Need help on interior and galley finish!

[Siouxgirl2]

I soooo frustrated. I have interior skins/cabinets and galley cabinets that had a little water damage when I got this partial built tear. I have been removing some mildew and cleaning the wood but will need to hide slight imperfections in the wood so I went to talk to the paint guys about what to use to seal, hide imperfections and protect the wood. They told me use a solid deck stain so the wood grain would show but hide the imperfections. They said it was rated for exteriors and would protect from UV etc. (for the galley). They suggested it would seal and I wouldn't have to varnish. Great... I thought.

I bought it and then realize that it is exterior grade and it isn't safe for interior surfaces and the chemicals and fumes in a cozy tear cabin would not be healthy for me or my daughter. RATS! I already bought the stuff. Then my husband says I should maybe not have an exterior product or any product in the galley that isn't safe for being around food. Now I'm really confused about the best approach for the galley and the interior. Exterior paint has the same health hazards and shouldn't be used in the interior but I want something that will protect the wood and not hurt us.

I've already spent a bunch of money on this stuff but my husband is adamant that I shouldn't use something toxic in that enclosed of an area with his wife and daughter. What should I do? I've looked on here and all I find is confusing information.

Ideas? I'm headed to Sherwin Williams tomorrow and hope they may have something to assist me. I need advice and knowledge.

Loyal

[Muggnz]

perhaps you seal it afterwards, with varnish or something similar, to lock in the fumes.

[dmckruit]

It would depend on how its applied. If the parts that you are going to paint are detachable and can be removed from the tear prior to painting, I think you will be okay. You can coat the pieces and allow to dry, then reinstall in the tear.

I don't know what brand you bought, but I pulled a Flood MSDS and the main hazard is the fumes from the mineral spirits. However, once the paint is fully dry most of the vapors will be released already. Just leave the windows open a bit for a few weeks afterwards.

I used a polyurethane varnish on mine and did it the same way (applied the coating and installed later), and I don't have any problems.

The only other solution would be a latex based paint.

Hope this is helpful.

[Miriam C.]

I used Polyurethane on mine. Truth is I am not going to put food on the surface anyway...........

As for the expensive stuff----------take it back and get your money. Educate the person who sold you an outside treatment for inside.

As for hiding---We have had members to Poly. over fabric and over wall paper. You can also put frp, Formica type stuff or even veneer over the problem issue.

[Siouxgirl2]

As for the expensive stuff----------take it back and get your money

No returns because they tinted the stuff and they put a sticker on it saying no returns.

I can't varnish over it because it has a wood seal already in it and they told me that it would repel the varnish.

Loyal

[DMcCam]

Hi Loyal, Just about all exterior grades of paint or stain 'gas out' within the drying period. If it’s oil based it oxidizes, water base and varnishes evaporate. Once dry, they are basically inert. The concerns I would have are that most of these products are matte finish and will mark up easily. And, if your wood is bare, they may not actually dry for months.

What finish is currently on the wood? If it’s some sort of varnish, then you’ll need to prep the surface to give a ‘tooth’ for the new paint to adhere to. They make tinted or colored varathane that might work better depending on your surface. You might think about doing a little test area with whatever finish you want to try.

I can hear my brother the cabinet maker, “take it down to bare wood and start over with a new stain and finish, less problems in the long run.â€

[Siouxgirl2]

Thanks Dave,

The wood wasn't treated yet. That is the issue. The guy was building but didn't treat before he installed the wood or cabinets. He didn't quite finish the cabinets and stopped working on it do to life circumstances and it sat. It has been sitting unfinished for 1 1/2 years and is dry and also had spots of mildew starting.

It is pretty much bare dry wood at this point with some water markings but it is installed and can't really be removed easily because it is all attached to a steel tube frame so I have to do it and open the doors.
I am hoping that it won't off-gas after it is dry but that is what I'm wondering. I heard they are full of fungicides etc. that aren't good for closed quarters and that is the concern. I do have a spare piece of the wood that I got from him that I was going to test it on before putting on the tear. Does that help. THanks for your input.

Loyal

[DestinDave]

I believe you certainly don't want to use deck stain on the finish, interior or exterior. Any deck stain I've ever used is a semi-opaque liquid (linseed oil) that leaves a residue on the surface that eventually flakes and peels. Think of very thin paint or varnish with some paint tint in it. And even in full sun it often stays tacky for weeks!

