Could there be THAT many lurkers?

[dwgriff1]

Hey Dave,

Here's one idea you could try

Kevin,

That one could be done as a wood stripper. Remember the wood strip CrissCraft boats and even early cars that were built decades ago?

Would it be worth the trouble? Not likely.

dave

[doug hodder]

sounds really interesting!!!...keep us all posted...I'm working on some wild ideas...but to do the profile I want...it'll be heavy with all the ply and epoxy....and I don't think I can still have it appear natural wood...probably going to have to be painted....I'm thinking about the wooden boat method of cold molded ply over stringers....you'd have to build the frame first and then cover it in strips...lots of compound curves...too tough to hide without paint....Doug

[dwgriff1]

sounds really interesting!!!...keep us all posted...I'm working on some wild ideas...but to do the profile I want...it'll be heavy with all the ply and epoxy....and I don't think I can still have it appear natural wood...probably going to have to be painted....I'm thinking about the wooden boat method of cold molded ply over stringers....you'd have to build the frame first and then cover it in strips...lots of compound curves...too tough to hide without paint....Doug

Doug,

I don't think there is any end of the ways we could build one of these little hummers. Man the ideas just roll on.

There is a guy who builds pickup campers with round sides like on an Airstrem trailer. http://butlerprojects.com/

I figured one could even do the front of a rig like that, but use 1/8 plywood. If bent sideways that 1/8 stuff will almost bend in a circle.

A real compound form could be made in the wood stripper tradition, I believe.

That Geodesic Airolite Construction boat system looks intriguing. My father had a fabric covered airplane, and I got through an MFA in sculpture making sculpture that looked like they would fly (but wouldn't) with those airplanes, as well as kites and tents as guide.

There is no end.

dave

[asianflava]

I remember someone being adamant that the floor should NEVER be insulated, and that makes some sense. Besides, there is a 4 or 5" foam mattress to do a LOT of insulating.

I remember that post, but I think he said that it doesn't have to be insulated because there is a mattress that provides insulation.

[cracker39]

I went searching for posts with information on the reasons why not to insulate the floor and found it. It's in a post from a year ago and was stated by Cary Winch who builds the Camp-Inn Teardrops. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=1459&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

In particular to this subject, he said

"Here is one that should stir up some controversy. Never, ever insulate your floor. Unless you get out all possible air infiltration areas and air pockets you will have condensation form in the floor cavity. This is the most likely place in the unit. This will cause rot in short order no matter how well you think you have it sealed. This also goes for belly pans and some gravel guards people try to do. From a warmth point of view all teardrops have an insulated floor called a mattress. We use 3" thick foam mattress and that is good insulation that is in the cabin safe and dry. "

Cary makes a good point for TDs, however, his advice won't sway me not to insulate, as I won't have a mattress on the floor, and I do want to insulate the bottom of my TTT. I'll just have to be more careful to waterproof it. I will coat the floor bottom very well with a good sealer (probably roofing material) before putting it on the frame. Once bolted to the frame, I'll cement 1 1/2" foam insulation under the floor. I'll probably use an aerosol can of foam to put a bead around all edges of the foam for a good seal, then coat the foam with more of the same sealer I used on the floor. That should keep out water. Granted, it won't be easy, as I'll have to doo all of this from underneath the trailer, laying on my back, as the floor is already bolted to the frame. And, I'll have to inspect the foam from time to time to make sure the coating hasn't been penetrated by road debris and need recoating.

[toypusher]

I belive that the advice that Cary gave only applies if you are putting a bottom on the floor structure. If there is only one side to the floor structure (ie plywood over 2x2 frame) then there should be no problems with condensation. Or at least it will dry without causing rot.

[cracker39]

I believe you are right about that. He seemed to be concerned with leaving a cavity into which water could enter and become trapped, causing floor rot. That's what could possibly happen if I didn't seal the foam after affixing it to the underside of the plywood floor. That's why I'll take no chances with water getting in past the foam.

[asianflava]

My bad, I guess I remembered incorrectly.

I was specifically mentioned a couple posts down which is probably why I remember differently.

[madjack]

I believe you are right about that. He seemed to be concerned with leaving a cavity into which water could enter and become trapped, causing floor rot. That's what could possibly happen if I didn't seal the foam after affixing it to the underside of the plywood floor. That's why I'll take no chances with water getting in past the foam.

Dale, Cary was talking about condensation in any type of dead air space between inside and outside and about the danger of bellypans trapping and holding water in the floor...in other words, the premiere comercial TD builder in the country, working/designing out of Wisconsin, does not use/recommend insulation in the walls or floor...go figure
madjack

[Cary Winch]

You guys got it right, I am concerned about the cavity not the insulation. It isn't the fear of water getting in, that of course would be very bad too, but rather air infiltration. Normal day to day thermal cycles will cause condensation to form in the cavity if you give it a place to go, especially a flat surface like a false floor bottom.

If the insulation is a hard foam board and tight to the wood then no condensation will form and you are safe like I see BG doing on his. Or better yet use it as a composite floor like AsianFlava did. Then you have extra strength, insulation and light weight.

There are ways to do it if you need to. Traditional tears don't need to though. Then again how many here are traditional? I would still stay away from it if you can.

Cary

[rianael]

Sometimes lurking is just practical for those of us who can't seem to remember the many different userIDs and passwords that we have. If I just have something kinda fun to share, it is not worth the time to go into my email, doing a search, and hoping I come up with the confirmation email which tells me what my userID and password is. And automatice login is not always an option for those of us who "sneak read" at work. <g>

[angib]

I know I've posted it here before, but it's easily good enough to repeat! If you're thinking of compound curves in wood, marvel at the Tryane:



Three 1.5mm (1/16") layers of ply cold-moulded and epoxy sealed. There are more pics, including the male mould, here.

Stunning.

Andrew

[doug hodder]

Anjib....now that's what I call cold molding!!!!! I get worried about dinging up the boat....I'd hate to think about repairing that one...good post....Doug