Check my young Montana logic

[claw73]

Hello everybody! I am thinking of building a teardrop-ish trailer and have thought it through fairly well (compared to the rest of my ideas) but want to run these thoughts past the bundle of brilliance on this forum.

First off, let me explain my situation and the reason for thinking of a teardrop trailer. I love camping and backpacking! I am in Montana so I have a plethora of places to be outside with breathtaking views, even Yellowstone is an hour away. Camping in campgrounds with tents or even backpacking in a few miles and camping is a blast and one of the best ways for me to relax. However, my fiancee does not appreciate the idea of camping in a tent in bear country. We both have less than great backs, her back has many issues, so an air pad or inflatable mattress is required when we both go out. When I look at needing an air mattress or other soft pad and hard walls around us, a small trailer sounds great. Since I drive a small suzuki vitara, a teardrop seems like the best option. From there, I looked at building for cost effective purposes as well as a great project. I already have a 4x8' Harbor Freight folding trailer that works great, but is no longer needed for the general carrying reasons I bought it for.

So, I know I want a teardrop, I know I want to build it myself, and I know I want it to be on the trailer. I started designing and researching teardrops. As a mechanical engineer, I drew up plans and checked that everything I wanted was satisfied. I want a drawer for an ice chest in the galley, a spot for some spare mini propane bottles, a counter big enough for a small stove, a spot for the battery, and a spot for some 5 gallon water jugs. So the galley is fairly small and limited. The cabin is 6.5 feet long, so I think a truck bed mattress should fit inside. I incorporated an 2 foot radius in the front and a 30 inch radius in the back (thus teardrop-ish).

Now the questions: Since I am in Montana, and building outdoors, I need to build it with walls and roof first to protect from the elements. Is this common or will it be incredibly more difficult? Since the whole design is fairly simple (no tv, speakers built in, etc. Just a few lights) I think building inward wouldn't be too bad.
I'm planning on spar coating the outside of the trailer for weather coating. While eventually I would like to put aluminum on, funds don't allow for an extra material purely for aesthetics.

So any comments? I'll keep adding posts as I think of things since this is already so long. Hopefully I can start building mid March and have it ready sometime in June or July.

[claw73]

By the way, I also want some type of window in the roof. Any tips? Should I do a 1foot by 2 foot window? Or has anyone bent a piece of plexiglass over the roof and thus had an entire roof of window? What are the complications/implications/other -ations?

Thanks everyone!!!!

[claw73]

Well until anyone speaks up I guess I'll just keep talking. I'm selling myself more and more (read fiancee really REALLY wants to see the stars in Yellowstone) on the lexan roof. However, I only want maybe a 2' by 4' piece across the roof in my flat spot. How can I best seal the lean up against the plywood that goes towards the front and the plywood that heads back towards the hatch. Any ideas?

Thanks guys. The longer you wait the more questions will be building up.

[Juneaudave]

Claw...MSU grad here, your in some fine country for teardropping.

Sounds real doable!!! Ya got the trailer and desire...time to start making sawdust. Maybe you can post your plans...

About seeing the stars...do they still have the salvage yard in Belgrade? Maybe you could scrounge a moon roof out of a junker?

Good Luck!

[claw73]

Haha, always good to make a connection. I do think they have the salvage yard out there somewhere. Would a pre-made sun/moon roof be easier to install and more leak resistant that a 4x4 sheet of lexan?

Also, this thought came to me. Has anyone skipped the framing and just made SIPs (Structurally Insulated Panels)? It seems like it could work, but mostly just a curiosity.

Thanks

[Cliffmeister2000]

Somebody on this forum has a Lexan roof. I would be more inclined to buy a window and install it where you want it. It gets both hot and cold in Montana! You would probably have to build a frame to make the flat rimmed window sit on a curve surface teardrop.

[claw73]

I saw the lexan roof, which gave me hope it is possible. The hot and cold bit...I'm much more worried about it getting cold in the teardrop than too hot. But at the same time, if it is still getting to 0 F I don't plan on going out and the plastic hinges could break! All in all I'm not too worried about being in the trailer when temperatures are too extreme.

Since I copped out on making a true teardrop, there is a section of the roof that will be flat. That is where I was thinking of putting some lexan but maybe a small moonroof would be the way to go.

Thanks

[steve smoot]

Hi there claw73,

There is a fellow on Ebay that sells plans of a teardrop with a screen roof and a roll type cover for bad weather. This may give you what you are looking for. The trailer is 4x8 and should be very lightweight.

