Welder ?

Ask questions about Harbor Freight trailers, or questions about building your own...

Welder ?

Postby kirkman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:30 pm

I asked this question before. I just don't want to screw up and get the wrong welder. I am going to buy a MIG welder and my question is do I really need 220 for, lets say welding nothing heaver than a trailer frame. I would prefer a 120 welder because It would be more practical. I could use it any where. I also don't have a 220 outlet and would have to make a long cord and run it through the basement window to plug it in the dryer outlet. Which would limit me to welding in the middle of my driveway. What do you all think? HELP! :?

Thanks !
Jason
"If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito." -- Dalai Lama XIV
User avatar
kirkman
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1270
Images: 55
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 11:42 am
Location: Elmira, NY

Postby ajricher » Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:43 pm

After wearing out a Lincoln SP-125 Plus I just went out (today) and bought a Hobart Handler 140. it's a well-thought-of machine that is capable of welding up to 1/4"(multipass on heavier steel) - more than you will typically do in a trailer chassis.

Now, i am not a pro weldor (Dad was) but if you want a MIG the price and performance on the handler 140 is quite good - and they're made in the US.
ajricher
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 114
Images: 4
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 2:05 pm
Location: Northeast US

Welder

Postby LarryW » Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:39 pm

I've got a Lincoln Weld pack 100. I've used it on my boat, big old steel trawler, and in my back yard for the last 10 years with no problems, except that I don't have enough amperage in my garage to run it wide open. So I use my Honda generator and I have used it to build several trailers and a lot of work on my boat. So don't sell the small welder short. Just remember that the thicker the metal the more passes it takes but it is doable.
LarryW
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:49 pm
Location: Richmond Va
Top

Postby ajricher » Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:52 pm

Funny you mention the old Weld-Pak 100. I started with one of those and eventually graduated to the 125 because I needed more power for thicker sections on Land-Rover chassis repairs.

I still have my 100 - I keep it set up with .025 wire for sheet metal and fine work.

On a more general note, the figure I go for is 1 amp per thou of thickness. This means 125 amps for 1/8 " and so forth - it's a good rule of thumb or at least it has been for me.

Alan
ajricher
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 114
Images: 4
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 2:05 pm
Location: Northeast US
Top

Postby chorizon » Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:16 pm

Have you read the sticky on welding? It is very informative. The 2nd page deals a lot with peoples' choices of welders.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=23778&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

IIRC the general consensus for a MIG machine was that the "in the know" guys wouldn't recommend welding a trailer together with a 110 machine.

I don't have much experience with a 110V MIG, but I will say that I wouldn't trust the welds to hold up on a trailer. The best I could adjust the machine to weld say 1/8" steel would be probably OK in a static situation, but definitely not on something that could potentially cause something catastrophic (knock on wood) should a weld fail, i.e. a trailer bouncing down the highway at 60 mph.

Hope this helps...
User avatar
chorizon
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 871
Images: 94
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:44 pm
Location: Austin, Texas
Top

Postby doug hodder » Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:46 pm

It's sort of one of those things...all the tools/power in the world don't amount to much if you don't know how to use them. I'm with Larry...the 100 is a great little welder, and while I've not had any of mine "officially" inspected, I haven't had one fail on any of my frames. I do build in new material however, none of it over .125. Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby mwallace61 » Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:49 pm

Miller makes some nice little machines that will run on both 120 and 220 by simply changing a built in plug. As others have said, running it on 110 would require you make more passes.
mwallace61
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:05 pm
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Top

Postby flip18436572 » Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:17 pm

Are you planning on doing a lot of thicker material welding?

Or are you planning on welding one trailer and then a lot of little things?

If you are going to do a lot of thicker than 1/8" material, go for the 220v machine. But, look at the specs of the machine. I have a 110 Hobart that I have welded 1/4" material for some people and they have abused the truck for about 10 years now with no problems.

Are you a welder by trade or understand how to get a good weld with a MIG welder? I have seen some pretty welds that I broke with one hit of a ball pein hammer, and the guy who welded it was amazed that it broke. He didn't have the heat or wire feed set to actually penetrate into either piece of metal.

