need help w/weekender design

[critter]

hi all,
was wondering if anyone could help w/design of weekender that could be slid in &out of my 5x10 mesh floored trailer w/11 in sides.would it need to built on skids? would like to build out of 2x2 so i could use more insulation.will be using when i dont have any help to set up my large pop up. was planning on heating with my mr buddy heater conected to 20 lb cyl and camping in cold.

[Chris C]

Hi critter,

Sounds as if all you need to do is scale the body to fit inside your trailer dimensions and just build the box and slide it in. I personally don't think you'd need to make many modifications to the body...........other than making sure the structure is solidly attached at all joints. It'll have to withstand being manhandled in and out, so racking is something you'll want to avoid. I don't think skids would be necessary, but maybe someone else could comment on that. Good luck on your build.

[critter]

thanks
i was thinking the 2x2 construction would be less likley to rack and the skids would help w/sliding in &out. do you think it would be strong enough to carry kayaks,ect on top?

[Chris C]

If you were qualified to build a teardrop capable of carrying kayaks on a regular trailer, I don't see why it wouldn't carry them if it were on a temporary trailer.

[angib]

I'd second Chris's comment on the joints - make sure both the sheets of ply is firmly attached to each other via your 2x2s at every corner. As you take it on and off, the body will get some wracking and strong joints will prevent it being damaged.

I don't think you need much as skids - even 1x material laid on its side would be enough - you don't want them too wide or too soft, as either would cause too much friction.

One thing to think of right at the start is how you're going to move it and so where you need strong points that can take the push or pull forces.

Andrew

[WoodSmith]

I'd set it up so that there was a spot to put a lever under the front to lift it up high enough to put a pair of rollers (like rolling pins) under the two front corners. I'd also have a place in the back corners of the cabin into which you could slide and pin in some legs. (Like trailer hitch reciever tubes.)

So to get it off the trailer, you park the trailer basically where you want the cabin to be. Unbolt all your fastenings, lower the tounge, insert and pin the back legs. As you raise the tounge back up, the legs take the weight of the cabin off the back of the trailer. Pry up the front and place the rolling pins in thier spots at the front of the cabin. VERY slowly pull the trailer out from under the cabin. Just before the rollers come off the back of the trailer, stop. Use your lever to raise the front of the cabin and put cinder blocks or another set of legs under the front. Pull the trailer the rest of the way out and secure the cabin.

You may need to have a tree or other anchor to tie the back of the cabin to to keep it from sliding, but I'm guessing that the legs and rollers would do it.

[goldcoop]

Critter-

First off WELCOME!

I missed something, why do you want to slide this thing on and off?

I assume its so that you can still use it as a utiility trailer?

Are you going to be taking it on/off alot?

Maybe a series of caster balls along the outside side edges on the trailer frame to correspond with the skid runner idea you had? Then maybe a manual cheap hand crank winch for when you need to yank that sucker back on?

I dunno?!

Cheers,

Coop

[angib]

VERY slowly pull the trailer out from under the cabin. Just before the rollers come off the back of the trailer, stop.

Or, just after the the rollers come off the back of the trailer, swear liberally!

This logic will work well on any weight of slide-in. However I wonder if you just built it lightly, whether you couldn't just push and/or pull it on and off the trailer. Kiss.

Andrew

[Cutterpup]

I don't see any problems with rollers or even casters but I do have one small eleven inch problem. That is just what are you going to do about the door height?

trailer w/11 in sides.

That being said/asked good luck

Dan

[madjack]

I don't see any problems with rollers or even casters but I do have one small eleven inch problem. That is just what are you going to do about the door height?

trailer w/11 in sides.

That being said/asked good luck

Dan

...a little like an aboveground pool...climb up and dive in
madjack

[critter]

hey guys,
thanks for all the replies.yes it will be removed for utility use once in a while,also later on i my build a trl for it,as for the 11 sides thought about building on 4x4 skids & attach w/screws that way it could be screwed to trl later, as for parking it i will slide it off in my barn w/ a little help from my friends.back on w/winch. as for walls i was thinking 2x2 frame w/3/8 ply ext.,insulation &1/4 panneling on inside.whaddaya think?

[goldcoop]

Critter-

Sounds BOMB proof and heavy! If you build light like Andrew suggests it would be a heck of alot easier to load and unload.

I built my Ctear (which is 6'w x 10' l x 5' h) out of 2"x2" stock and 1/8" Melopi plywood skins inside & out.

After I had the thing completely skinned and attached to the frame I discovered I needed a certified weight of the just the rolling chassis for PADOT!

Bummer! But after I removed the 10 attachment bolts I was able to single-handedly lift, slide and ploop the thing off the frame!

Granted you do have the 11" side rails to contend with, but I was able to work the body of mine up and over the 12" high wheel wells without alot of problems...

Maybe just 2" x 2" skids with Nylon strips as runners?

Cheers,

Coop

[critter]

cool,
sounds like 2x2s is it.dont know where i can get nylon though.just looked at the desert dawg,now thats what i had in mind.but no fiberglass.

[WoodSmith]

Or, just after the the rollers come off the back of the trailer, swear liberally!

Andrew

Ok Since this is a family board, we can install an "Anti Swearing Cable" (ASC) after unbolting the fastenings. This cable attaches between the cabin and the trailer and is short enough that it will not allow the cabin to pull off the back of the trailer. Does that make you happy Andrew?

You probably don't need the rollers to get it to move, but with an expanded mesh deck, it seems like there would be a lot of friction and/or wear as the cabin moved on it.

[John6012]

When I built mine I used 4" heavy PVC under the floor and I could roll it with ease out of the garage and in the driveway. Maybe that'll give someone and idea. I've cut and used 2" steel pipes to roll a heavy fireplace insert into the house and no problem.