My wife drives a Suzuki Vitara 4x4 with a rag top. She loves that little car. We are either butt deep in snow or mud, and that is just coming up our driveway...

Steve

[bobhenry]

By the way, I also want some type of window in the roof. Any tips? Should I do a 1foot by 2 foot window? Or has anyone bent a piece of plexiglass over the roof and thus had an entire roof of window? What are the complications/implications/other -ations?

Thanks everyone!!!!

Here is your window in the roof ......







It's a bit cool at -15 wind chill and the sun shine is your worst enemy in August. But laying there stareing at the stars or watching mother natures laser light show during an electrical storm is breathtaking.
The sight of watching a large snow flake actually land is kinda hypnotic too.

[bobhenry]

Now the questions: Since I am in Montana, and building outdoors, I need to build it with walls and roof first to protect from the elements. Is this common or will it be incredibly more difficult? ink of things since this is already so long.

My opinion ..... DO NOT close in the roof until the inside is complete. I took the lexan roof off not once, but twice. I would also leave out at least 1 spar. It is truely amazing what will not fit thru those doors. If you look in my album you will see I added luan paneling after running my electrical there was no way to get the sheets in other than thru the roof. Just tarp it at the end of the day if it wants to pocket water put a thin sheet of plywood , heavy cardboard or paneling under it. Mine was built in the driveway from April to late Sept . of 07.

[bobhenry]

Well until anyone speaks up I guess I'll just keep talking. I'm selling myself more and more (read fiancee really REALLY wants to see the stars in Yellowstone) on the lexan roof. However, I only want maybe a 2' by 4' piece across the roof in my flat spot. How can I best seal the lexan up against the plywood that goes towards the front and the plywood that heads back towards the hatch. Any ideas?

Thanks guys. The longer you wait the more questions will be building up.

Ice dam tape is your best friend. Make a letter C out of the tape sticky side out it will attach under the lexan and over the plywood. I would allow a 2 to 3 inch overlap of the lexan beyond the hole you have cut in the roof. Caulk around the edge with 100% silicone caulk before pressing down the lexan to the plywood. I made 2 distinct rows about 1 inch apart.
You now have 3 lines of defense against water intrusion but you arn't done yet. Screw the lexan down gently with a plastic washer at each point. I used the washers off of button cap roofing nails. Then apply yet another layer of ice dam tape about 2" wide covering the edge of the lexan and the roof plywood. Trim with wood or aluminum but leave weep holes for the water puddling on the lexan to drain. With aluminum flat stock I would miter cut the edges but leave a 1/8" gap at all 4 corners for drainage. With wood trim it would be easy to compound miter the ends so the tops touch but you are open at the bottom at each corner. Drill thru all and screw to roof supports below. Lexan and plexiglas must be pre drilled and screws must not be over tightened.

[steve smoot]

here is a link to ebay site for plans with screen roof....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Teardrop-Tear-Drop- ... 23058f1402

[Ageless]

As far as a foam core roof without spars; very doable. Remove the plastic film from the styrofoam so it bends easy. Get it in position and apply 2 layers of cloth inside and out. Cover the outer with sheet plastic and use a roller to smooth. When you peel off the plastic you will have minimal sanding for a real smooth surface

[claw73]

PERFECT!! This is the reason I love forums, great answers! The screen roof doesn't quite do what I want, since, as bobhenry pointed out, one of the best parts would be electrical storms and thunderstorms. Don't exactly want a screen roof in a torrential downpour.

Bobhenry, thanks for the great words of wisdom! I'm having a hard time picturing the ice dam tape and the "C" you make with it. I was hoping to have the lexan lay flush with the plywood for the 4x4' window. I was hoping to have some wider spars such that the lexan and plywood butt together, and are on the spar. Still I can see the caulking and the final layer of ice dam tape, but how does the first layer work?

Thanks everyone, I spent most of my class today doodling up frame drawings and the galley. I saw a link that was posted where someone made one box that was divided into parts for the galley and parts for the cabin. I am copying it very closely. I think this will be a great build as soon as funds are in and hopefully will be ready for main camping season!

[Shadow Catcher]

I am in the process of becoming familiar with 3M VHB tape. This is what I will be attaching the mounts for our solar panel with. It is viscoelastic and needs a non porous surface but is used to hold the sides on semi's and road signs... so strong stuff.