power the breakaway brakes? Inquiring minds want to know...

[B52]

but both wires are hot Danny

The only way for both wires to be hot is if the switch is incorrectly adjusted or faulty. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

[len19070]

but both wires are hot Danny

The only way for both wires to be hot is if the switch is incorrectly adjusted or faulty. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

See if the brake lights stay on without the brake controller installed. By removing the red wire on the Prodogy from the brake pedal switch, if both wires are still hot, (they should not be) you have a problem with the brake pedal switch.

I always run the ground for a brake controller directly to the - on the Battery.

Happy Trails

Len

[halfdome, Danny]

What's powering the trailer? Are you using the tear's 12V to power the breakaway brakes? Inquiring minds want to know...

The brake controller powers the trailer brakes. Since I have two group 24 deep cell batteries I power the breakaway switch from them. I see no need to carry a small extra battery for that purpose especially since I can charge the two batteries from the tow vehicle.

When day breaks I'll spend some more time tracing what the problem may be. Last night I found one connector that was loose that powers the left break light. It would work & then not work. The car was advertised as "All new wiring", not true.
Thanks for your ideas. Danny

[wlooper89]

After completing the wiring on my tow vehicle for a Tekonsha P3 controller this week, I checked the wires with a tester. My tow vehicle is not very old but there is a similar situation as the tow package did not include 7-pin wiring harness. And there was no brake controller connector under the dash as many of the newer vehicles have.

The black wire to the controller from my battery 12V positive via in-line fuse is hot all the time. The red wire from the brake switch to the controller is hot only when the brake pedal is pressed. Fortunately everything seems to be working. If the tester shows the wire from the brake switch is hot all the time I would try connecting to or testing the other side of the brake switch. One side of the switch will be hot all the time and the other side hot only when the brake pedal is pressed.

The other two wires from the brake controller are a blue one that goes directly to the 7-pin connector at the hitch. The remaining wire is white and goes to vehicle common or ground. Tekonsha uses RV wire color code on the controller with black positive instead of automotive color code that has black negative. The 12V negative (white wire) to the controller can cause a problem if it is not a good tight connection to something attached securely to the vehicle frame. Some folks like to take it directly to the tow vehicle battery negative terminal.

Bill

[wlooper89]

Danny,

Reading your original post again, it sounds as though you did everything right. The problem as I see it the brake switch should only be hot on one side until the brake pedal is pressed. If the switch is always hot on both sides something is wrong there. Maybe a short between the wires leading to the switch or in the switch itself. I am not sure, is there an adjustment in the brake switch mounting that allows it to open when the brake pedal is not pressed? The red wire from the brake controller goes to the side of the switch that is cold until the brake pedal is pressed. A circuit tester (multimeter) can help sort out the problem.

Bill

[halfdome, Danny]

I got it to work by reviewing all my wiring and pushing on all the connectors under the dash. I found one kinda loose. Now it works great and I'm thinking of replacing my old one on the Blazer with one like this as it responds more positively. Towed the teardrop over 80 miles this weekend and I like the controller. Thanks for your help. Danny

[CPlater]

Nice to hear things are working out with Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. I need to add a controller to my 2004 Chevy Colorado so I can use the brakes on a new dual axle utility trailer. I'm looking seriously at that unit so I was following this thread with interest. Not sure if I will DIY it or have the local RV dealer do the install. I need to research some more on where to wire this puppy up in my Chevy.

[Dale M.]

Nice to hear things are working out with Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. I need to add a controller to my 2004 Chevy Colorado so I can use the brakes on a new dual axle utility trailer. I'm looking seriously at that unit so I was following this thread with interest. Not sure if I will DIY it or have the local RV dealer do the install. I need to research some more on where to wire this puppy up in my Chevy.

There should be a connector up under dash on left side with plug in spot for controller.... If you bought truck new it may have come with "pig tail" connector for connecting up controller to truck wiring.... If not, check owners manual and it should have comments about connecting controller. IF you do not have pig tail a after market pig tail should be available online at almost any "E" trailer retailer on internet... My 05 Silverado had 7 pin connector on back and a pig tail and 7 pin round to 4 pin flat adapter as standard accessories in glove box when I picked it up.......

Dale

[CPlater]

No controller connector on my 04 Colorado. I've seen reports there supposed to be a wiring stub on factory tow equipped models and mine is so I'll need to spend some quality time crawling under the dash. It sure would have been nice if they'd put a connector in instead of saving a quarter.
I'm still going to need to bring battery power to the back and etrailer.com web site has a nice kit for doing the wiring and has the 7 plus 4 pin socket that looks to be just the ticket for my needs.

[halfdome, Danny]

No controller connector on my 04 Colorado. I've seen reports there supposed to be a wiring stub on factory tow equipped models and mine is so I'll need to spend some quality time crawling under the dash. It sure would have been nice if they'd put a connector in instead of saving a quarter.
I'm still going to need to bring battery power to the back and etrailer.com web site has a nice kit for doing the wiring and has the 7 plus 4 pin socket that looks to be just the ticket for my needs.

That connector is available at Walmart too. Danny