Check my young Montana logic

[claw73]

Here is another question: Has anyone made their own windows? I was thinking about it....and since I'm shooting for a cheap, custom trailer, why not? I would like to have something with a screen to block the bugs and easily opened, though I don't care how they open.

Thanks!

[bobhenry]

I'm having a hard time picturing the ice dam tape and the "C" you make with it.

Here is a real crude drawing....

The C is the tape folded back on itsself sticky side out. the little blobs are the 2 rows of silicone. lexan/plexi on top and the plywood roof below.

Does that help any ????

[claw73]

Bobhenry, You rock my world! That picture clears it all up perfectly. I'm wondering if the same thing would work if, instead of the plywood being on the spars, then the lexan on the plywood. Would it work if the plywood is on the spars via the same methods and then a large bead of silicone in the (hopefully small) gap between the lexan and the plywood? Then have the ice dam over the silicone and overlapping on each side of the plywood and lexan? I really would like the flush look without having the whole roof lexan.

Thanks everyone, especially you Mr. Bobhenry

[Kelleyaynn]

Can't help you with your build, but I wanted to say hi. I got a master's degree from Montana State in Bozeman. Mostly online, but I spent a summer there for it. I loved it. Camped in Yellowstone for a weekend. The Museum of the Rockies is one of my favorites.

I can see why you'd want a lexan roof in Big Sky country......

Kelleyaynn

[Ageless]

Windows? Certainly you can make your own. They sell all kinds of seals and weatherstripping. I'm having to make mine.

[bobhenry]

I incorporated small display storm windows in the doors of my tear,



These little windows were part of a 6 sided point of sale display. Each window had a different feature and were in 6 different colors to show what was available.

I purchased them at an auction of a mom and pop lumber yard closing. I think I paid $5.00 and got 6 windows mounted on a point of sale carrosel ( used it for firewood)



Yeah you caught me.... the green one is the right and the other pics are the left , and yes it is brown. To date none of the camping buds have noticed. While the frames are designed to mount flat on the outside I cut the hole just right to shove them thru from the inside and screwed them tight over a bed of 100% silicone. In this pic you can see the 3 tracks for the upper sash , lower sash , and the screen. All of which are obviously removable. We have a neich that mounts to this hole for an AC unit (window shaker) in the summer and of course this shot of the 14" pot belly stove for the January Shivaree.



I filled the void between the frame and the door with the same silicone and capped with a trim strip.

There are hundreds of these little displays in dusty corners of lumberyards and window shops everywhere you will have to ask around but they are out there some times for free but often for just a few bucks. They are too small to be of value to a homeowner but just right for our little trailers.



Here is the "Room addition " ( neich) for the pot belly stove. Have a similar one for the AC unit also

[bobhenry]

Bobhenry, You rock my world! That picture clears it all up perfectly. I'm wondering if the same thing would work if, instead of the plywood being on the spars, then the lexan on the plywood. Would it work if the plywood is on the spars via the same methods and then a large bead of silicone in the (hopefully small) gap between the lexan and the plywood? Then have the ice dam over the silicone and overlapping on each side of the plywood and lexan? I really would like the flush look without having the whole roof lexan.

Thanks everyone, especially you Mr. Bobhenry

The lexan works almost like wood. Cut it about a 1/16 th large and belt sand the edges till they just fit tight to the plywood surrounding the hole. It should flush up with the plywood. The ice dam tape over the seams and I can see no way out of a small trim strip of aluminum to secure the window. I can see ya going down the road at 60 MPH and sucking the lexan out of the hole. Perhaps a vinyl cover with push snaps would help divert some water and offer shade during the hot hot summer months.

In the 3rd pic in the post above you see a hastily taped on mylar survival blanket covering the roof of the tear. This pic was our 08 summer gathering in AUGUST. Hot Hot Hot even with the window shaker flat out it was an oven inside. You are smarter than I to limit the skylight to 2x4 foot or there abouts just be sure it is directly above you when you are laying down so you can enjoy the view.

Yes we still love our window on the world !

[claw73]

Thanks for the tips on finding cheap windows. We have a local lumberyard (Kenyon Noble) and when I buy my lumber I'll check if they have windows lying around.

