Intro

[Lawnjockey]

I just found this site the other day and it is good to find other demented people. My interest in teardrops stems from my long distance driving between Tenessee, New Mexico and California. I usually travel with my dog and I am realy tired of Motel 6. (can you imagine what is on those carpets?) I tend to push myself hard doing about a thousand miles a day and as I get older I am starting to get a bit sleepy too often. It is time to start being safer and take more rest stops. I am usually driving a Jeep Wrangler or a F250 pick up, neither is comfortable for napping. In the desert I just pull off and camp but that isn't safe in places like Arkansas or the other banjo playing states. A teardrop seems to be the answer.

I made an ATV trailer a few years ago out of 1/8th wall 2x2 square tubing which will be the base. The trailer is high clearance for towing behind the Jeep offroad. I used a wire feed welder making it and I have noticed a couple of welds that need some attention due to poor penetration so I purchased a stick welder. While I am at it I will lenghten both ends for the base of my tear drop.

My teardrop will be a quick and dirty tin top woody. It will not have a galley hatch or galley. It will be a simple sleeping space for me and the dog.

That said, I still want to do a workman like job. I am planning on using marine ply. For the sides I will screw two sheets together, lay out the curves and cut on the band saw. Once cut and cleaned up I will separate them and epoxy on one by backing around the edges using west epoxy (I have a bunch from boat building projects). Then using a router with a pilot bearing bit I will trim the one by using the previously cut plywood edges as a jig.

Once that is done I will clamp the sides together again and cut notches for the top suports. I am going to use one by oak for top supports. The top will be "cold molded" in place by screwing and epoxying thinner sheets of marine ply over the top in two or three layers. The top will the be covered with thin galvanized steel, primed and painted.

Door(s) and windows will be routed out and fitted. I have some old bronze port holes (portlites for you boatbuilders out there) that I will probably use.

This is a faster, cheaper, better project except that I will be splurging on good plywood and using good epoxy and stainless screws (stuff left over from boat projects).

Jocko

[madjack]

Welcome Jocko...sounds you have a pretty good plan going into this...ya know we just love the pics and hope you will take and share with us as your build progresses...any questions, just ask away......
madjack

[bobhenry]

Jocko

Welcome to the insanity !

Had a couple of thoughts as I read your post.........

Is there a real need to extend the frame. You can cantalever 12 to 18 inches front and / or rear with a lightly built floor.

Are you real sure you don't want to rethink the rear hatch. I built a 3x6 cargo trailer for my motorcycle and it was handy as a pocket on a shirt to haul with. That little trailer hauled live chickens, firewood and camping supplies to the campground, A 55 gallon drum of water, chicken manure for the neighbors garden, and I don't know what else. The messy stuff went on a big doubled over tarp and it cleaned out real easy.

Your hatch could be left partially open with a light bug screen net or a canvas tent material for a bit more cube while sleeping. If you change you mind about a galley it would be an easy addition later on.

It just seems a shame to have to redo all that nice sheet goods and rethink after the fact..

Just my 1 cent worth ! ( discounted 50% for what it is really worth)

[Lawnjockey]

Your point regarding the hatch is well taken. I have thought about using alumnium rather than steel so that at a later date it would be easier to cut a rear hatch out. If I spend just a little more time laying out the one by re-enforcing on the sides and top converting to a hatch at a leter date would be fairly easy using a laminate cutting router, that is if I use aluminum.

I am in Tennessee now and I have three trips back to New Mexico satrting in mid January so I have a bit of a time crunch.

Extending the trailer shouldn't be too hard since I am going to do some wprk on it anyway. I am thinking about getting a couple of pices of 1/4 x 2 bar stock and sistering them on to the exisiting side rails of the trailer. Then I can clamp the extensions on thus keeping the extensions straight. I have seen too many trailers that have kinks in them where they were extended. I should be able to eyeball the side to side part and use clamps and two by fours to keep it straight. I may even break out the tape measure.

The toughest part of the project is going to be cleaning out some space in the shop. If the wife sees me cleaning she will know something is up.

Thanks for the welcome.

Jocko

[Classic Finn]

Hello Jaakko greetings from Finland, Its nice to have you here in the International Playhouse This is the place to be 24hrs a day. Eat, Sleep and Breathe Teardrops.