For 99% of the people who have a MIG welder for home a 110 unit will work for them.
Last edited by flip18436572 on Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
flip18436572
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 172
Images: 1
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:03 am
Location: Southwest Iowa
Top

Postby Mike_La » Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:21 pm

I've got a Miller MIG(Millermatic 140) that is 115 volt and it does a great job.

I would think you could buy a less expencive welder to build your trailer. Try National Tool Warehouse or Northern Tools
Mike




"Believe you can and you're halfway there."
Theodore Roosevelt
Mike_La
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 600
Images: 71
Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 7:31 pm
Location: Louisiana
Top

Postby Lgboro » Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:34 pm

I purchased a small 110 made by Forney (Taiwan made) and after a few months of inconsistent welds I bought a Millermatic 140. Well worth the difference as I can weld much better than I thought I could. But I have never really liked to purchase cheap tools as they usually just either don't hold up or will not do the job.

(I splurged on a small Miller plasma cutter recently too but haven't had time to use it yet.)
User avatar
Lgboro
500 Club
 
Posts: 708
Images: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:57 am
Location: Dudley, NC
Top

Postby Larwyn » Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:54 am

I used a Weldpak 100 for several years and I know that it can be used to build a safe trailer frame, it can also be used to build a very unsafe trailer frame. Getting lots of practice on similar thickness material that will not be bouncing down the highway would be a good idea. The one amp per .001" thickness rule is a good one to follow too. I now use a Miller (Millermatic 180), though it requires a 220 volt outlet, I would never go back, the extra power makes things so much easier. Just my opinion based on my experience as a hobby welder.

Lgboro, you'll like that plasma cutter. Just be sure your compressor supplies plenty of clean dry air and it will be like "cutting with a pencil".
Larwyn

Keeper of the Most Out Of Control Shop (2005)

I feel bad for the man that cannot spell a word more than one way. Mark Twain
User avatar
Larwyn
Mad Kilted Texan
 
Posts: 1658
Images: 210
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2004 12:06 pm
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Top

Postby kirkman » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:36 pm

Thanks guys for all the input! I really value you opinions! :thumbsup: Now all I have to do is suck it up and go buy one!
"If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito." -- Dalai Lama XIV
User avatar
kirkman
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1270
Images: 55
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 11:42 am
Location: Elmira, NY
Top

Postby Carter » Sun Feb 28, 2010 4:53 am

The local Community College has a bunch of 110v Hobarts that work fine on 1/8" material. Having said that remember that just because it is a 110v machine doesn't mean you can plug it in anywhere and have enough juice for it to operate properly. Millers specs on the 140 call for a 20 amp circuit. You may get by on less but be careful where you plug it in.

Jim
I need a new Avatar. I'd put my dog up there but she doesn't look much like me. She's the skinny one.
User avatar
Carter
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 319
Images: 32
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:45 am
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Top

Postby kirkman » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:07 am

Good point Jim ! :thumbsup:
"If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito." -- Dalai Lama XIV
User avatar
kirkman
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1270
Images: 55
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 11:42 am
Location: Elmira, NY
Top

Postby flip18436572 » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:13 am

Carter wrote:The local Community College has a bunch of 110v Hobarts that work fine on 1/8" material. Having said that remember that just because it is a 110v machine doesn't mean you can plug it in anywhere and have enough juice for it to operate properly. Millers specs on the 140 call for a 20 amp circuit. You may get by on less but be careful where you plug it in.

Jim


I have the Hobart 140 which is the 110v, 115v, 120v 60 Hz. It says it can weld up to 1/4" material. It really is a good machine, and I have gone through a few tanks of gas and a few coils of wire, without having to replace anything but a tip.

It can use gas or the flux core wire, and it can weld aluminum with some changing of gas and wire. I have never tried it on aluminum, but I know of one other person that has and he never had any problems.
User avatar
flip18436572
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 172
Images: 1
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:03 am
Location: Southwest Iowa
Top

Next

Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests