Frame help needed!!!

[TerryLawson]

OK here is what I have. The trailer is over all length of 10' 6" including the tounge. the box is 7' X 5'. the box frame is made of 2"X 3" angle that has a few years on it.





What I am thinking, is that I want to do is build a 10' X 5' tear. I was going to just sister up some longer angle and get the length that I need but with the axle placement now that will have to be moved and you might be able to see there is a slight bow right above the axle.
I was thinking that the best bet might be to build a 10X5 rear frame and then just reuse the axle and tounge.
Does any one see any problems with this or advice?
What type of steel would you recomend tube, angle, c channel?

Any way thats where I am, and I respect any and all comments

Terry

[danlott]

I looked at your pictures before I read your posting. I came up with the same idea you did. Reuse the tounge and axle assemble. Build a new frame out of new box or channel. You might be able to reuse some of the old angle for crossmembers.

Dan

[TerryLawson]

Ok. So what is the best thickness of each angle, tubing, or channel?
Terry

[del]

Here is something I find as different, the shackles appear to be towards the front of the trailer?


The angle is strong enough for putting a rigid body on, but being bent like that, no, or an exercise in frustration. You need to straiten it first, the easiest way replacement, Save the tongue, paper work, and axle.

You may want to get springs that match the tears gross weight, those look too heavy (I know they have been overloaded, but not with a tear on top).

Now for thickness 1/4 too heavy, 3/16 heavy, 1/8 will get the job done if securely mounted to the body.

Do look at Andrews (in the "design library" at top of page) tongue strength and trailer balance. Also good reading is the "trailer tutorial" by Doug and Rich.

hope this helps del

[hugh]

I am a fan of 2x2 tubing, replace the side rails with that and maybe a couple of cross pieces also and clean up and reuse the rest. Also older Jeeps had the front spring shackles mounted like your trailer with the shackle to the front, it was notorious for a rough ride, turn the set up around ie have the shackle to the rear and it will give a smoother ride IMHO.

[dh]

I just finished a utility trailer that I built with some channel I had laying around. Channel gets fun to figure out. I put the throaght on the outside, so I had a flat surface to weld X members to. Kind of cool, because I can put running lights in there and protect them, but perhaps not too cool on a tear frame.

Just my $.02 on channel.

Personally, if it wasn't a "you haul it off, you can have it" deal, I never would have built it with the stuff.

[Ageless]

Except for the bowing over the springs; I would have said keep the angle. It's been overloaded. With the healthy coat of rust hiding any fatigue; I wouldn't use it. Save the tongue and axle. Stay on the safe side

[Lou Park]

Sell the trailer for cash, use the money to buy all new materials.
Your going to end up spending more to fix this up rather
than starting from scratch.
Lou

[eamarquardt]

I am a fan of 2x2 tubing, replace the side rails with that and maybe a couple of cross pieces also and clean up and reuse the rest. Also older Jeeps had the front spring shackles mounted like your trailer with the shackle to the front, it was notorious for a rough ride, turn the set up around ie have the shackle to the rear and it will give a smoother ride IMHO.

I agree with him! Maybe even 2X3 tubing (a little heavier but MUCH stronger). Also consider mounting spring hardware on short pieces of 3/16 or 1/4 angle iron and making strap nuts (nuts welded onto 1 X 1/8) that can be slid inside the tubing. That way you can mount or even move the axle at will by just unbolting it, drilling new holes, and rebolting it in the new location.

Also there are no brake flanges on the axle. IMHO brakes are a MUST, even if you THINK your trailer is light. One trip to Big Bear Lake here in So. Cal. towing a LIGHT tent trailer convinced me (my wife and boyz too). Lucky to have made it down the mountain in one piece!



Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[TerryLawson]

Also consider mounting spring hardware on short pieces of 3/16 or 1/4 angle iron and making strap nuts (nuts welded onto 1 X 1/8) that can be slid inside the tubing. That way you can mount or even move the axle at will by just unbolting it, drilling new holes, and rebolting it in the new location.





Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus[/quote]

Ok I have one question? How do you get the "strap nuts steel into the right place to bolt?

I can see the nice side of this but I can also see this being a P.I.A.


Terry

[eamarquardt]

[quote="TerryLawson"][/quote]

Ok I have one question? How do you get the "strap nuts steel into the right place to bolt? :?

I can see the nice side of this but I can also see this being a P.I.A.


Terry

Depends. If you are using angle iron frame it's open and easy to get to but you have to mill out the radius on the inside of the angle iron the springs are mounted to to get it to sit flush. You really don't need the strap nut but would make it easier as fewer tools would be required. If you've used channel with an angle it would be a bit tougher as, again, you would have to mill out the radius on the inside of the angle iron the springs are mounted to. In addtion, if the inside of the channel iron is at an angle I'd recommend using beveled washers to get things parallel once again.

Finally if you used tubing for your frame, you construct it so that the rear ends of the tubing are open (or capped with an easily removeable cap. Then you just insert the strap nut, push it up to were it belongs with a suitable stick, use a pencil or other pointed object to center the nuts, and bolt er up. If you need to remove it, just use a stick with a simple hook to catch it and pull it back. See my album to see how my frame is built this way. If you can't hook it, all you have to do is pick up the trailer, face the end of the tubing down, shake a bit, and gravity should do the rest as far as getting the strap (make sure you have everything in the galley secured before attempting this).

Hope this splains it.

Cheers,

Gus

[GaryW]

Just a question, are the spring hangers on backwards in the first photo?

[eamarquardt]

Nope, the assembly you are looking at will go on the left side of the trailer. The side that will go on the right side is a mirror image of the assembly pictured. For the best ride the shackels should be mounted on the rear of the springs.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gusl

[greekspeedoman]

It is great that you have a head start on the frame. I built a 5x10' from scratch. I used square tube on the outside and channel on the inside. Mine is for off road use so it is a bit beefy for just general road driving.

If you don't plan to use it off road, I'd go with channel, a new axle & spring pack, and you're set. I look forward to watching your build!

See my website for all of my steps and photos but here are a few photos that may help you with your build.
http://jpodbuild.files.wordpress.com/20 ... rplans.jpg

Trailer upside down

[Lou Park]

That is just screaming "Build Me"
Lou