Aluminum corner trim?

[cappy208]

Hello all you professional teardroppers.
I have a question I have not seen answered anywhere else.
The aluminum trim covering the roof/wall joint.
Is there a special name for the flexible type, which can be easily bent to the curve of the 'ham'?
All I have seen is pretty stiff stuff which would (to my mind) crinkle on the radius.
Or is there a technique I have not heard about to successfully bend the stuff?
Are the HF sheet metal stretcher/shrinker the tool?

Of all the details I am working out in my mind, this seems to be the most perplexing one... to ensure the roof wall joints watertight integrity and keep it looking good!
Thanks

John

[planovet]

One type (that I used) is called insert trim and most RV stores will stock it. Usually comes in white or mill finish. It seems stiff but it bends on a radius pretty easily, just take your time. It has a place for an insert to be installed to cover the screw holes. You can find the inserts in several colors. I used white.

[mikeschn]

What Mark said... I have the same stuff in white, just haven't had a chance to use it yet.

Also Grant sells some deadsoft aluminum which is supposed to bend fairly easy.

Mike...

[cappy208]

Thanks for the awesome photos.

But I still cant get over the intentional drilling of MORE holes in the roof to have to seal.... in addition to the original holes from the roof panel!

I would think a more secure way would be to screw from the sidewall, and have the bent piece on the roof with the mastic, or rubber gooey stuff. what is that stuff named anyway? I saw ir on another post, but lost it.

John

[Gage]

But I still cant get over the intentional drilling of MORE holes in the roof to have to seal.... in addition to the original holes from the roof panel!
John

What are you talking about? Sounds to me that your trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill. If your doing a restore and you use the correct edge molding, the holes should just about match up. Have you got any pictures?

[Classic Finn]

But I still cant get over the intentional drilling of MORE holes in the roof to have to seal.... in addition to the original holes from the roof panel!
John

What are you talking about? Sounds to me that your trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill. If your doing a restore and you use the correct edge molding, the holes should just about match up. Have you got any pictures?

Gage are them screws or nails you used on the edge trim? If I remember correctly you mentioned someplace that you have or will use rounded top nails or am I wrong. Your work is so Finntastic as always.

Classic Finn

[Carter]

The RV edge trim is pretty soft. I used it all the way around the sides and bottom of mine, even the wheel wells. Just take your time and fasten it as you go along. The reason it's not fastened to the side wall is the flange would have to be wider and thicker making it more difficult to form.

Put it on with all the fasteners then take it off again, add a bead of good quality butyl caulk when reinstalling

Jim

[planovet]

Put it on with all the fasteners then take it off again, add a bead of good quality butyl caulk when reinstalling

Yep, that's what I did (almost). Yes it's more holes in the roof but they will be sealed. I predrilled each hole and used SS screws. I went one screw at a time. Drill & screw, drill & screw. On the straight parts you can probably drill a few holes at a time but on the curves I would do it one at a time. Ease the trim over, drill and screw. Ease the trim some more, drill and screw. Once you have it all installed, take it all off, put down some butyl tape and re-install with NEW screws.You have less chance of stripping the heads of the screws if you use new ones on the re-install. It's a lot of work but it will be worth it. I'm not a professional but it worked for me.

But I still cant get over the intentional drilling of MORE holes in the roof to have to seal.... in addition to the original holes from the roof panel!
John

What does it matter whether the holes are in the roof or in the sidewall? Water will get in either way if you don't seal it well enough. Insert trim has been put on roofs of professionally made RVs for years, there must be a reason why they do it that way...

[Gage]

Gage are them screws or nails you used on the edge trim? If I remember correctly you mentioned someplace that you have or will use rounded top nails or am I wrong. Your work is so Finntastic as always.
Classic Finn

I used alum twist nails. I pre formed my molding because I was using nails. I then applied sealant and did as Mark did. Clamp and pre drilled and installed nails (or screws) one at a time.


I'm not really that tall. I'm standing on a stole.

[48Rob]

But I still cant get over the intentional drilling of MORE holes in the roof to have to seal.... in addition to the original holes from the roof panel!
John

John,

Instead of worrying about more holes, or any holes, consider that a properly constructed trailer will not leak.

If you'll take the time to learn and understand what causes leaks, and how to prevent them, you can put a thousand holes in your roof, and not have a single leak.

Rob

[bfitz]

Okay Rob....ya got a willing learner here. Any references you can point to?

Gratzi

[steve smoot]

I have been thinking alot about this same issue, and these posts have really helped me. Thanks for all the detailed pictures. Great info.

Boy, Gage has more clamps than that fellow, Norm...

Steve

[planovet]

Boy, Gage has more clamps than that fellow, Norm...

Building a teardrop somehow causes you to acquire many clamps

[48Rob]

Gratzi,

There are many references on the Web... but in general, research why a roof leaks, then how to repair it.
Once you know those two things, you'll be able to prevent leaks.

Here is a page that covers all the basics,
http://repairingyesterdaystrailers.yuku.com/topic/26

Rob

[John Samarin]

I posted a question somewhere, about bending the molding,
never mind!!