Do you know what kind of finish is already on the wood? If it's very thin you should probably consider sanding it down enough to open the wood to new finish. The water-damage can be cleaned up with wood bleach and then apply a fresh couple coats of gloss or semi-gloss polyurethane. Once it's dry and cured it's safe for breathing and even putting food on. If you're still concerned about the counter top and food safety, consider a coat of epoxy (like bar-tops) on that surface.

jmho...
Dave

[Sawyer]

I've been very happy with Varithane products. Easy to apply, has very low fumes, it dries quickly, and it holds up really well. If you do use this product, buy standard water-based Varithane for the cabin, and water-based Spar Varithane (includes UV inhibitors) for the galley. I used the Spar Varithane as the exterior finish for my woody, and it has held up perfectly for going on 2 years now through every kind of weather possible...

If I were you, I'd argue to get my money back on that deck stain. If they knew you were going to use this on the inside of a camping trailer, they never should have sold it to you...

[Siouxgirl2]

Any deck stain I've ever used is a semi-opaque liquid (linseed oil) that leaves a residue on the surface that eventually flakes and peels.

You are correct because that was the selling point. They said it would put a protective oil back into the dry wood that would be helpful in Arizona dryness, whereas, paint would not. I didn't think about the peeling and tackiness. They asked if I wanted a premium or not and thinking it would last... I got the premium. I could try to argue it but I'm not optimistic since they stamped it non-returnable.

How is varithane different from polyurethane? Are they the same or different?

[Cliffmeister2000]

Hey, Siouxgirl2, congratulations on picking up that trailer! I was second in line, and you beat me to it! You got a great deal!

It's expensive, but CPES will protect the wood, then you can paint. Or, you can use clear varithane over he CPES.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

[Siouxgirl2]

Hey, Siouxgirl2, congratulations on picking up that trailer! I was second in line, and you beat me to it! You got a great deal!

Thanks Cliff. I am excited to move it along but I didn't mean to bump you. I passed the CPES stuff on to my husband. That sounds like a great product. I didn't expect him to be so involved in trying to pick the product and worried about the toxicity but he is being very protective of myself and his daughter I guess. He is having me do lots of looking into VOC's and stuff and is being very cautious about them. He said, he doesn't care if I have to redo it in a year or spend more money on it... he doesn't want us sleeping in an area with extra toxicity so now we are evaluating EVERYTHING. I think he is on his way to a dealer in Alaska to ask them questions about it as well.

Are you going to the gathering at Usery pass in a few weeks? I don't have a tear yet but I would love to be able to come for a few hours and meet some people and see other people's tears here in Arizona. I'm not sure if I can do that or not. I live pretty close to there and would love to go after my daughter's piano concert that weekend. Anyway, just wondering.

Thanks again,

Loyal

[Cliffmeister2000]

Are you going to the gathering at Usery pass in a few weeks? I don't have a tear yet but I would love to be able to come for a few hours and meet some people and see other people's tears here in Arizona. I'm not sure if I can do that or not. I live pretty close to there and would love to go after my daughter's piano concert that weekend. Anyway, just wondering.

Yup, the Mrs and I will be there, along with some really sharp teardrop builders! Come on by!

[S. Heisley]

Loyal:

I think I'd try to take the product back to the store and explain to them that you need a product for inside and that the product you were sold is for outside and not safe for inside usage. I think I would say something like: "the salesperson must've picked up the wrong container". It's worth a try.

I certainly wouldn't want to use exterior deck stain on the inside. I use the stuff on my fence and haven't found it to be very long lasting, either.


Are we going to see up-to-date pictures of your tear eventually?

[aggie79]

Thanks Dave,

The wood wasn't treated yet. That is the issue. The guy was building but didn't treat before he installed the wood or cabinets. He didn't quite finish the cabinets and stopped working on it do to life circumstances and it sat. It has been sitting unfinished for 1 1/2 years and is dry and also had spots of mildew starting.

It is pretty much bare dry wood at this point with some water markings but it is installed and can't really be removed easily because it is all attached to a steel tube frame so I have to do it and open the doors.
I am hoping that it won't off-gas after it is dry but that is what I'm wondering. I heard they are full of fungicides etc. that aren't good for closed quarters and that is the concern. I do have a spare piece of the wood that I got from him that I was going to test it on before putting on the tear. Does that help. THanks for your input.

Loyal

If the wood is bare, try using TransTint wood dyes. I like to use their tints that you dilute with water (although you may have to sand if the tint raises the grain on the wood.) The tints blend well and you can add more to certain areas if they remain lighter after the initial tinting (or if they are darker you can use water to lighten the tint.)

After the tint drys, the wood can be finished with a water based polyurethane. Sometimes, I'll use a base coat of shellac first, then finish with the water based poly.