Center of Gravity-Does it matter?

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Center of Gravity-Does it matter?

Postby aprazr56 » Sun Feb 07, 2010 4:44 pm

I have been reading this site for a while now and still don't know which way to go with my 5x8 tilit utility trailer. I think it would be great for converting to a TD, but the wheels are directly in the center.

I think I read somewhere on here that the wheels need to be more toward the 'rear' of the TD...is this a fact or just a simpler way to get it to tow better?

I really can't do much due to a back injury, but am willing to try (soon as it warms up enough-lol) and am looking at all the plans offered here. GOOD selection guys!

I will be using my Jeep Wrangler to pull it, 4 cylinder/automatic, so does THAT have any bearing on what I build on the trailer I have?

I may have posted this in the wrong place or re-posted (my mind is getting a bit slow these days-lol)

Any help....VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

Gregg White
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Postby caseydog » Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:15 pm

The main thing you have to do is maintain positive tongue weight, but not too much tongue weight. Too little, and you will have sway issues. Too much, and you will damage your tow vehicle.

Wheel placement effects tongue weight. But, you can also "balance" the trailer by how you place things inside the trailer.

On a teardrop, most people put the axle/wheels behind center, because the galleys can be heavy. A heavy galley and wrong axle placement will cause the tongue to be too light. Having the axle back some also leaves room for doors.

On a utility trailer where moving the axle is not possible, you can plan your placement of things to keep the proper balance, instead of balancing with axle placement. Obviously, if you CAN move the axle, that would be ideal.

As for your tow vehicle, just make sure you don't exceed the manufacturers towing limits, and you should be okay. If you don't already have one, I would add a transmission cooler to your Jeep's automatic transmission.

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Thanks for the info!

Postby aprazr56 » Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:33 pm

CD,

Thanks for the info. I had NOT thought of the 'galley' weight. I read, read, and re-read topics but just never found this answer (not that it is not there-lol) I just could not find it.

The axles CAN be moved, but that seems to be a lot of trouble(Heavy duty trailer-3,500 towing lbs weight).....but hence, that is what makes a TD, I guess.

I am thinking at this point of just getting a 'topper' for a pick-up, extending the side rails up about 18"(they are already 15)" so the total height would be about 60" or less after adding the 'topper' to it. Then build the inside from there.

I won't be going any 'long' distances...probably 15-20 miles tops. I just had a new radiator put in 3 months ago(Heavy duty), so I hope it won't matter there, as well. I have restored this 97 Wrangler about 98%....not much left to do except add a TD or something to camp in...behind it.

Just still trying to find the 'right' plan for the trailer as I hardly ever use it & seems a waste since I have it not to utilize it for camping, somehow.

THANK YOU very much for the info. I wil make up my mind one of these days, soon (I Hope-lol)

Gregg
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Postby Newman39Fan » Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:53 pm

Please Please Please look at your tow rating before going any further. You say you have a 4cl 1997 Wrangler. The tow ratings at trailer life dont go back that far, but a 1999 4cl has a tow rating of 2000lbs. So if you are starting with a 3500lb trailer you already need a new tow vehicle.
see more info at trailer life - http://www.trailerlife.com/towratings/t ... p.cfm#jeep
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:35 am

Get a Harbor Freight trailer. They are not that expensive. The axle is easy to move, and your towing experience should be a whole lot safer.

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Postby Arne » Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:52 am

Tongue weight is critical... where the weight is in the trailer also is. The best place for weight is just forward of the axle to get the correct tongue weight... the further from this point the weight is, the more sway you will get.

On my number one, the weight was at the rear (galley) and at the front (a/c unit), with the rest in between... It was not a problem towing it, but if I moved the steering wheel back and forth, the trailer got a mind of it's own and took 2-3 oscillations to get back behind the car... never dangerous as the minivan out weighs the trailer... but not good, either.

On no. 2, I tried to concentrate more weight at the back, so I could move the axle back further... it worked out ok. I can still get it to oscillate, but it is not as noticeable...
www.freewebs.com/aero-1
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Trailer rating - not weight

Postby aprazr56 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:00 am

I may have posted this in an un-readable manner. My trailer is 'rated' for 3,500 lbs. It does not weigh 3,500 lbs. It weighs about 500 lbs. empty.

More & more I am thinking of just adding the 'topper' idea, but really would like to build a TD, but with back injury, I can not perform everything I need to by myself.

THANKS for all your replies. I will decide soon.

Gregg
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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:53 pm

I know most folks already know this, probably better than i do. 2 major components of a TV tow capacity are horsepower and wheelbase. Jeeps can have lots of horsepower, but can have pretty short wheelbases. That is why they are only 2000lb towing capacity. A heavy load would wag the jeep all over the road.
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