12v car fuse box?

[ssj4jarrod]

Im planning now, To start building my tear in the spring, Im in Canada and I'm building outside so it gets cold(Understatement) LOL. But my question pertains to using a automotive fuse box? Could I, There would be more than enough fuses/recepticles. And use car audio style cables for the battery and main fuse,like run 4Gauge positive from the car after the solinoide to my trailer, then a Main switch, Then a 60amp AGU style car audio fuse through 4Gauge to the car fuse box in my raceway? And likewise run 4Gauge ground from my TV to my TD battery? then 4Gauge to the car audio style grounding bolck? And lastly how would I add a amp and volt meter? Thanks for the help.

[Aaron Coffee]

This is what I used. It is designed to be an add on fuse box that is ignition switched. I just wired a toggle switch in place of an ignition switch, this switchs the power on and off via a relay.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70117
No problems yet.

[ssj4jarrod]

Another quick question. If I'm running dual batteries in my car now, would I need another solenoid after the second battery or a new dedicated solenoid for my TD? Would all three batteries need to be the same? Or would I do better just leaving the charging in my TD to a charger? Thanks

[ssj4jarrod]

Sorry another thought, I would probably be asking too much of my stock alternator to keep three batteries in check? Its a 1992 Honda accord with a OE alternator, I believe shes a 60 or 70 amp unit.

[Miriam C.]

Quick Question: Just how much power do you need in your TD? If I read this right you are trying to run 3 batteries???

Your car needs a battery (2?). Your TD needs a deep cycle marine or RV battery and you seem to want to charge the TD battery from the car. If I have that right you need to look at your wiring more that the alternator and soleniods. You will not likely be using power in the TD while under tow, just charging or maintaining.

You can check with the auto dealer about extra electric needs. Ask what your tow package really needs. A suggestion---don't suggest to them as they may need a sale................

Be sure to post lots of pictures and details too please.............

[hugh]

Hey, I'm in Winnipeg also. what are you shooting for spec wise on the TD as in length, width etc. Plus for electrical needs what will you be running once it's built. I equipped mine with 110 and 12 volt. Instead of adding an RV battery I picked up a 700 amp battery booster from Canadian Tire when it was half price. With 5 12V lights inside and a car stereo it doesn't last long though. Come spring a box on the tongue with a RV battery is on the list.

[ssj4jarrod]

Im shooting for a 6'6" wide by 7' or 8' long. 4' - 4'6" in height. My electrical needs will be minimal. 10A for stereo/dvd, 8A for amplifier, possibly 15-20A for lighting and 40A for sockets. Im also thinking of some power windows, power sunroof/possibly manual? my sunroof is 35" by 54" at the mounting flange glass is like 42" by 28" its huge!


I can't wait to start!!


The reason my car has 2 batteries is because Im running 3 12" subs off 3 360watt rms amps and a 340watt rms for the speakers.

[wlooper89]

Im shooting for a 6'6" wide by 7' or 8' long. 4' - 4'6" in height. My electrical needs will be minimal. 10A for stereo/dvd, 8A for amplifier, possibly 15-20A for lighting and 40A for sockets. Im also thinking of some power windows, power sunroof/possibly manual? my sunroof is 35" by 54" at the mounting flange glass is like 42" by 28" its huge!


I can't wait to start!!


The reason my car has 2 batteries is because Im running 3 12" subs off 3 360watt rms amps and a 340watt rms for the speakers.

That sounds very good although it is a lot of amps for a trailer. Most folks get by on 25-45 amps split between 3 or more DC circuits. #10 gage wire or less can handle everything except maybe the converter to battery charging connections. I used #10 wire for battery connections and charging with a 25 amp converter.

12V lights are normally less than 1 amp each and I only needed 6 in my trailer, two in cabin that are designed for reading, two in galley and two outside for porch lights. Almost forgot, there is one more, a utility light in my electrical compartment.

DC outlets will usually not use very much current either unless you plan to use some of the larger DC appliances, that will kill a battery quickly. My laptop computer, Coleman rechargeable lanterns and cell phones are about it. For things like a microwave oven or electric coffee maker AC hookup works best or use a propane stove for all cooking needs.

Some converters have a built-in panel for both DC fuses and AC circuit breakers. I would go with the WFCO 25 or 45 amp model for what you have described. This saves a few dollars over separate fuse and CB panels.

Otherwise a marine type fuse panel might be better for a trailer than an automotive one. The latter uses the car body or frame for ground while in a trailer most people use separate ground wires back to the fuse block for each circuit and a converter fuse panel or marine type panel might be better. Just my opinion.

A converter can recharge the trailer battery while camping and also power the trailer 12V items. I think you will want to keep the tow vehicle batteries separate from the trailer battery for camping. But you could put in a battery switch in the tow vehicle to be able to separate the batteries in the car and use one for camping, saving one for starting.

Usually tow vehicle batteries are designed for engine starting and do not hold up well under repeated deep cycle as might occur camping without AC hookup. A trailer battery does not need to start an engine so deep cycle and total ampere hours are more important qualities, rather than cranking amps.

Sorry that got too long. Just a few ideas to toss out there for someone starting on a trailer electrical system.

Bill