Plywood veneer repair help

[Steve_Cox]

Yup, as the title indicated, I lost a little veneer while doing the glue up of my gally hatch. Seems a drop of epoxy got between a scrap board and the plywood. I used plastic under some of the scrap lumber I used for "clamp cushions", but missed this one. The spot about 3/4 inch square more or less. Any of you woodworking gurus got a veneer fix? It is at the edge of the hatch bottom (building a woody) could possibly cover it with a little trim molding.

Steve in St Augustine

[goldcoop]

Steve-

The same thing that gave you trouble can fix your problem; EPOXY.

Look for a wood workers epoxy putty at your local Hardware Store, follow the instructions, use a putty knife to smooth it in (wetting it slightly will help the smoothing process).

Once dry you will be able to sand, etc.

If finishing a wood finish the repair will probably be lighter than the surrounding ply, you can darken the epoxy repair area by using a small artists brush and a little darker stain to blend the repair in.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Coop

[madjack]

Steve, if you can come up with piece of veneer (peel it of off some scrap) your possibly in luck.
Depending on the damage, clean/square up the damaged area(a good sharp chisel is handy here...used judiciously)
Now take your piece of scrap veneer and trim it to match the damaged area, possibly beveling the edges(slightly) on the bottom side to give you a "sharp" edge to match up to the surrounding areas.
I wouldn't use epoxy but rather something like titebond2/3 and glue up the piece in question, using some wax paper and a block to cover the whole area and clamp tightly.
After 24 hrs or whatever time you feel apropriate, remove clamp and peel away wax paper, if your fit up was correct and the veneer matches at all, a little sanding and you should not even be able to tell where the repair was made
I hope this was understandable, because I have used this technique several time with much success
good luck
madjack

[Steve_Cox]

Thanks Madjack,
After I posted this morning I went back after it with a razor blade, and a couple of carving tools. Like you said, squared it up and cut a slice of veneer from some scrap. it was a little lumpy after the glue/compression part, (I shoulda let the titebond dry a little longer) but it sanded down pretty good with 220 grit. I know it's there, but at 70 MPH no one will see it.

Coop,
Thanks for the advice. I have fixed a few other little spots using epoxy and wood dust for thickener. Used it in small gaps along exposed joints. you are right about the epoxy not taking stain very well, so I use darker wood dust to start with (I save the sanding dust from my orbital sander, makes a strong bond when mixed with the epoxy).

Steve

[madjack]

...glad ya got it worked out and your right, at 70mph, who cares to run along side and scope it all out
madjack

[goldcoop]

Steve-

Glad you got it sorted out.

I agree with MadJack, I can't see the repair from my house!

Cheers,

Coop

[Boodro]

Glad ya got it fixed. But maybe the process should be reversed . Cut your wood patch first , then scribe aroud it over the bad spot ,then cut out on the scribe lines. Then you have a perfect matched hole.

just my 2 sense!

[Steve_Cox]

Glad ya got it fixed. But maybe the process should be reversed . Cut your wood patch first , then scribe aroud it over the bad spot ,then cut out on the scribe lines. Then you have a perfect matched hole.

just my 2 sense!

Hey thanks Boodro,

Makes sense to me, I must agree........ a perfectly matched hole does give the best results

Steve in St Augustine

[halfdome, Danny]

For those who need a wood patch that is not available in the wood you are using here is a recipe. Using a metal can, mix sanding dust with lacquer thinner and slowly add Styrofoam peanuts until it is as thick as peanut butter. Works great even with exotic woods. Also I have patched (Duchman) wood veneer and lumber using a small thin scrap that has the same grain and using a scrap stick for pressure glue it with CA glue (Cyanoacrylate ) ( super glue ) and then squirt it with the accelerator . You can then sand it as soon as it dries which is about 2 minutes. I dry it with compressed air and it’s instant, no waiting. Danny