Angle Iron Frame Question

[BufordT]

Thanks Bufordt,

Here is is again for the those who would be visualization challenged

Yep. That's the way Mr. Ben and Mr. Roy did the frames for the Benroy.

Been working for over 60 years. I'd say that if it works don't fix it. Why over build these trailers? I'll never understand that. I got caught up in the old harbor freight trailer thinge and even that trailer is overbuilt for these tears as far as I'm concerned.

We need to get back to the basic's on these trailers. KISS best way to go.

Bufordt

[Arne]

If it were me, I would consider putting the whole wall assembly down to the bottom of the angle, not just the outside 1/4" skin. Bolt the floor to the horizontal angle,and the wall to the vertical, and caulk the seam if you really care..

[toypusher]

Just me, but I think that I would rather have the bulk of the sidewall setting on top of the frame. The sidewall will be screwed and glued to the floor.

[Boodro]

I have brought this up before ,maybe it needs repeated. Everyone agrees that pipe is stronger than angle or square steel, then why not use it. I recall the plans in the old magazines showed the frame as pipe. It seems that since pipe is stronger ,you could go smaller also. When I do my 2nd TD , I plan on checking into using pipe. Its got to be cheaper to buy also. As far as mounting the floor to it ,all it takes is a little care & patience ( and a bench drill press ?) to drill a straight hole , just like any measuring & drilling does. It is always must to be presice when drilling into your own TD!! If you don't or can't drill a straight hole thru a pipe, you could always weld on steel tabs to bolt thru . It would only take 6 or 8 bolts to hold the floor down any way.

Just my 2 sense !!!

Everybody keep up the hard work.

[angib]

Everyone agrees that pipe is stronger than angle or square steel, then why not use it.

I thought I would look to see what sort of tube could be used instead of 2"x2"x1/8" angle.

For square tube, 1.25"x1.25"x11g(0.120") is about the same weight as the angle. It's about 25% stronger than the angle in bending, but it's only about half as stiff (that is, it would have more 'spring', even though it's stronger).

For rectangular tube, 1.5"x1"x11g(0.120") is about the same weight as the angle. It's about 35% stronger than the angle in vertical bending, but about 30% less stiff.

I don't like round tube as drilling holes in it weakens it too much but, if you're happy to weld on tabs, 1.5"ODx11g(0.120")wall is about the same weight as the angle. It's about 25% stronger than the angle in bending, but about 35% less stiff.

So, yes, anything other than the angle will be (a bit) stronger. It will also be (a bit) less stiff, if that is significant, which I can't make up my mind about....

Andrew (happily nerding again)

[Chris C]

I'm no engineer, but I tend to agree with Andrew here. Yes, pipe is strong, but flexible. Angle and tubing is more rigid. I'd rather have something rigid under my teardrop, thank you!

[mikeschn]

I tend to think that building on angle or tubing is much more comfortable than building on pipe. For one, it gives you a good place to rest your teardrop on, or a good place to bolt into.

It's familar. Houses are built with 2x4's with skins bolted to them. It's easy to think about doing something similar with your teardrop. I wouldn't think of building a house with dowels... it's just not familar... you get the idea!

Mike...

[doug hodder]

Another thing to consider is welding up pipe....I've built several thousand feet of railing..mostly alongside bike paths.....a lot of it with 6 rails in condominium lofts... and without a notcher it ain't going to happen.....and if you have ever done any pipe fitting it takes quite a bit of practice to get the curves right...with or without the templates.....all in all....square or rec. tube is so much easier to work with....that's what I experienced....Doug

[Kevin A]

I tend to think that building on angle or tubing is much more comfortable than building on pipe. For one, it gives you a good place to rest your teardrop on, or a good place to bolt into.

It's familar. Houses are built with 2x4's with skins bolted to them. It's easy to think about doing something similar with your teardrop. I wouldn't think of building a house with dowels... it's just not familar... you get the idea!

Mike...

Here's a house that was built with some rather large "dowels"
http://www.driftwoodcreekloghomes.com/images/photos/large/forsale1.htm

[Boodro]

Hey Kevin , that makes a real nice " Dowel House"

Ok I won't mention a pipe frame any more. But would'nt the 3/4" floor make the pipe VERY ridged ? Oh well , never mind!

[Arne]

KevinA, love your avatar... I think I might be your cousin..../g/

[Normspeed]

That last pic is the way my old home built was made, using angle. Besides the angle perimeter, there are also some cross braces. The 1/2" ply floor is bolted right to the frame and is very solid. No wood filler blocks needed. The aluminum skin on mine was fastened to the angle iron birdcage frame and to the base frame with sheet metal screws. I left it in place and rebuilt from the inside. Really a solid setup.

[Normspeed]

Oops, my mistake. Correction, my birdcage is welded angle but my primary frame is "C" channel, with the C in the upright position. Not Angle as I previously said. No wood filler blocks.