Building The Atma Travelear Teardrop

[mikeschn]

Nice job on both the model and the mockup. Keep the pics coming!

Mike...

[nevadatear]

Dave, looks outstanding! My only question is did you account for the height o f the bed bed when testing it out?

[DMcCam]

Hi Guys, Wow, thanks for all the great comments!

S. Heisley
Did the two of you lie down inside it on the patio to see if you were comfortable sleeping in it together?

Yep, we got in and laid down in our normal sleeping positions (and sides of the bed) right there on the concrete. There was plenty of room too.

AussiePeej
Hi. I've been a lurker for a bit and normally wouldn't post on someone's build thread but just have to say.. this design, your model and mock up. There are some brilliant people on here, and I've learnt, and been inspired heaps, but I am really enjoying watching this thread. I reckon, judging by your preparation, this is going to be one fantastic build. Can't wait to see the sawdust fly

Cheers
Craig

Me too!

nevadatear
Dave, looks outstanding! My only question is did you account for the height o f the bed bed when testing it out?

Hi Debbie and Randy, I hope I've taken it into consideration. I want to try a make shift bed to make sure.

More to come...

[John T. Hodgen]

Hey Dave,
You have MAD SKILLZ. I think that the galley grafick would make kool door/drawer pulls, also the side profile of the head. Any machine shop with a waterjet could do those for you and your side name placure. Even may bee able to cut out your side-spears. Yea, I know, I've watched to much "American Chopper"!!
I really think this build will be one for the books. Can't wait for future updates.
Til later by the fire--John T. & Linda

[gullywompr]

Hey Chris, that's a little tiny image to work from. If you find that the profile is what you want, I can output it as a vector or as a large image file with a grid. Just let me know what ever you would like. Been a professional designer for about 33 years; makes it easy to help friends.

Cheers, Dave

Dave, you wouldn't happen to have a grid image of the full size 10' profile, would you?

[DMcCam]

Hi John, Yeah baby, I'm planning on having all the graphics either laser or water jet output for the exterior! For the door pulls, I'm looking for vintage aircraft or trailer mid thirties if possible.

Hello Curtis, Sure do have the profile for the members here. Just click on the links below sir.

Download large jpeg image here:
http://www.vulcaniavolunteers.com/TEARDROP/ATPROFILE_4X10.jpg
Download vector/windows meta file image here:
http://www.vulcaniavolunteers.com/ATPROFILE_4X10.wmf

Regards, Dave

[gullywompr]

Many thanks, Dave.

[DMcCam]

I've been working on the plans for the AT and would really appreciate everyone's feedback on the section plan. I'm going for a light strong build that can be towed behind a Honda Element (our hopefully new to us car).



What do ya think?

Dave

[Ageless]

I'd reverse the floor layup; put the 1/2" on the bottom

[Kixwy2]

Best. 3D Teardrop Render. Evar.

My only thought would be that since plywood doesn't really come in 1/2, 1/4. 3/8, etc... it's always a little shy, even on cabinet grade, so you might be able to go with a thicker bottom sheet for more underbelly protection.

[Ageless]

Another option to the carriage bolt would be to use T-nuts on the topside of the floor and a standard hex bolt and washer from below

[bbarry]

I'm going for a light strong build that can be towed behind a Honda Element (our hopefully new to us car).

What do ya think?

Dave

Great looking diagram! You're thinking things out ahead of time, which you'll appreciate during your build, I promise!

If you're looking for light, I'd nix the 1/2" ply for the exterior skin and go with 1/8" for both interior and exterior. That's what I did on my build (with a 3/4" ply frame and foam insulation) and with the aluminum over the top, it's all the strength I'll ever need. 1/8" ply is quite sturdy when properly braced. If you absolutely can't stand the idea of a skin that thin, you could split the difference and go with 1/4".

Also, I'd make certain that whatever plywood I got was exterior grade. That way, if (when?) there is ever a little bit of water intrusion, your plywood will hold up as long as possible.

Will you be epoxying the entire shell? If not, make sure you epoxy at least the bottom 6" or so of the wall where the end grain is exposed. This is muy importante!

Nice work...looking forward to sawdust!

[John T. Hodgen]

Hey Dave,
Well you asked so....I think for a light build you should go with 1/4 birch as you have designed. For even lighter,like I did, I used 3/4 insulation and stick frame wall construction, with 1/8 luan both in and out. I still can FEEL the "Costta Lotta" behind Linda's Impala, but not so much behind my Jeep XJ. My floor is just 1/2 ply on 2x2 stripping, painted on bottom with just Linoleum on top. In 21 degree weather couldn't tell it wasn't insulated, actually we had to crack the windows because it was soo well insulated. I don't know what the the total weight is but I tried to build it as lite as possible and its been great. Now I find that building the stick side frames where REALLY time consuming, my next one will be drawn out on 3/4 ply and use the cut outs for doors, shelves, and drawers. Then fill the gaps with insulation and skin it. Its a STRONG camper and with you adding Alum to it I don't think so much thickness is needed.
As with all things Teardrop, its all what you'll be happy with. As Doug says..your the only one camping in it. Plus going lighter than you have drawn up will save money in the build but still have the quality your working towards. Just another opion for you to chew on--bon appeitit
Til later by the fire--John T. & Linda

[aggie79]

Dave,

I plan on towing my teardrop with our CR-V, which I believe is the same drivetrain as the Element.

For a sandwhich floor, the 1/4" ply top and bottom is plenty. That is what I used. Actually, 1/8" top and bottom will be more than strong enough to sleep on, but you'll have to be careful about stepping on the floor during your build.

For the walls, I used 5/16 engineered flooring (plywood) on the interior because I like the looks and don't like finishing wood. The exterior is 1/8" plywood to be covered with aluminum. With the 1/8" glued to both the wall framing and insulation, it is quite rigid.

My roof and ceiling are both 1/8" plywood.

As far as framing, I used 1x2 poplar for the floor framing - 3/4" thickness horizontal. My roof is 1 1/2" plywood ribs cut the profile with 1x2 poplar on edge. Although my build relies on adhesives (PL Premium), I used poplar because I used screws to "clamp" the materials until the glue cures. (Poplar holds fasteners better than pine.)

For the walls, I used 3/4" plywood as the framing. I have not stick-built a teardrop, but I really think that for profiles with complex curves, the plywood framing method is much easier.

Tom

[DMcCam]

Gee guys, 1/8" on the floor?