I was planning on having a shade of sorts inside, incase a large RV pulls up next to us and it is changing time. Would that help with the heat? I'm wondering if a two by four that could lock over the middle of the lexan would help for transportation. It wouldn't help with the rain, but I feel it would be more sturdy than a vinyl and easier to store than a solid piece of plywood ( my other idea). The vinyl would perturb the airflow enough, I think, to stop a huge up force on the lexan, but I would rather put a solid piece of bracing over or something.

Anyway, I'm getting pretty stoked about this project. Just passed my PhD qualifiers so everything seems great right now...we'll see about next month

[claw73]

In addition to methods to lock down Lexan, I want to ask a question in here that I almost started going off on in another thread.

I plan on having .75" insulation around the walls and ceiling. What should I do about the floors? I was planning on raising the lowest piece of plywood off the trailer deck via 2x2s as seen in many other sites, but would it really be necessary to have 2x2s attach the trailer to the bottom plywood, 1x2s with insulation and then a top layer of plywood? Or could I affix a piece of ply straight to the trailer, add some 1x2 and insulation, then finish with another, thin piece of plywood (3/8"?)?

The coldest it got this winter was about -50 F with windchill, in which case I have no intention of being outside in a trailer of any sorts. However, in the summer, if Yellowstone or Glacier temps drop to about freezing, well that is normal. Thank you so much everyone!

[Ageless]

Most commom is to frame the floor with 2X2, use 1.5" foam and cover with 1/4" ply. A few have just laid down the foam on top of the ply and covered with carpet. Again, a few have simply laid down the foam and placed the mattress on top. So whatever works; each to their own.

Since I'm not building a tear; I'll have framed floor, 1.5" foam, 1/2" ply covered with wood laminate flooring

[Conestoga]

claw, I agree.. I look at everything Bob Henry and Ageless build and post, as well as a number of others. I love this place.

My ten cents...
I built a sunroof/stargazer for my first yurt. I didn't want to spend money on the typical dome, so I cut a circle out of cheap acrylic/plexiglass and fixed it fast to the top of an old tire. (Then I dragged the tire to the peak of the yurt and just the weight kept it there all nice and snug.) The glass eventually flexed perfectly flat and very a thin layer of water would lay on it, distorting the view. Also debris. I had to bump it up to get the water and stuff to run off and dry up.

So whatever you decide, try to enforce that the sky window has a good curve for moisture to drain off and less stuff will stick to it too.

I like the cover idea, there are also others who've posted tonneau type ideas...I'm watching and learning.

[claw73]

Here are the plans I've put together, in the all around beloved powerpoint cad software

My wall design: The flat area on top is where the lexan will be, either entirely or with a 3 inch gap on each end for the plywood to attach to a flat spot.


My floor design:


A rough Galley image:


I think I'm going to do a 1/2 plywood on the trailer frame, build my 2x2 frame on that with insulation, and then do a 1/8" plywood inside as the inner floor. Hopefully it is strong enough for people to be on it. That is why I added a few more cross members to the floor in the cabin area. Are these necessary? I don't want an obese teardrop that weighs more than the car.

This gives me a basic, well insulated teardrop. I may add a 12V outlet inside the teardrop initially, but I will have at least 1 outlet area piped with gooftube for wiring later if necessary.
Thanks for input!

[claw73]

Quick question I asked in another thread but I'll throw it out here. I want to seal the bottom of my tear completely so the insulation doesn't have an open surface. I'm planning on a 1/2" plywood sandwich on either side of foam insulation with 2"x2" struts. I plan on starting my build next weekend and the highs are in the 50s. I think this will be too cold to apply the black goo tar. Is there anything else I can use to seal the bottom of the tear? After the whole build I was going to epoxy the entire thing and paint it.

I asked about tar paper in the other thread, since this is what has been used on roofs beneath the shingles. Any ideas? What can I do when it is this cool? I need to get this done because I can do the rest of this build.

Thanks guys!

[bobhenry]

I plan on starting my build next weekend and the highs are in the 50s. I think this will be too cold to apply the black goo tar.

Thanks guys!

asphalt is spread on roofs year around. It seals roads year around. They simply warm it up. Put the gallon can in a warm corner of the house. By the wood stove or the fireplace. Maybe by the oven while the boss is baking bread or a cake. If she is real understanding in the oven at 250 but crack the lid. Then run it outside and spread it. If it is cool it will not be as tacky as long while the naptha diluates evaporate. Application only take a few minutes just pour out and roll with a heavy nap roller.

[claw73]

What would I do without you Bobhenry!