Wes' teardrop - Fiberglass finished Bondo started - Page 9

[Minicamper42]

I too find your build interesting...being in construction for 17yrs, I'm just imagining the amount of time you spent cutting out each rib, sanding, trimming and more sanding to perfection...you have either way too much time on your hands of you would rather spend the time in the garage like me...you have way more patience then I do for the amount of work involved in a very brave build...I solute your efforts

[Ageless]

Easiest method would be to contruct a rotary unit than would allow you to roll the master 180 degrees.

[PanelDeland]

A two post rottisserie such as used for car restoration would work well for rotating your mold.

[WesGrimes]

Changed my mind about filling that whole thing in with foam. I decided that I could just wrap the whole thing in 1/8th inch lauan and fiberglass over that. It would save a ton of time and mess. I will still foam the radius and such most likely, just not the large flat parts.
Second thing is that I have decided to create 4 parts and join them mechanically. The nose and roof, the rear end, left side, right side.
This will remove any worries about laying fiberglass upside down. Also, the parts will be easier to create since they are smaller and can be done in stages. I am not happy about adding joints to my "uni-body" design, but I think it is worth it...




Still working on the lauan, but it is working out nicely so far. It is going to be really tempting to throw an axle under it and call it built once the "plug" is skinned. Just with adding the two pieces it firmed up really well. I think this build method could create a really strong and light wood teardrop.

Thanks,
Wes

[starleen2]

Still working on the lauan, but it is working out nicely so far. It is going to be really tempting to throw an axle under it and call it built once the "plug" is skinned.

Thanks,
Wes

Yep Wes - for some of us - that would be close enough to being Finished

[Minicamper42]

Wes, Just be sure that your nose fits over the top and side skins like a lid on a cup...I think that will give you the best weather protection...you still have a lot of engineering to do so keep up the good work...I am sure that when you are finished you may be able to sell the plug to a local fiberglass boat builder and just reap a percentage of each sale, this will free up your garage and allow you to enjoy YOUR TD when finished.

Mini 42

[WesGrimes]

4" drop axle with 14" rims.


Finished the skin on the nose and roof

[WesGrimes]

Could not resist Greg's offer to build my trailer for $100. So, I have a trailer now...

[WesGrimes]

Time for a little foam...

2 part polyurethane foam from Jamestown Distributors.

Used construction paper to tape up all of the voids to be filled. Mixed a small batch in a plastic cup and poured into paper channel.

Lessons learned:
1. You really should not free pour A/B Foam. Measuring would be better.
2. Kind-of taped up is not good enough. This stuff pours like water, and will find spots to leak.
3. Don't be so quick to pour. The directions say that you have 45 seconds of working time. I poured in like 10 seconds out of fear. See lesson # 2...

The good news is that I just made a small batch, as I knew there would be a learning curve.

[ktm_2000]

have you tried shaping/sanding the foam yet?

The guys at Jamestown Distributors are quite nice, I think that it helps when you spend alot of $$$ there. They are 20 min away from my work so I can take a long lunch and go there.

[WesGrimes]

Not yet, but I plan to use an electric fish scaling knife for the initial rough cuts. Then a wood rasp to do the major shaping. Followed by a sander for final contours.

I wish I had access to their store. I am using their mail order services. All I have by me is a west marine, and they are so much more expensive...

Thanks,
Wes

[ktm_2000]

I'll bet that worst marine is way more expensive than Jamestown even with the shipping

How was the experience of mix / pour of the 2 part foam?? I bought a gallon kit to foam in the outside of the stringers on my boat but have been reluctant to cut some holes in the deck to pour in the foam. I'm most curious about how long it is liquid and viscous (sp?)

I'd like to be able to pour it in a length of tubing to direct it to a hard to get area

[WesGrimes]

I have poured about 10 batches now, and think I am just starting to get the hang of it.

I am mixing about 3oz of each half of the mix, making 6oz of foamy goodness. I am using small 9oz plastic cups, and plastic knives to stir it up.

The working time once the mix has occurred is supposed to be 45 seconds. I have found that the mix will start its exothermic reaction and begin to become less viscus at that point, but is still pourable for a couple of minutes.

The initial viscosity of the mix is a little thinner than pancake syrup. I have found my needs are best served by waiting for the mix to kick and thicken up a bit before I pour it. Mainly because I don't want it to leak out of any gaps or holes.

If you use a pipe or funnel to fill a void, just know that it is a one use pipe of funnel. It will completely close up in 5 minutes, and is only good for one batch.

If you are pouring this into a closed space be very careful about making too large of a batch. If you pour more than the space will hold, it will bust the walls out. You can pour in layers though. The other thing to keep in mind is that if you mix and pour a large batch into a cavity, the outer layer of the batch can cure (it reacts with Oxygen) while the inside has not finished expanding. This can cause the foam to expand in other less desirable directions, and again blow the walls out...

I would suggest getting some paper funnels from the auto store, and mixing batches of no more than about 12oz at a time until you get a feel for the stuff.

Long story short: Small batches = good (IMHO)

[ktm_2000]

Thanks for the advice!!

I had planned on Cutting 1" holes with a hole saw at regular intervals and pouring in the mix or using a piece of old garden hose.

I think that before I put even a drop in the boat I should mix up a few batches to see how it does.

What temps are you using this at?? The directions on the can that I have state that it should be used at 80 degrees. I'm wondering if you are using it at lower temps and the reaction is slower because of it.

[WesGrimes]

It has been in the upper 70s this week. I read that the issue with colder temperatures is that it will not expand to its maximum potential, and will therefore end up denser. So a 2lb foam will set up as a 3lb foam. Not sure how greatly the temp affects all of this, but I would not try to pour it in 30 degree weather...

Some more shots of my foam. I have started shaving some of it...