Going to brave Lake Tawakoni tonight

Texas, New Mexico, Louisiana, Arkansas & Oklahoma

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Postby 2bits » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:38 pm

Yeah freakin awesome eh..

The walls are 4x10 sheets of 3/4" Maple plywood from Plywood C of Ft. Worth. Yeah, definitely time for some epoxy... I am hoping some of the swelling will go down too, It was and is wet and it was getting slammed on that side pretty bad all night.
Thomas

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Postby Joamon » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:43 pm

Oh Thomas so sorry to see that. Hope you find a way to reverse the damage. When I got home and saw you were taking off, I thought about coming out to join you. I am on vacatuion this week. After how much rain we had I am glad I didn't.
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Postby mikeschn » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:44 pm

Sorry to hear about that... :cry: Hopefully the swelling will go down when it dries out. Then you need to break out the epoxy before you go back out again.

I'm optimistic. ;) It'll all work out!

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Postby caseydog » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:45 pm

Man, it hurts to see that water damage. I hope it dries out okay.

I need to do another water test on mine before heading off to LCG4. I need to see if I got my leaks fixed.

I will still roll mine under the easy-up if it rains. You may want to invest in an ez-up, too.

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Postby planovet » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:51 pm

Dang Thomas, that sucks! :thumbdown: I hope it all lays down ok when it dries out. :worship:
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Postby Wig » Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:47 pm

sorry man.that sucks.Ive seen people use electric clothes iron on unsealed wood.but I don't know about your situation.
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Postby S. Heisley » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:42 pm

That's a darn shame and awful! Seeing that has got to feel like getting hit in the stomach. :( Rotten! No, not rotten...but, please get that pretty thing dried out before it does!

How you'll fix that is anybody's guess. You could end up having to sand down the sides and reseal them. I wonder if a CPES injector kit would work? Why not email a picture and the story to the rot doctor and ask? Dunno....It might save you a ton of work. ...Just an idea and you've got the time to do it while you wait for your VK to dry out.

Glad you had fun Saturday night, anyway. In a downpour at a campground, I can think of no better place to be than right next to the restrooms!
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Postby Miriam C. » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:41 am

:cry: :cry: :cry: Man I hate to see that. Odd that it has water at the bottom of the door. You might check to see if the swelling is at the screw holes. If so then some glue or epoxy/cpes or something in the holes will help next time. If you can put some presure on that as it drys.

Worse comes to it you can sand, epoxy (or fiberglass) and paint over it.

I think the vent thing happens if it rains too hard. I tipped mine but 4+ inches and it came in over the edge. Had just enough momentum.

Good luck!
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Postby aggie79 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:07 am

Thomas,
Sorry to see that water damage, but I'll be the swelling will go down once it has time to dry. The water may migrate in the wood, so you may want to open the TD doors and hatch, and get a few box fans to get air moving in the garage.
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Postby 2bits » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:08 pm

Hey guys and gals, well, I came home from work today, (had the doors, windows and hatch open all night and day), and the swelling is almost gone. It is still there and probably won't go down any more just because that's just the way wood is I am just glad to see it has decreased so much. Maybe because it is night or something, but I actually had to look for it in certain places so I'll double check tomorrow morning. That is a great idea to check to see if the damage occurred at the screw holes, since I will be pulling off the weather stripping, trim and windows and resealing anyway. I coated the screws with titebond when screwing them in. It would be nice to know the CPES worked where it was supposed to though, and I might have needed to just drop some in the holes before putting the screws in, or added more CPES over the whole thing. The door handle area looks fine although now that I think of it, I did not treat that at all. I guess it has a tight seal.

What I DID notice is that my AC vent which is on that "bad" side, looks fine, no water damage at all. I covered the end grain with Rot Doctor's "fill-it" and there were no screws used to hold it in, so the confirms that it didn't just happen to me, I did it to myself, but at least I can fix it, and I can live with how it looks now.
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Postby WesGrimes » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:19 pm

Glad to hear that swelling is coming down! I bet it will come down some more. The humidity is still really high out there.
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Postby Miriam C. » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:23 pm

:applause: :thumbsup: Now if you have some CPES you might get a needle and shoot those places up, or shoot some tight bond in it. Then put a board on and clamp!

So glad it didn't stay that way. :thumbsup:
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Postby Juneaudave » Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:00 pm

That's great news!!!! :applause: :applause:
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Postby 2bits » Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:06 pm

Miriam C. wrote::applause: :thumbsup: Now if you have some CPES you might get a needle and shoot those places up, or shoot some tight bond in it. Then put a board on and clamp!

So glad it didn't stay that way. :thumbsup:


I don't have any CPES left but I have some titebond II so that is a good idea Miriam.

This shows as an example to people, sometimes the water hose test is not foolproof, if I did the water hose test, my roof vent would have leaked, and that was all. The true test was in a full night's rainstorm where one side passed, and the other side failed. Don't rush the end of the job where the details are just as important if not more. Seal the endgrain as much if not more than the flat surface. You read it all the time but here is a fine example. At least I know now that I can fix it and spend the time needed to seal it properly.
Thomas

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Postby madjack » Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:14 pm

T, I always do and recommend predrilling all exterior screw holes and applying a dab of sealant IN the hole before inserting the screw...good to know the majority of the swelling has gone down...
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